Jump to content

TD6 Dozer/Loader


Recommended Posts

Folks,

 Just checking in. No progress on the old TD6. Wait a minute its the same age as me!

The machine hasn't moved since this spring. Time to get it fired up again just to keep things moving and steering. Next year the local tractor show has international as the feature. Humm maybe the TD6 should go too?

Regards,

 Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Folks,

Maybe will at least do a walk around the old TD6 and see if I can get some ambition to do something on it? Maybe charge the battery and see if it would start? Too many projects not enough time. This one needs less talk and more action!

Hope things are good in Red Land!

Regards,

 Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Folks,

I did accomplish a little on the TD6. Sorry no pictures:(

Charged the battery, filled the small gas tank with fuel, opened the diesel fuel shut off and cranked the starter over. Nothing! checked the carb drain port for gas. Dry.  I did this twice and then remembered that you have to pull down the gas lever to get gas to the carb! That helped, next time I cranked it she fired right up.

If you remember I have to do the starting dance with this machine. Standing out near the starter using a cheater bar to engage the starter switch! While reaching though into the cockpit to hold the gas lever down. Once it warmed up on gas I then reach over the loader arms and bring the diesel lever forward to add some fuel, while letting the gas lever up. She balked a couple times and then caught on diesel.

I was glad I got it running and decided to move it and check the steering clutches. And glad I did as many have said here they need to be used every few months or may get froze up and not release. We sure enough the Right steering would not work for a few minutes, Finally got it broke loose!

I drove back to the slab pile an pushed some wood around. On the trip I used both the steering clutches, and brakes to make sure they worked!

I did try to pull back both clutches and YES the tractor stopped! I slowly would let them forward to see when they engaged and it is about 4-6 inches from the complete free position. So I guess there is not much use pulling them back any more than 6 inches or so, to get the clutch disengaged. Tapping the brake is the key to getting it to turn!

Pulled it back up onto some 6 x 6 blocks and proceeded to shut it down. When I moved the diesel lever to off and the gas lever to on it stalled. Got off and tried to start it but it would not fire on gas. Went around to set the choke and found that the petcock on the bottom of the carb had fallen out and luckily was captured in the little funnel under the carb! Put that back in and she fired right up on gas. Made the switch back and forth to diesel/ gas several times and let it cool down on gas.

All In all another successful TD6 adventure.

I also brought the hood into the shop and tried to straighten the left rear corner of the hood, which had been crushed and folded over. Some of the metal could not be saved, but most of it is back looking more correct

Regards,

 Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Always nice to accomplish a little something :)   Like they say---  it's not how much you do , But how good you do it !

Somedays I must be pretty darned good cuz nothin gets done .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good stuff Chris. About turning, they nearly always require a brake to do it. Have to stop the track, or else it is luck if there is enough drag to make a turn. Pull clutch enough to disengage and hit brake and around it goes. There is a second steering technique for downhill where you pull the opposite handle and let that side accelerate past the track that is still driving. I don't use it often. Levers can be confusing as it is. Also be aware of high spots and low spots. Never steer over a low spot. You want the middle of track on a high spot. It will turn on a dime. Over a low spot the idler and sprocket are supporting the machine and suffer great stress when turning like that. Essentially, if it struggles to turn you are doing it wrong.

Have had the carb drain petcock fall into the drip tray on the MD more than once. <_<

No need to up the diesel before change over. Switch, then raise throttle. Otherwise it will try to foul spark plugs. There is plenty of time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kevin, M Diesel, Folks

Thanks for the tips and encouragement too. I will try to remember to turn on a high spot. Makes perfect sense from the recliner, harder to remember from the rough seat of a shaking and clackingTD6!:)

Switch over: Maybe I am not warming the engine up enough on gas? Guess I will have to try. But when I release the gas lever, the engine will start to die, like maybe 3-4 seconds to make the switch, does that sound right?  

I also really need to figure out what is wrong with my gas lever linkage and why it wont snap over center and stay locked? Mine looks likes the linkage has been welded for some reason??? Any good pictures out there? Anyone else have this problem?

