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Safe HP for 1566


jdetig

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The pump shop is going to go through my pump next week. Hopefully that fixes my problem. Can they set the pump for a certain HP or does the tractor have to be on a dyno to know for sure? What would be a safe HP to set my tractor at? The radiator is being tested and cleaned right now so cooling shouldn't be a problem. This tractor does tillage work and NH3 application. I have new 18.4x38 tires and duals with fluid in the insides. I was thinking 10% over stock would be fine, so 175-180?

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X2 what Lyle said. Glad someone is thinking with there head. Doing the rad. Is smart. Make sure the injectors are checked also. They will run way more, but will not live if you doing tillage work!

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Had a man tell me at an auction once in the 1586 it would withstand 225 HP before the transmission would give trouble. He pulled an IH model 800 flex frame 9-18 plow. I would think that with the small rubber you will not be able to get enough traction to shred the transmission. Was never dynoed but our 1586 had to be 200ish . Now the IPTO drive line....... that may not last forever

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I think you would be better off leaving the pump stock and getting some 20.8x38 tires (unless you need narrow tires). You can hang enough weight on a 1566 to make it pull alot. I don't know how much is safe though. Thx-Ace

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All of our 15s had 20.8 duals. Black stripe66 and two 86. The one we had the longest was a beast.

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Oh man what kind of work did you do with it? If it's running 300 on the dyno. then your engine h.p. Would be above that by probably 25 to 30 h.p.

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Oh man what kind of work did you do with it? If it's running 300 on the dyno. then your engine h.p. Would be above that by probably 25 to 30 h.p.

I normally figure 80% of engine at pto. That puts it near 370 engine.

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The ball bearings in the final drive is the weakest spot on a 15. There are four of them, two on each side. Not really called a bull pinion but in same spot coming out of the differential to drive the drop down gear and then on that drop down reduction gear. We replaced a lot of those ball bearings with the flat roller bearing as used on the largest 4 wheel drive IH that used that same final drive. Only had one major failure with the ball bearings but it ruined a whole lot of parts including the adaptor housing so that scared out a lot of people. If you keep tires and weight within reason, you won't have problems. If you load it down, turn up pump, crunch as with all of them. Remember, your tires are your SLIP CLUTCH.

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300, and don't tell me it won't work because ours has ran like that for 25 years, never even had to pull the valve cover.

The stock pump completely maxed out won't make near 300hp and the cooling would never keep up, try again...

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The pump shop is going to go through my pump next week. Hopefully that fixes my problem. Can they set the pump for a certain HP or does the tractor have to be on a dyno to know for sure? What would be a safe HP to set my tractor at? The radiator is being tested and cleaned right now so cooling shouldn't be a problem. This tractor does tillage work and NH3 application. I have new 18.4x38 tires and duals with fluid in the insides. I was thinking 10% over stock would be fine, so 175-180?

Have them set it 10% over then get it on a dyno when you get it back and check rpm, timing, and HP, like you said 180+-HP will be perfect, you might also have to adjust the bottom screw in the injection pump as it controls how hard the tractor lugs (torque rise). Just because it makes 180hp on the dyno doesn't mean that it won't fall on its face under load.

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300, and don't tell me it won't work because ours has ran like that for 25 years, never even had to pull the valve cover.

The stock pump completely maxed out won't make near 300hp and the cooling would never keep up, try again...

I know of one 1466 stock pump stock turbo 317 on dyno. 966 305 on dyno 1566 set at 325 the factory pumps make 300 pretty easy if all is good

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300, and don't tell me it won't work because ours has ran like that for 25 years, never even had to pull the valve cover.

The stock pump completely maxed out won't make near 300hp and the cooling would never keep up, try again...

It has a Bosch MW inline on it. Just estimated hp based on number of turns of the pump screw. And the cooling does keep up, have pulled a 25 ft disc with dmi crumbler in 95 degree heat, gets to the mark before hot but never gets past there, and if it would I would just put a 1586 radiator on it.

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Also it has no TA cause with that power there is never a need for one. Could get even more HP if we ever put a intercooler off a 4386 on it and a 3LM turbo. If I said it once i've said it a thousand times, increased HP doesn't shorten engine life if you do it right and maintain it good.

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I will agree with ihman, you can have 350 hp if you want and if your smart it will live, here's where I will disagree, if a 1566 has 300 plus hp. And your using that power continuously I guarantee it will not live. The drivetrain will not take it and the cooling system can't keep up. Now that is if your using all of the power you have. For example, we had a 7140 that was strong, pulled a 28 ft. Field cultivator and it would do it all day, but you could also keep shifting up and it would pull it but could not keep the exhaust temps in check and the cooling temps would rise. Also remember if your engine can take it the trans. Fluid is going to get hot which is not good either.

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300, and don't tell me it won't work because ours has ran like that for 25 years, never even had to pull the valve cover.

The stock pump completely maxed out won't make near 300hp and the cooling would never keep up, try again...

I know of one 1466 stock pump stock turbo 317 on dyno. 966 305 on dyno 1566 set at 325 the factory pumps make 300 pretty easy if all is good

A STOCK pump-injectors-TO4 makes 317hp LMAO

You guys need to tell us your pump and cooling secrets as around here 200hp in a 2wd just spins runs hot and smokes.

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YEAH. I have a 4386, stock DTI-466 except for a 3LM, and it probably makes ~240 engine (no PTO to dyno it) That's enough to put the EGT up into the 1300-1400 range real easy if you don't watch it! Water temp is OK, but its got a way bigger radiator than the 2wd tractors.

Maybe some of those Dynos got an extra 100 added to the gauges somehow! :rolleyes::D

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I will agree with ihman, you can have 350 hp if you want and if your smart it will live, here's where I will disagree, if a 1566 has 300 plus hp. And your using that power continuously I guarantee it will not live. The drivetrain will not take it and the cooling system can't keep up. Now that is if your using all of the power you have. For example, we had a 7140 that was strong, pulled a 28 ft. Field cultivator and it would do it all day, but you could also keep shifting up and it would pull it but could not keep the exhaust temps in check and the cooling temps would rise. Also remember if your engine can take it the trans. Fluid is going to get hot which is not good either.

You nailed it. Having extreme horsepower and using that horsepower are two different things. Horsepower is work being done, not what it is capable of being done. I think you would have to go over ten miles per hour to use 300 hp on a 15 .

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