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G'day all,

New member here from south western Australia! (a mostly green and pleasant part of the country, compared to the typical outback people think of, with plenty of livestock and miscelaneous crop farming) Between myself and my English brother in law we have an interest and collection of vintage machines, among them are an Inter AOS6 tractor and my own McCormick Deering TD35 TracTractor! The TD35 is not very common in Australia, and I was pretty pleased when my dad phoned me to let me know he secured it at auction for me. (A very well known and respected bloke named Tony Palethorpe had passed away, he was an International man through and through and the clearing sale was massive.)

Anyway, she runs well enough and has a large "cocky kit" hydraulic blade fitted. It also has a truck radiator instead of the original, and as such can only run for about 30 minutes before starting to overheat, we hope to find a better radiator. Not much chance of finding an original at all here in Aus. Highlights of our mis-adventures with it so far include replacing the fuel pump gaskets with the wrong gauge of paper, leading to the engine trying to run away, me nearly getting it bogged nose first during my first serious use of it to clear scrub, the exhaust and part of the exhaust manifold snapping off at the point of an old weld repair, now fixed with gasket seal paste and a hose clamp.

Anyway, here's a few photos and a link to our YouTube video! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ja9d2dg6ghw

MiDt3ov.jpg

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Looking forwards to hanging around here and learning a bit more!

Oh and can anyone let me know which other International machines might have compatible parts for the TD35? My brother in law thought the W40 might have a few...

If anyone could tell me more about the TD35, any mechanical quirks and whatnot, it would be greatly appreciated!

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Welcome aboard Rusty !! Your 35 appears in pretty good nick, :) I like

This thread is a "must see" for any TD35/40 owner

http://www.redpowermagazine.com/forums/topic/59358-td40/

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RN

You'll probably get various suggestions for repairing that manifold.

One of which is dial up Lincoln's US site and check out Ferroweld.for exhausts. A neighbour has done some pretty fancy repairs with it. But it is bloody hard to find here these days.

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Gday welcome to the home of IHC and IH crawlers B)

she a bit of a ruffy but it runs OK and your having fun :D

think you will find plenty of TD-35's (even a T-35) now that you one, I think there are over 30 TD-40's in Australia that I know about so there is easy 3 times that of 35's, often I get told about another 40 that turns out to a 35.

some engine parts cross over with TD-40's WD-40's and early TD-14's. A early TD-14 starter will fit your machine, just need to make the factory spacer (I have a drawing) its a DelcoRemy 710.

the 35 in my mind was a lighter-cheaper ag tractor than the 40, some parts will fit, but you be best to find a 35 for spares.

o and I think that the radiator that you are looking for is sitting in my shed ;)

SeeYa

Jake.

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Your pommy brother in law wouldn't be named John and have a love of Massey Wallis tractors and singing like an angel ( according to his Nan) would he ?

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Yeah that'd be him ;)

Aussie TD-40 feel free to shoot me a PM if you know of anything I'd be able to buy and get freighted over here :D Being in WA means less territory for possible vintage machines compared to the east coast :( Thanks for the information!

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You must have set the timer wrong in the video for it to switch over so fast. You have probably figured that out by now. If you watch the timer while the engine is running on petrol you can see when to hold the decompression lever so the change over does not take place for another cycle to warm it up more. Probably not an issue for you but very important for us Canadian boys.

I also have parts for you but they will have to be smalls as I hate to think of the freight from me to you.

Your engine seems to start very well with the choke but do you know about the primer? I can see it in the third pic. If that is cleaned up and working it makes a world of difference starting after a long sit. A couple of pumps sucks petrol out of the carb and sprays it in the intake manifold. Do it before you start cranking.

Years ago I ran a D4 for a fellow that was very touchy about his undercarriage. He told me NEVER use high gear. It was his nickel so I walked in 4th, throttled back between job sites.

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a bit slow :huh:

did not say that there is a tractor attached to said TD-35 radiator :lol:

guess I could always put it in the next scrap run :ph34r:

SeeYa

Jake.

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You must have set the timer wrong in the video for it to switch over so fast. You have probably figured that out by now. If you watch the timer while the engine is running on petrol you can see when to hold the decompression lever so the change over does not take place for another cycle to warm it up more. Probably not an issue for you but very important for us Canadian boys.

I also have parts for you but they will have to be smalls as I hate to think of the freight from me to you.