Then I need to fix the starter switch ( wont make contact except with a three foot cheater bar forcing it) and mechanism so it works from the cockpit. I don't really like starting this with out being at the controls.

I do have some pictures from today, like everything else just have to get the ambition to go down load them and post.

Regards,

 Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Folks,

 Some static pictures of the TD6.

Worked on this corner of the hood which was crumpled!

DSC06414.jpg

Just setting around. Drove it up on some 6 x 6's for the winter. Just about time to tarp it again.

DSC06415.jpg

DSC06416.jpg

DSC06417.jpg

Track slack

DSC06418.jpg

I did stick a lawn mower seat in there to see if it would work for next event.

DSC06420.jpg

I placed a block of wood in each of the foot wells. Worked better for me. I cant get my big clodhoppers in and or out of those areas.

DSC06421.jpg

Just resting.

DSC06422.jpg

Regards,

Chris

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Chris

   The switchover lever should be the same as in the foto. The problem might be that the frictions in the bellcrank need adjusting. They are behind the domed shaped thingy at the cross shaft.

IMG_0014.JPG

 

The starter linkage has an adjustment for setting the switch distance.

mike

IMG_0013.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mike,

 Thanks for both pictures! I will try to check this out tomorrow. I have not checked the friction areas, will try to find them. Weather is supposed to be better.

I have adjusted the starter linkage once up a time. I think the problem may be inside the switch contact?

Regards,

 Chris

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gary, folks

Well I was sleeping in the tree stand today and decided I needed to come home and work on the TD6 starter.

I have a bunch of pictures. (will have to get them posted). Took out the three bolts for the starter. That is not a easy task!

Had to remove the two fuel lines. Then a vertical fuel line and a valve body. Then cut out the angular brace from the frame to the radiator support. This brace was not in good shape anyway and was bent in towards the engine. The starter is now out. The switch on top is not in good shape, the internal contact is worn very bad and that's why it did not start easy.

The starter is a model number 1108940. I have searched a little but have not found a switch yet.

I have a local shop in Erie that I may take the starter to and have them go through it. What do you think? I could take it apart myself. There was a lot of dirt built up under the cover band. cleaned off the caked mud grease and oil.

Any suggestions appreciated. (not sure how I will get that bottom bolt back in the starter!:))

Regards,

 Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Personally, I would let them work the starter. There are plenty of parts to be had but it is getting harder to tell if you are getting the right ones. Likely the wheel tractor equivalent model is what you need to search on. My TD18 starter used the same shell and brush parts as my MD.

It is possible the commutator needs some solder and trimming work. Those bars sometimes like to come undone. Ifn ya got some time, go for it. magic_mikey has the tools and just whips through it, but I had to resort to using a drill press for trimming and a propane with tip for the soldering. With some luck you may not have those kinda problems though. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, sugarmaker said:

Gary, folks

Well I was sleeping in the tree stand today and decided I needed to come home and work on the TD6 starter.

I have a bunch of pictures. (will have to get them posted). Took out the three bolts for the starter. That is not a easy task!

Had to remove the two fuel lines. Then a vertical fuel line and a valve body. Then cut out the angular brace from the frame to the radiator support. This brace was not in good shape anyway and was bent in towards the engine. The starter is now out. The switch on top is not in good shape, the internal contact is worn very bad and that's why it did not start easy.

The starter is a model number 1108940. I have searched a little but have not found a switch yet.

I have a local shop in Erie that I may take the starter to and have them go through it. What do you think? I could take it apart myself. There was a lot of dirt built up under the cover band. cleaned off the caked mud grease and oil.

Any suggestions appreciated. (not sure how I will get that bottom bolt back in the starter!:))

Regards,

 Chris

Me , I'd go to Martin's starter not Erie .  Always thought the switch looked pretty common . Wholesale tractor parts might have on the shelf .  

 

 Come to think of it Akins still got that shop west of Albion ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Coffeecreek,

Thanks! I may try Martins. Have not used them, but have seen their name on a lot of electrical items like starters generators and electric motors. Have had pretty good luck in Erie. Atkins is out of business.Almost thought of taking it apart myself? The starter did function. For sure needs a good cleaning and maybe new brushes? And the switch has seen better days.

