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TD6 Dozer/Loader


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Lou, Thanks!

Folks,
Today I tackled the layout and fab work to get he Grill guard braces back in place.

 These are 3/8 x 3 inch wide straps, welded to the grill guard and bolted to the brackets on the frame. Trick here is to get the dimensions correct.

I used a 4 x 4 to simulate the frame rails. took measurements then set up each side and welded in the braces with the Mig.

 

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Welds completed:

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Ready to go to the paint booth.

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Also got the back hinged cover cover painted. Assembly should start soon. Keep your fingers crossed!:)

Thanks for checking in on me!

 Regards,

 Chris

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Not much action today. installed the rear hinged door.  Moved the grill guard to the clean and paint shop. Picked up more paint and some of the hardware for assembly. Some of the other folks on here are doing awesome work on their entire tracked machines. Mine is going to be a clean and fix and paint some parts project. Our great grandson Rhett (2 yrs) climbed in the TD6 this morning and helped me buy banging gently on the fuel tank with a small ball peen hammer. May have some pictures.

 Just wanted to say thanks to all the folks that check in to see what I am doing with the TD6. You may not respond often but I know your watching!:) And that's OK. Hoping a couple of things here help another tractor owner with their project too. I know a lot of folks on this forum have helped me keep this old tracked IH machine from being scraped. Also they helped with changes, requests and questions as I learned about this family tractor!

Regards,

 Chris 

                    

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Folks,

A few more pictures from today:

The back hinged door,  covering the HYDRECO valve system, installed: ( Humm, after looking at this picture the back of that Hydraulic tank might look good cleaned up too!)

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Rhett checking out the controls. Seems to make it all worth while:

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He kept saying "Start it Papa" Start it!"

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Regards,

 Chris

 

 

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Mike,

I dont have one, the way mine is set up I don't think they considered that a good option. Will keep on the look out. There might be one on the parts machine at Burgh yard near zielinople (sp) PA?

Regards,

 Chris

 

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Well Master Chris, glad I checked in on the TD6 project. Haven't been through the whole thread yet, but I'll get on it.

I like what you're doing, fixing what needs it, and preserving parts and pieces with paint as you remove them. Lot heavier pieces than what we're used to with the old Cub Cadets. Old man like you needs that young man (grandson) for "support". Keep at it buddy, cause knowing you as I do, it'll be covered in 2150 red sooner or later.B)

Keep up the good fight...:D 

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Todd,

Good to know you found me! You know I like to post a lot and a lot of pictures too, so grad a cold one and kick back! Yes quality time with bigger equipment has been keeping me busy since retirement. I still have fun at tractor shows firing up that straight pipe 147 Cub and letting her rip for a few seconds, and then backing it off for the cracking backfire! Crowd seems to like to hear the red Cub bark. Must still be some kid in there somewhere?:)

Hope things are good in Gillett! We are getting that rain you talked about the other day. That means progress on the TD6 has slowed a little.

Regards,

 Chris

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Folks,

 Yesterday I did get the grill guard scrubbed and painted.(will get a picture soon. Today Rhett and I went on a bolt run. Found the 5/8 flat head socket head screws for the grill guard. I have the two rear frame brackets installed. These are spacers between the tractor frame and the square solid cross bar. They also attach the lower ends of the diagonals from the grill guard.

Regards,

 Chris

 

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Folks,

 While the pan was off I took off the sediment bowl again. Cleaned it and made a new gasket. Was much easier to do without the belly pan! The belly pan brackets and grill guard are partially on! Grandson Mike came over and helped me get the grill guard carefully into position, using the Ford tractor and lift arm. Being a auto mechanic this was not a big deal for him. I have four bolts in the braces but the brackets on the lower front need some tuning to get holes enlarged and or aligned. Will have some pictures soon too.

Have to evaluate that rear support for the track frame that is missing the studs, or the studs are broken off!

Regards,

 Chris

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Folks,

Sometimes I think computers are harder to work on than old iron! Had this just about done and it went into some other language mode!

So the saga continues:

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Belly pan:

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Brackets at rear bolted to frame: You need small hands to get these bolts in place from underneath:

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Front brackets sandwich between belly pan and frame: More hard to reach bolts!