Your engine seems to start very well with the choke but do you know about the primer? I can see it in the third pic. If that is cleaned up and working it makes a world of difference starting after a long sit. A couple of pumps sucks petrol out of the carb and sprays it in the intake manifold. Do it before you start cranking.

Years ago I ran a D4 for a fellow that was very touchy about his undercarriage. He told me NEVER use high gear. It was his nickel so I walked in 4th, throttled back between job sites.

Oh, my brother in law mentioned something about not touching it for fear of upsetting the fuel/air measurements and the engine running away on us etc etc.

(No doubt he will sign up to these forums now just to say EXACTLY what he said and why, and how he knew what is is and isn't ignorant about machines, but that was the gist of it that he gave me!)

I'm getting a manual mailed from the states, so I'll finally know what all of the grease nipples are actually greasing!

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I enjoyed the video. In an effort to reduce wasted hand cranking of my TD-35, after flipping the decompression lever I generally turn the magneto by hand until it engages so I don't have to crank the engine to get the magneto engaged. Have fun with the new toy!

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Does anyone have some good pictures of the decals for the TD 35? Specifically the T35 logos each side of the drivers seat, I need reference images if I'm to get some made up!

Got the manual in the mail, and Greasy John has memorised it and learned a whole lot he didn't know! (apparently you're supposed to switch it to petrol when you shut it down!)

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Some more mucking around with my machine today. Yesterday the "new" radiator was still leaking madly despite my brother in laws soldering efforts, but some time at temperature followed by a serving of Barsleak put an end to it, as long as the cap isn't screwed on pressure tight.

Then she refused to start, noticed a lot of petrol leaking around the carby so I consulted Greasy John and it was decided I had to replace the gaskets. Which went very well, considering I'm not used to tinkering with stuff by myself yet.

tHYKtHI.jpg

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All reassembled and running fine! (when I was trying to start it I didn't notice when the compression lever sprung itself off of petrol as I was turning it over which was why it wouldn't start, whoops!)

Also got some new plugs from t' int'net, they're much shorter on the internal and external compared to the old ones.

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New

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Old

And finally, got some leaking oil from the fuel pump oil sump, can anyone advise on this? I'm assuming there's simply a gasket in there that needs replacing...

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But with the "new" radiator (that Greasy John salvaged from a neighbors old P4 powered water pump) it looks like the days of overheating might be over! Looking forwards to doing some work with it, then finding the NEXT issue with it! (the hydraulics are VERY leaky, but it's a terrifying prospect looking into the PTO hydraulic pump seals or the hydraulic arm seals.....)

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Hay Rusty! Isn't it the way it goes!! One fix gets yu down the road to the next problem. One bite at a time! Looking good!!! By the way, that two piece spark plug is a real antique around here!!!

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Could anyone pleeeeease provide a good picture of the TD35 or T35 decals from either side of the drivers seat, I intend to get some vinyls made up for my machine. (I'm not so keen on the cost of getting them from the few US stores that sell them, and I don't care about the large McCormick one)

Next job is to figure out and fix the oil leak from the magneto coupling. Also I noticed a LOT of white, flakey stuff in the diesel fuel bowl, so we should probably take it off and clean it out....

I've bought myself an 8 tonne beavertail Volvo F7 truck to finally get our machines more mobile, not looking forwards to tracking the crawler up onto a beavertail!

And hey Grumpy, I would have thought with all these antique machines that two parter plugs would be common! My brother in law often scoffs at my desire to put new plugs in everything, he's rather take apart the old multi-part plugs and clean them up for authenticitys sake!

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Here is a bonus photo of it next to our Chamberlain 9G. I shifted a small bit of gravel from a washed-in culvet up the road (most rural aussie roads around here are orange pea gravel which our country has in huge amounts) with the bucket, the armstorng steering made me sort after just 30 minutes work, though it was nice reversing up the road in high ratio quickly to go back for more. The arms don't have a huge amount of depression in them, and the bucket catch is a typical bodge-job which requires a lot of shaking to unlatch. But good enough for hobbyist sized jobs! I also have a rain flap on the TD35, just because I like the silly look of them :) ALso seen is the "new" radiator my brother in law installed, we will need to adjust the bash guard to cover it completely.

Really need to get my brother in law to teach me how to weld and figure out how to fit a "bush rake" to the blade, would make for much easier and tidier clearing of blackberries. Thinking of some sort of tyne-brackets on the rear of the blade into which tynes could be slotted.