Just talked to Martins in Cambridge Springs and will take the starter and switch down to him. He checked on the switch cost, could be a pricey item? But from a safety issue, I do need to get this functioning so I can start it from the cockpit.

Here are some pictures:

DSC06450.jpg

bottom starter bolt is a bugger, just not much room

DSC06451.jpg

removed the fuel lines going past the starter

DSC06452.jpg

fuel lines and valve in front of the starter had to be removed too.

DSC06448.jpg

DSC06461.jpg

cut this brace off of the radiator shield

DSC06464.jpg

DSC06462.jpg

starter is out

DSC06467.jpg

switch

DSC06460.jpg

DSC06459.jpg

ring gear looked pretty good

DSC06475.jpg

Regards,

 Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Folks,

Took the TD6 starter and switch to Martins in Cambridge Springs. They will advise the cost of parts and clean and repair.

Also took the generator for viewing. Ended up bringing home a single pole alternator in a smaller size (more expensive unit). It is about the same diameter as the old generator. but about half as long.

Will get some pictures as I look at mounting options for the new alternator.

Also need to review how to wire up a single wire alternator in the system. Just seemed like the right thing to do if this machine is going to be around for a while longer.

Regards,

 Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stageone,

I hope not! That would be a several year project. I would like to get it functioning better so if we did need it to do some work it would be ready.

Ian,

Humm not sure the shipping cost from Oz. What do you want for it? I might be interested.  If you wouldn't mind please check shipping cost to zip code 16401 in US. My alternator guy is going to try to find a new one or we may try to rework this old one???

Off to look a possible bracket designs for the small 12180 SE 35 amp alternator. And then think about the wiring needed to make it function.

Regards,

 Chris

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Folks,

I have fabricated a new base bracket for the alternator. Removed the old cast generator bracket, and am going to use the same two mounting holes for the new bracket. The top adjusting bar had to be straightened to fit the new alternator. 
The trial fit up looks good.  I really like the size of this smaller unit! While in there I was going to change the belt running the new alternator but Whoa! Way too many things need to be taken apart to get that small belt out! Anybody ever change one of them? Looks like you would have to pull the radiator ????

I will try to post some pictures tomorrow, since it is going to rain all day. And we will be watching the Great grandson.

Regards,

 Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Folks,    

 These pictures show just how rough and crusty the old TD6 is! There is mud and dirt packed in every area!

Here is the old generator during removal. Band cover was missing and it had a lot of dirt and mud in there. Amazing that it did work before I power washed it!

DSC06484.jpg

DSC06482.jpg

old gen bracket (a piece of art)

DSC06483.jpg

new alternator in general location for fit up.

DSC06486.jpg

DSC06487.jpg

DSC06489.jpg

new lower alternator bracket. using same bolt holes to attach. A second leg was added to support the alternator base.

DSC06490.jpg

Regards,

 Chris

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A link belt might work fine?Thanks for the suggestion! I will sure keep that in mind if this one fails. It doesn't look like a easy task to change one.

Now to get the wiring diagram and see how I can wire this alternator up to function.

Regards,

 Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link belt will be fine . Gus is still running my old 62 series with a link belt I believe . I have a TD6 with one on it now that gives no problems .  Nice looking bracket .  It will prolly be fine just the way it is . I would be tempted to capture the bottom bolt on both sides of the alternator ear . I've been told I over build things so I would take that with a grain of salt . :D 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Coffeecreek,

 I like to over build too. Yes I welded another ear (tab) on for the other side of the alternator base. Seems like it will be sturdy.

Picked up a 10 mm bolt/nut, for the base pivot point and a 8 mm  cap screw for the adjuster.

I haven't looked at the book. but what is the procedure for putting on a conventional belt? Does the big belt pulley nut have to be loosened to get the big water pump belt off the crank pulley?

Not sure why my pictures are not showing?? Ok checked photobucket and they are down for maintenance. Sounds like my dozer! Hope there not trying to change the alternator belt on the internet!

Regards,

 Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Unfortunately, your content contains terms that we do not allow. Please edit your content to remove the highlighted words below.
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...