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Mike and his friend Heidi helped get the grill guard in place: More pictures coming on that too:

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I got the rest of the bolts in the front brackets this morning using a drift to help align the 5/8 holes:

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installed the pump this evening:

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As soon as it was filled with oil the left hose (right in this picture) started to drip from the middle of the hose. Pulled it off and NAPA made me a new one in about 20 minutes:

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All that monkeying around and the new coupling between the engine and the pump was the ticket for getting the pump operational again!: Tractor fired right up!

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No leaks in the hydraulic connections, so It was time to add the front of the grill guard: Was getting a little late.

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Here is a before picture for comparison:

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Was glad I spent the time to straighten some of the steel out. Plus learned a lot more about the TD6 along this journey too:

Next thing will be the spring covers, headlights and another look at that right rear frame support (missing studs).

Regards,

 Chris

 

 

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Folks,

George, Dave and Tanker Have given me some ideas about the missing bolts in the rear of the right track frame. Good pictures from Tanker and good suggestions for possible fixes from the others. I will try to get under there sometime today and do another evaluation. I like to idea of taking the "L" shaped bar off to get at the broken bolts. Sounds easy peasy as I write it. I know these things are rarely easy, especially upside down laying under a TD6, with tools, prybars, tourches, and welders!:) But comes with the territory!

Regards,

 Chris

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Folks,

I worked on that torsion bar (that's what I call it) found that it was loose on the track side. So it was not supporting any weight. With that piece of info, I decided to take it off the machine. Removed the 5 remaining bolts and off came the piece. It soaked in the E-tank overnight to get the crud off. Drove out the two pins, and cleaned them up.

Have three of the holes with the broken off bolts drilled, almost ready to try to retap. Not much room there to get tools in to drill and or tap. 5/8-11 studs x 2.5 inches long will have to be found.  Pictures later.

Regards,

 Chris

 

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Folks,

Some pictures of quality time with the TD6:

The curved bar in question is the one on the right:

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Have you ever been working on something like this and you get a helper?:) Thats Maggie and me under the back of the loader:

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Later It started thundering and she crawled under with me to be safe!

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Its out, and there are a bunch of shims which of course fell out before I could figure out where they went:

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Cleaned up:

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The broken stud location on the rear compression spring perch:

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The good stud 5/8 course on the spring end and 5/8 fine on the outside: Will make a trip to the bolt place to see what I can find. I would use course on both ends if that's what I can get:

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Have to work on the two holes that are in very tight quarters today. I may try cutting through the old bolt from the inside out, now that I have a hole through them? Just doesn't tap well when part of the old bolt is in there!

Regards,

 Chris

 

 

 

 

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Best of luck on the broken bolts , and thanks for keeping us up to date on all the progress

All of us appreciate the pictures and hard work :)

Maggie is one of the cutest helpers I have ever seen !

Pretty sure some older trucks used similar sized wheel studs as yours

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Kevin thanks, I never thought about wheel studs.

Tanker I may need your help on the shims? Will try to check the manual too. I only have the right side off so the shims should be Ok I think. Surprised that each side is unique? Will watch that as it goes back together. Which it is going back together!. I haven't given up yet but those three broken studs were not easy! I center drilled all three then kept enlarging the holes. one came out a little egg shaped. I used a saber saw to cut through two of the studs from the inside out. and finally as a last resort I actually used the torch to burn out the bolt from the casting. Very crude but effective! Pretty rough work laying on your back under a oily old machine. I did not catch it or myself on fire which was a miracle! Got them all re tapped and we are moving forward again.

BTW what is the true function of this curved bar?

Some pictures:

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I know, the other one is not going to be painted. But sure is nicer working with fresh stuff when it goes back together:

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Getting ready to do layout for the spring covers, A tomorrow job.

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Some clean up and rattle can work./ While masking this off I found the TD6 circle on the fuel tank:

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The spring cover should be the last of the cleaned and painted items:

Regards,

 Chris

 

 

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IH called this "curved bar" a diagonal brace. It holds the track frame in alignment, front to back. Think of a triangle, one point being where it hooks to the pivot shaft in the middle rear, one point being where the studs were broken off and the third there the track frame hooks to the pivot bar at the sprocket. Drott loaders did not have these diagonal braced, they replaced the spring in the front with a square bar that bolted to the track frames on each side. I was surprised to see that your loader used the diagonal braces, but that was the choice of the manufacturer who made the loader attachment. I also checked some wheel studs off a Budd wheel that I have and they are 3/4 course thread, 2 1/2 inches long, but I am sure that there may be some wheel studs out there that are the right size and length for you. I also checked McMaster Carr and they have the right size studs you need, grabe 8, but are course on both ends which the wheel studs would be anyway.

