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TD6 Dozer/Loader


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I don't have any words of wisdom for operating that is for sure!! The only fault other than myself is I put to light an oil in the hydraulic system and will have to dump 50 Lt of good oil, then buy 50L of new engine oil. Bit of a waste, I will find something to put the old oil in. I would like to haul mine around to shows but the cost of transport a bit much to do it on a regular basis. Unfortunately the big pick up trucks and trailers you have over there cost a fortune, they are seen a status symbol over here and even old rusty worn out ones will cost tens of thousands. Can't justify buying a flat bed truck, the yearly taxes on them is pretty high.  

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Folks, Dave, Stageone,

I couldn't take the mud covered under carriage and power washed most of the mud off. I also power washed in around the front of the engine where the dirt/ grease was hiding some of the lower crank pulley! This probably had never been cleaned out while it was a working tractor. The protective lower pan helped hold this dirt packed up around the oil pan.

I would love to get enough snow to "have to" get the dozer out to clear the drive! So, Yes I did not want it to be froze up. Parked it on some 6 x 6 timbers too. Should be ready for that blizzard!

Regards,

 Chris

 

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Folks,

The starting handle/ system has bugged me. i needed to come up with a different lever to allow the starter switch to be engaged easier and with more reliability. So I applied some heat to the "T" shaped handle. Then it turned off the fine threaded shaft. I found a chrome plated, solid brass, handle which came from a late 40's Chris Craft boat that was Cheryl's dad's. It was the forward and reverse shift lever.  Cut it shorter (now about 8 inches long), bent it to clear the dash and drilled a hole in it to fit over the starter rod. Re installed the T handle. Pretty crude! But it sure helped start up the old TD6! Ran it on gas for several minutes then it switched easily to diesel. Switch back to gas worked good too. Will try to get a picture loaded.

I did not look for the springs on the carb side which are supposed to hold the gas lever in the down position. If anyone has pictures of them it would help!

Regards,

 Chris

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Red power folks,

 Couple shots of the mods to the starting lever:

DSC06672.jpg

DSC06673.jpg

switch replaced,

DSC06674.jpg

The temp gage is not functioning. Any suggestions as to which IH temp gage and or block insert/wire will work?

I did spray some PB blaster on the track adjusters for some future work.

 Regards,

 Chris

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Folks,

I have been wanting to take a picture of this picture for a while. Here is a advertising photo of the TD-6 that I have. I don't remember Uncle Jack having the scarfier system. It is a sepia colored picture.

DSC06675.jpg

The real thing.

DSC04815.jpg

Regards,

 Chris

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Good afternoon,

I was browsing the net for TD6 pictures and did not see another with the ATECO loader system? Not sure if there are survivors with this bucket system out there?

Also I was looking through my manual and did find a picture of the long spring location behind where the Generator was. Not sure where the small spring goes. If any one has details of these it might help me solve why the gas handle does not stay in down "gas" position?

Also studying the track removal procedures for a possible project next May?

Our weather has gone from 75 degrees to cold and blowing snow.

Regards,

 Chris

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Folks,

 Happy Thanksgiving!

About all I have done to the old TD6 is squirt blaster on the track adjusters. Looks like one side has a broken casting where the lock bolt goes through.

Regards,

 Chris

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On 14/11/2016 at 8:01 PM, stageone said:

I don't have any words of wisdom for operating that is for sure!! The only fault other than myself is I put to light an oil in the hydraulic system and will have to dump 50 Lt of good oil, then buy 50L of new engine oil. Bit of a waste, I will find something to put the old oil in. I would like to haul mine around to shows but the cost of transport a bit much to do it on a regular basis. Unfortunately the big pick up trucks and trailers you have over there cost a fortune, they are seen a status symbol over here and even old rusty worn out ones will cost tens of thousands. Can't justify buying a flat bed truck, the yearly taxes on them is pretty high.  

