1020 Head on 1460

[806 Southern In 0]

Wondering if any of you have experience running a 1020 head on a 1400 series combine. I'm looking at a 1020 head that was on a 1600 series combine. My understanding is that the potentiometer would have to change to mate up to the 1400 series combine. Any advice? Thanks

[MAGNUM 0]

andy, my buddy has a 1440 with electric controls and it has a 1020 on it, i might talk to him tonight, and ask him about changeing that, an let ya know maybe tomorrow.

did ya see my post about the tractor pulling club screwing us this year?

talk to ya later,jeff

[Aaron 0]

Andy I do think the potentiometer has to be changed. Don't know from experience but just from reading over at Harvesting.com. I would give the dealer a call and ask what it costs. They may be able to tell you the one on there is the right one possibly if you don't know, if at a consignment sale etc... I still like the cable control better but I don't think there is a way to have both on a comine unless you made some kind of box to hook the cable to with your pot. cable. Still wouldn't be the same response the cable has but would save a guy changing over a head.

[806 Southern In 0]

Jeff, any information would be appreciated. There are a couple 1020s coming up for sale here so I'm trying to do a little background before the are sold. I sure wish the 1460 would handle a 25 footer as I watched a very nice 1997 25 1020 sell for $8500 the other day. Bryants Deere dealership sold out couple weeks ago and the neighbor's 1680 and both heads were on it. The 1680 was a 92 with 3700 hours. Completely rebuilt from ground up in 2001. Thing went for 23,000. Someone got a bargin that day. I saw your note about the pulls. Most pulls around here are on a weekday evening so I don't have any problems making them. I'm not going to pull much this year as I'm going to be more tied up with farming.

Aaron, our old 1440 was a cable machine and never had any problems. I'm new to the electric machines so I'm learning a little right now. You have a good point, need to stop in and talk with my parts buddy and see what they cost.

Thanks guys for the replies.

[red_reaper 0]

Aaron, the pot. was operated by a cable on my 1020. I have a cable operated 1460 and I found a 1020 that was allready setup with the cable style header control to fit early 1400's The pot. that was removed off the head so this kit could be installed was cable operated,the cable was about 2-3 ft. in length and hooked up just like a 820 cable control right by the throat hole. If I am thinking right a pot. should only have two wires,so fitting it over shouldnt be a problem,unless I am missing something.

[George 2 0]

806 Southern Indiana: If your 1440 is 1980 build or older you have to buy a cable kit from your dealer to adapt the 1020 to cable operation. If your 1440 is 1981 or newer with electric auto header you can use the 1020 as is. The only thing you need is a different connector plug to adapt the 1020 plug to the receptacle on the combine. My old 1460 was electric and had the plug on it changed to match the plug on the 1020. That was all there was to it. And it worked really well compared to the old 715 and 820 cable setup. When I sold the 1460 and bought a 1660 no changes were made. i just hooked it up and went to work cutting beans.

[Aaron 0]

red_reaper Posted Today, 11:18 AM

Aaron, the pot. was operated by a cable on my 1020. I have a cable operated 1460 and I found a 1020 that was allready setup with the cable style header control to fit early 1400's The pot. that was removed off the head so this kit could be installed was cable operated,the cable was about 2-3 ft. in length and hooked up just like a 820 cable control right by the throat hole. If I am thinking right a pot. should only have two wires,so fitting it over shouldnt be a problem,unless I am missing something.

Don't know much about what is what as this is my first time with an electric combine. Always hear guys talking about changing the pots etc... I am planning on running my 820 cable on the 1660 and will have to change it over to electric but thought it would be nice if a guy could use a box like you were talking about to just keep the original cable and hook the combines pot cable to it.

George what do you like about the electric over your old system on the 715. I know the plugs a lot easier to use but the old cable is right there in response. I know Cliff likes the cable system too so just was wondering if there are ways to improve the response on the electric.

[binderpower856 0]

806_S_Indy...let me know if you come up with a part number to convert a 1020 for use on a 1460. I have a potentiometer laying around (NOS) that may be what you are looking for. I'll send it to you if it's the # you need.... I've got no use for it, and the C-IH dealer won't take it back...