George

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George,

Thanks for the info on the diagonal brace function! I also have the solid front cross beam rathere than the springs         . I ordered the studs from Mc Master Carr this morning. But I forgot to see if they were the grade 8 version? Opps might have ordered std ones? Wasnt thinking. They should be here tomorrow. The ones I ordered ar:

2 1/2"lg 3/4"thd one end 7/8" thd the other end 60,000 PSI  Grade Not Rated  p/n 91563A304 $1.53

I am putting together my sheet metal brake to see if I can bend the spring covers .Hammering on then to get them formed is not going to cut it!  Picked up SST bolts for those covers.

Tacked a piece of 3/8 thick steel under the left frame where the idler support slides. Should take some of the slop out.

Regards,

 Chris

 

 

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Folks,

 I was able to bend the spring covers to closely match the originals. Drilled the holes, trial fit, primed, painted, and installed them. If I get the studs tomorrow I should be able to get the diagonal brace back on, and maybe move the TD6 off the blocks! I will get some pictures up soon.

Thanks for the support on this IH project!

Regards,

 Chris

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Folks,

 These spring covers rusted out and gone had been bugging me since I brought the TD6 home. Here are some pictures of the tooling and end results:

The pattern:

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This is a sheet metal brake that I made that I think I have $5.00 into. Just scraps I gathered up. Used a design I found from Big Eddie on the Maple trader forum: I tried to form this with a hammer and it was going to look like poop! So I set this brake back up in my junk shed. Dont look at the mess!

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The results of gentle bending and checking:

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Trial fit, looks pretty good:

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Done:

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On to the diagonal brace if the studs arrive. Maybe also weld a small patch in the bottom of the bucket where it has worn thin and broken through.

Hope things are good in IH land!

Regards,

 Chris

 

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Folks,

Working on that hole in the bucket today. I cut a piece of .062 thick, prior to cutting out the bad area. Then got to thinking I bet its thicker than that! Yep! It looks like it was 1/4 inch, so I cut a chunk from some 1/4 that I have. Roughed to shape and should get it in place after lunch. I did start the tractor up and all systems seem to be functioning.

I am thinking of removing the air filter canister to clean it. Is it the bolts on the top?

Regards.

Chris

 

 

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Folks,

Dennis Thanks!

I seem to take a lot of breaks!:) Got the loader bucket patch welded up, and cleaned up some steel that did not look quite right around the edges of the bucket. Uncle Jack liked to weld. He would have loved having a big Mig welder! He used a old Lincoln stick welder. One you plug in the electrode wire ends into small tapperd holes, to change the heat settings.

The TD6 air cleaner with the oil cup missing, was bugging me so the three bolts came off. Had to also remove the long bolt thing in the air box too. Then was able to get the filter system off. The screen doesn't look like it comes out. At least not without damaging the canister. The under side of the exposed filter was solid with grease and dirt. Have to clean it up and find a oil cup. and breather jar.

Regards,

Chris

 

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Folks,

 Finishing up the evening with some highlights on the status of TD6 work.

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Work on the hole in the bucket:

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Air cleaner removed, very dirty, must have run for years with no oil cup, also I think there is another screen that is missing too?:

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After some cleaning:

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I have this metal part that looks like it probably had the fine screen prefilter:

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top end of filter:

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Found a package from McMaster Carr on the garage steps after lunch: So the Diagonal brace was next on the list to install. I used Locktite on the threads in the casting:

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Now this was a handful to lift into place, finally had to use the floor jack to support it. The holes had to be reamed to allow the slightly out of position studs to enter. Used never seize on the two pins and drove them home:

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Getting this back end together was a challenge and I see what Tanker means these shim packs are different hole spacing. Worked good to not get them mixed up.

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Was a rielief to move it off the blocks and out of the front yard:

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The lights and the air cleaner maybe it for this summer. It ran good and steering work well, and the hydraulics work as good as before too. Sometimes its hard to remember why we started these projects!:):

Regards,

 Chris

 

 

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