To curl the hair of North American readers

The official version of what we get as a Dodge pickup starts at over $A 100,000 and the upmarket one is around $A 140,000 ($A = about $US0.75)

http://www.carsguide.com.au/car-news/the-dodge-ram-is-coming-to-australia-31637

Stageone - if you can wangle a flatbed truck as a primary producer it isn't so bad.  Our 4.5 tonner is  cheaper to register than a Cruiser and  (for some unknown reason) much cheaper than a Falcon ute

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  • 2 weeks later...

Red power folks,

Thanks for checking in on me! First notice how nice and clean the picture above is from Mike.

 Well take a look at the years of accumulation in this picture of my TD6. I just stuck the camera in there and took a few shots. Yikes what a mess.

I see now that I am missing the small spring towards the back of the machine.  Maybe this is the key to getting that gas handle to lock into the down 'gas' position? Sure would be great if that fixed the problem. Would be nice not to have to hold that lever down till the switch over to diesel. Now to find a spring. I think I will just go to the hardware store and try to find something close.

DSC06710.jpg

DSC06708.jpg

But, I have the long spring in the front of the mechanism.

DSC06707.jpg

Other news: Looking at the track adjuster on the left side I noticed that the two bolts at the front of the adjuster were missing or broken.  So I tried to turn the track adjuster. Well it turned alright, a little too easy. The threads are stripped out inside the casting! Not sure what the fix will be for that unit??? Its going to have to come apart someday.
Regards,

 Chris
 

 

 

 

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Good evening,

 I had a issue with this small spring.:) (Like a dog with a bone sometimes:)) Once I cleaned some of the dirt away and found how this is supposed to work, I went to the vast warehouse and found a small tension spring that might be about the right spring rate. Shortened it, re-bent a hook on one end, and installed it. Lubed the pivot joint for the spring loaded pawl and the rod joint, going through to the other side of the engine. It seems as if its going to work just fine. The gas handle stayed down each time I tried it. What a simple fix! Thanks to folks like magicmikey  and M Diesel on here, this problem is now understood and maybe even fixed for some time. Wonder how long that little return spring had been missing? I bet years and Uncle Jack just came up with a work around all that time. This should be much easier to start and shut down now! Thanks again Mike  and Gary!!!

some pictures:

gas handle in the down position (running on gas) pawl is spring loaded up and holds the cam.

DSC06712.jpg

Gas handle in the up position to run on diesel. spring is in tension and pawl is in down position.

DSC06714.jpg

gas handle  stays in the gas on position!

DSC06713.jpg

Regards,

 Chris

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Folks,

 Thinking ahead towards spring! I am thinking about the track adjusters on this TD6. I know that i just need to dive in and start. But the weather is going to get bad. So now is the time to plan a little, maybe with your help i can develop a good plan. Some pictures:

Left adjuster screw has the trhreads stripped out in the rear housing. The two bolts that attach the front flange to the back of the idler are sheared off / broken and the threads remains in the yoke of the idler. This side I have not tried to take out the track pin. I was thinking the following.

Maybe just cut the old threaded rod into sections and remove it.

Then allow the idler to move back.

 Remove the track.

slide the idler off the rail and start repairs.

Maybe there is a easier/ better way??? Open to ideas!

DSC04676.jpg

Next the right side:

This side has the loose track pin, should knock out easily after the small cross pin is removed.

So I could remove the track by taking it apart.

The adjuster on this side has one bolt in the front flange. Very rusted.

Un sure if the threads are stripped in the adjuster bolt on this side?

This side the rail system looks like it has been bent and broke and rewelded. This may need the idler removed, not sure after that.

These rails are very worn(both sides) and the matching sliders on the idlers are VERY worn also. Not sure of the possible fix for those?

I would kind of like to repair both sides the same way if possible. Rather than cobble both sides differently. Just seems like a good goal!

DSC04655.jpg

Regards,

 Chris

 

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In the first foto the adjustor has been " repaired" by adding the nut ahead of the casting. It will push the same as the internal thread.

