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TD6 Dozer/Loader


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Good stuff. There are only the three bolts. Odds are it needs a little soldering work internally.

Steering levers should take up at just a few inches into the pull, and not need much more to work.

Tapping the brakes is not a surprise. Experience tells me they will improve after a while.

Is that the original fuel tank arrangement? It looks like it but it seems kinda strange. Not many pics of those loaders have come this way however, and maybe a first for that one.

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Looks like a whole lotta fun !!! Glad to see Maggie is there to keep an eye on things ,

Great pictures of some beautiful property , Thanks for sharing

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Thanks Guys,

I was very pleased with the work I got done! As far as I know it is all original fuel system. I believe that loader system was made in California.

Thanks for the info on the starter bolts too. Looks like the fuel lines may have to come off to get the starter out. I have a good starter/generator repair shop in Erie on Parade street.

On the turning handle draw distance, I have not figured out how far they need to be pulled to get results.But was thinking the same thing as you mentioned. Thanks for the insight. I will try that next time.

Do I need to split the tracks to repair the track adjusters? Dreading that job. But may dive into it at some point. The way I work, I could spend a month off and on working on those.Still haven't found the repair link pin on the left side? Do I just pick one and start working on it? It may be there, just not obvious yet.

Regards,

Chris

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Oof, track adjusters. I have a larger pair that will likely never work as original ever again. An 8 foot cheater and they just laughed and laughed and laughed. One way to fix is to cut out part of threaded shaft and insert new material or shimming etc. I believe Dave Mc added some custom made hydraulic spacer gizmo tech to replace the rusted iron. If you can remove the entire iron block it may be possible to use electrolysis or molasses. I haven't convinced myself to take on that much effort as of yet, since cranes are involved.

That track pin has to be there. Regular pins are a lot harder to remove. I'm sure Kevin can elaborate.

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MDiesel,

What part will I need the crane for?

Good ideas of extending the threaded rod with a spacer of some type.

What is the large piece of iron you mention? I need to get the book out and look at the pieces that make this adjuster assembly again.

Your not giving me a warm and fuzzy feeling on these adjusters!

Regards,

Chris

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My new go to rust solution is Evaporust. That stuff is amazing! Clean the part of dirt, oil and loose rust, submerge it for a day or two, scrub it while rinsing with water and viola! - bare metal. It is not corrosive, so you can use it on assembled parts that include non-ferrous metals (like carbs) and it does not erode machined surfaces. I have used it to clean precision machine tools with no problem. It is also non toxic, so you don't even need gloves! I buy it at Harbor Freight, but it is available a lot of places. Tractor Supply and Amazon also carry it.

Take the adjuster off, pressure wash it to remove grease and dirt and build a wooden container big enough for it and line it with plastic (it doesn't even need a bottom, just sides). Add the part and Evaporust and let it work. You can use the solution 5-6 times. Good stuff.

http://www.evapo-rust.com/

Apple cider vinegar is also a good rust remover. Electrolysis won't really help you because it only removes rust on the surface (line of sight to the electrode) and doesn't get between pieces.

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Did our format change over night??

I may have to look at the evaporrust product too! Thanks! It sure looks amazing and safe.

I added some new hand grips to the control levers for the boom and bucket. Whooo Weeeeee!

Also replaced that missing spring for the return of the right steering lever.

I need a new gear shift boot too. I see Steiner has one that looks like it might be the one.$20. #IHS2480

Regards,

 Chris

 

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Yes it changed quite a bit.

Evaporust is expensive but R99 swears it works great. I haven't tried it yet. Have seen molasses work great too but it takes quite a while. The track tensioner blocks on an 18 require some heavy lifting and there is going to be something pulling from above. For sure not me. I have a nearly new undercarriage for Brutus but am doing everything I can to avoid that job right now. 