Bill

[806 Southern In 0]

Bill, thanks for the note. I will check and find out and let you know.

I checked on one of the 1020s yesterday and found I was just a bit too late. It just sold early this week. I hate that feeling when you realize you just missed one **** of a deal. It was a nice 89 model with 3 inch cut and fore and aft. Can't use the fore and aft on the 1460 but figure if I buy a fore and aft header it would help on resale if I ever part with it. Got a couple more to check on. This head had a round 3 pin black plug on it that I think was already set for a 1400 series. . The head was hooked to a 1660 and the mating plug on it is a Deutch gray colored 3 pin that would not mate to this one. The head was at a dealer and they were simply using the 1660 to move the head around.

[binderpower856 0]

One recommendation if you do get a 1020 head. Whatever you do, DON'T buy a 1.5" cut sickle. They are total garbage in my opinion. Our first 1020 was quick-cut, and all we did all season long was sharpen guards to try to make it cut. It wasn't too bad in beans, but you can almost "break" bean stems without even cutting them and still get them in the header. Milo was a nightmare with the 1.5", becuase some of the larger stalks couldn't hardly get in between the guards. It flat would NOT cut wheat whatsoever. We had to borrow a head to cut wheat with until we finally converted ours to 3" cut. That made a header out of it... That 1020 was a '88 model, and we still used it up until last year.

Bill

[red_reaper 0]

Bill, I am suprized to hear you say that. I sold my 820 that I had a Crary Golden cut system that used a three inch section and a double gaurd.(making it a 1.5"cut) It would flat out cut wheat like a hot knife through butter and you didnt get any shatter loss to speak of in beans. This year I went to a 1020 and installed a new IH sickle setup. and it is full 3" It wont do half of what the Crary did as far as quicker cutting so you could go faster and not lay the beans over and shatter has doubled with the full 3" cut. I have a 10 times better header than the 820,but I can honestly say the Crary is much much better. I have never ran the 1.5 inch sections,so that may be the difference.

[boog 0]

Kristen,

Take Bill's advice. I've had an 820 & a 1020 with the 1 1/2" cut. Switched the 1020 to 3" cut, made a completely different head out of it. 2nd 1020 head we bought had 1 1/2", switched it to 3" before ever taking it to the field. Just traded for a 30' 1020 & it has the 3"

If you buy one with 1 1/2" & switch make sure you go to a higher speed pulley on the wobble box drive. Next to the fastest cpms (600 I think). 1 1/2" use a 4/450 cpm.

boog

[boog 0]

Kristen,

I just talked to our CIH service manager. According to him the 14 series combines take a different pot. than the 16series. He said there are 3 different pots available & would need more info to know which one is required. He also said that if your 1460 is one of the earlier electric models there would be some modification to the face plate (pretty simple fix - a hammer is the best modification tool according to him). If you need more help let me know.

boog

[red_reaper 0]

Boog, the part no.s will probably be different because of some mounting changes,and the pot. will probably be the same basic pot just different wiring plug or mounting hole. The 820 pot was mounted on the end of the header and the 1020 was mounted on the throat hole. I wonder if the Crary system was superior to the IH 1.5" cut? It still used the 3" section,but had an extra point that stuck half way out in between the regular points.

[Jon 0]

We have the Crary system on one of our 1020 heads and the CaseIH 3" sickle on the other. I can't honestly say I've seen any advantage to the Crary system at all. Another thing is that the Crary guards are more expensive than the CaseIH guards and our dealer usually doesn't have very many in stock so. When we rebuild the Crary header cutterbar next time around, we will probably go back to the CaseIH guards. And as for what everyone has said about the CaseIH 1 1/2" sickle, yeah they are a joke.

[boog 0]

Kristen,

His comments were "there are 3 different pots available", take it for what it's worth. I do recall several years ago when we went from the 1660 to the 2366 we were having trouble with the platform height control I was talking to him & he asked me if we were using the same 1020 head we had on the 1660. When I told him no, that the head we bought had been on a 2166 he made a comment about the pots needed for the 2xxxs were different thn the ones for the 16xxs

[binderpower856 0]

I wonder if the Crary system was superior to the IH 1.5" cut?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

A dull axe would be superior to the IH 1.5" quick-cut sickle.....

Bill