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Well their not T35 decals but just replace the "20" with a "35" and you got them. Attached is a picture of an original and of the ones I had made for my grandfather's T20 I restored. The new ones you buy nowadays just have a white block letter "T". The originals, as you can see, have a gold "T".

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post-8548-0-99248900-1456712640_thumb.jp

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Thanks so much for that Jeff!

Wow, will only cost me $50 odd dollars to get some made up by an Aus sticker maker, as opposed to the 300-odd I'd pay for a full T30 set from the US :)

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Hmmmm well a month on from doing that carby gasket, I go to start it and again it's breathing/leaking through the carby. Perhaps I need a thicker gasket, or cork instead of paper? Can anyone comment?

Here is a quick and dirty image showing where it was breathing from. The only other gasket material I have is some much thicker black stuff, looks like 4 or 5mm, and I'm not sure if this would throw out any measurements or anything. (remember, the diesel engine ran away from us when we used thicker gaskets on the fuel lifters!)

Brother in law guesses the float might be sticking also.

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Update - Getting remote user support from my brother in law, he thought that perhaps the carby needle that ought to be above the fuel float lever might be the problem. So I go and get some images of the rest of the carby and he's surprised to learn the full layout, wherein this nub (top left) is actually the striker for the float lever, I assume for when the engine wants to shut off of petrol entirely.

CW6jXQR.jpg

UPDATE UPDATE - Went ahead and made the thicker gaskets, and smeared some grease on them for good measure, stitched it all up again and after two priming swings she started first burl and happily went to diesel. Magic!

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Gday welcome to the home of IHC and IH crawlers B)

she a bit of a ruffy but it runs OK and your having fun :D

I think there are over 30 TD-40's in Australia that I know about so there is easy 3 times that of 35's, often I get told about another 40 that turns out to a 35.

o and I think that the radiator that you are looking for is sitting in my shed ;)

SeeYa

Jake.

The TD-40 was directly replaced by the TD-14 and the TD-35 was approximately replaced by the TD-9

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G'day all,

New member here from south western Australia! (a mostly green and pleasant part of the country, compared to the typical outback people think of, with plenty of livestock and miscelaneous crop farming) Between myself and my English brother in law we have an interest and collection of vintage machines, among them are an Inter AOS6 tractor and my own McCormick Deering TD35 TracTractor! The TD35 is not very common in Australia, and I was pretty pleased when my dad phoned me to let me know he secured it at auction for me.

Interesting looking plumbing around the operator's station - appears to be 1" water pipe and fittings!

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

There are a now a list of reprint service manuals and parts books available for the TD-35 here in Australia or online

I have a list so send me a PM and should be able to help you.

Regards from Michael Halsall (Melbourne)

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Can anyone comment on the steering clutch compartment, had a good look under the rear end for the first time and there's no nut in what I assume is the drain hole. There's some oily sludge trickling out, so I can only assume this means some of the gear housing oil is getting through or something. Wondering if this will ever cause issues on a retired machine. Hoping we never have to go into the clutch cases ever anyway, but then again a lot of my machine is like that. We never want to think about poking around because there's no guarantee that bolts won't snap or irreplaceable seals won't break!

Edit - Thanks Michael, I actually got one from the US on ebay for less than $50AUD which was good :) Lubrication chart is handy, found many grease points thanks to it (though no doubt some haven't seen grease in years, and others are probably broken or seized...)

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Here is a FREE PDF Download I found on the "General Gear" (Tractor Parts) website - It is the engine and chassis parts list for the T-35 & TD-35 TracTracTors

http://www.tractorparts.com/PDFs/MCCORMICK_DEERINGTD35_Parts_PART1.pdf

http://www.tractorparts.com/PDFs/MCCORMICK_DEERINGTD35_Parts_Chassis_PART2.pdf

Regards from Michael H. B)

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Thanks very much :D

Planning on making the overpriced COPY of the McCormick diesel engine service manual I have bought available online when I can scan it in.

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Keep track of the time, paper, and ink it takes you to make the copies. Then compare the cost. Remember, your time is not really free, unless you're retired and sitting in a chair whittlin. Then making copies becomes work and takes away from the whittlin.

D

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You misunderstand me, I mean scanning in a copy then putting the digital file up for anyone to download, 20 minutes work at most!

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The only problem I see with doing what you all want to do is copyrights. You need to look and be sure there are no copyright marks still present from someone. If it is not copyrighted, then I see no problem. If it is copyrighted, then you'll potentially have a lot of problems.

D

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