 

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Mdiesel:  It is not affordable for everything, but it really seems to work.  If you can keep the container closely sized to the part is doesn't take as much liquid, hence the idea of building the box to fit and lining it with plastic.

Vinegar may be worth a try on the larger non-precision parts.

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The electrolysis process might work for the tracks? You would have to build the tank for either type of cleaning.

You could have electrodes is different locations to get the best "line of sight" cleaning.

I did find the master link track pin on the left track. It was set in or out about a 1/16 of a inch. and I can feel the slots on the inside towards the tractor. I see someone mentioned getting this pin out when the track is off and on the ground on its side? Seems logical but easier said than done with no hoist at this time.

Regards,

 Chris

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Hey Chris, found you and the dozer...

Yeah you weren't kidding while you were describing the task ahead of you. But like most of your projects, you'll get it in good working condition sooner or later.

Sorry, don't have any advice for you about dozers, but from what I've read through, looks like you have a well balanced group here to help you get through this project.

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Todd,

 Hey you found me! Too many other projects to work on! This TD6 takes a back burner to every thing till a stump needs to be rooted out then its the GO TO machine! Tourch and a ten pound hammer come to mind as the tools of choice for working on these dirt movers!

I am still thinking of the moves to make on this old dozer. Dont give up on me I may get to it yet!

Regards,

 Chris

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On ‎5‎/‎24‎/‎2016 at 10:03 PM, sugarmaker said:

MDiesel,

What part will I need the crane for?

Good ideas of extending the threaded rod with a spacer of some type.

What is the large piece of iron you mention? I need to get the book out and look at the pieces that make this adjuster assembly again.

Your not giving me a warm and fuzzy feeling on these adjusters!

Regards,

Chris

I wish I knew where my old machine was stored. I'd take a picture of the slack adjuster I built. There wasn't that much to it. The main thing was lucking into a piece of tool steel all thread that was the correct size.

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Granted this is coming from a 30 year old, the track really isn't that heavy pending on how much you lift at once.  On my machine I brok track and rolled it into a giant ball.  It really isn't that hard to manuver in that state.

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If the tensioning threaded rod is stuck, clean threads and keep applying penetrant and some heat. For a quick fix, remove the two bolts that hold rod to idler frame and use a bottle jack sideways to move frame forward to proper track tension. Then measure the gap and make a spacer and longer bolts to hold the adjustment.

On track pin removal, position the master pin just behind the front idler on the ground side. I built a pin driver using a 12inch by 24 inch piece of i.5 inch plate. welded a piece of pipe on the plate and found a section of 1.25 inch axle shaft to fit in the pipe. lay the assembly on the ground next to the track and line up the pin with the driving rod. I used a 16 lb sledge hammer and it took about 1/2 hr to drive out. I had some sore ribs for about 3 days. Jim.

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Crawlernut has some great advice , I will add ,,, a pipe sleeve (for the pin driver) can be temp welded to a track pad ,

Also just as important as the 16 lb sledge is "backing up " the opposite side of the track chain with something very substantial ,

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Pp This

On ‎6‎/‎18‎/‎2016 at 10:31 AM, farmalldr said:

Put your safety glasses on

Dennis

This absolutely when working around heavy equipment pins.

Also a track spike hammer called by some a B&O makes a good pin punch.

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Chris,  If your master pin is retained by a small, 1/4'', cross pin in the link, it will not be a press fit.  That would be the original style of the day.  Just remove the small cross pin and the master should come out easily except for the step worn in it from years of wear.

Dennis

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  • 2 weeks later...

Folks,

 as normal tghe TD6 gets pushed aside for another more pressing issue! The clean up and painting of a Massey 8hp lawn tractor for up coming tractor show.

Great suggestions fo the removal of the track pins. The right track has a pin held in with a small cross pin. I could not feel one of the cross pins on the left side. Hope to get a little work done on this machine this summer. I did get a new shift boot for the gear shifter. Any one have a picture of how their's is installed?

Regards,

 Chris

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