The sliders can be built up as well as the track frame wear spot. The second foto track frame appears to still be bent ?.

mike

 

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11 hours ago, magicmikey said:

In the first foto the adjustor has been " repaired" by adding the nut ahead of the casting. It will push the same as the internal thread.

The sliders can be built up as well as the track frame wear spot. The second foto track frame appears to still be bent ?.

mike

Mike,

 Yes a nut was added but it looks like it is in bad shape and rusted solid to the threads. I agree the concept is correct to tighten the track with the nut.

Yes track frame on right side looks to have been broken and welded the best they could do. (not as straight as I would like it. If I ever get it apart I will evaluate if the front of the frame can be repaired? Would have to cut it apart and welded it back together. It may be a bigger project than I can handle? We shall see.

Thanks for your replies. May need you help if I get into this project.

Regards,

 Chris

 

 

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9 hours ago, Ian Beale said:

IIRC  it looks like in your second photo your idler brackets ought to have bolt on plated at the bottom?  Which ought to be shim adjustable.

Our 1952 one didn't have them and there was a lot less below the track frame rail

Ian,

 Thanks! This looks like it has some extra steel welded on to try to reduce some of the clearance and load a few more gravel orders!:) I dont know what I may get into but I will check in the book and see what those shims looked like.

Do you guys just add weld to build up these worn frames??

 Regards,

Chris

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You would probably have better luck welding a thin piece of plate steel to it so that you have less grinding to do.  A few stringer welds on the sides and a few rosette welds in the middle to keep it from moving should do it.  You can use some thicker plate (3/16?) if needed and shim your bottom plate more.  Make new bottom plates to bolt on and shim as necessary.  The shims on my 500c were just rectangles of metal with two bolt holes through them so that they fit between the bottom plate and the idler yoke and were clamped between the bottom plate and the yoke by the bottom plate bolts.

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I actually have one that they used a leaf spring as a shim / wear surface .  One other has several strips of thin steel tacked in for a spacer .

 

 

  I'd be real tempted to try wax on that adjuster nut  ( in the spring ) .    Heat nut but not cherry red , melt a wax toilet seal  in just like sweating a copper pipe . Let cool . Turn nut just like it's new .  ;)  Have had success before with that trick , more than once .    

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Chris, I had my threads stripped/slipping at the end of the rod, I simply added in some square nuts to the front idler to act as spacers and with the added nut that MM mentioned gave me enough to bite on to. I'll try and take a pic of the mod tomorrow in daylight. 

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Rawleigh, Coffee creek, and Red-to-go,

Thanks for the support. This gives me several ideas and options for the idler adjustment screw and the worn areas on the front of the frame. If I can get it apart I have a good shop close by that can build/ weld about anything I need. We got about a foot of snow last night so today the wood fire feels real good and I am doing way more setting around than anything else!:)

Have another project in mind not IH related. Friend has a 1956 Ford F800 Big Job that he is willing to part with. It was a fire truck. Frame has been shortened. Fire truck box has been removed. Not sure I need something like this? Anyone into vintage trucks, have suggestions?

Regards,

 Chris

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Folks we are up to a foot + of snow in the last two days. Last day of rifle season for deer in PA. I was fortunate to harvest a small doe last night.

The TD6 waits! Maybe I will look on line to see if I can find a water temp gauge and thermocouple.

Regards,

 Chris

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Folks,

 Was running around in the cold weather today and took some close up pictures to show how worn this old TD6 is. Anything can be fixed some things take longer and require more money! But this is a good time of the year to jaw about it. As the cold and snow close in around us.

DSC06750.jpg

DSC06751.jpg

Right front idler support, worn gap, rail and slider portion.

DSC06752.jpg

I jammed a piece of steel in the back to remove some of the slack and it is still there.

DSC06753.jpg

DSC06755.jpg

DSC06756.jpg

This top roller has a bad worn flat spot too!

DSC06759.jpg

Left idler support and worn areas.

DSC06760.jpg

DSC06761.jpg

This is the side that the large threads is stripped out.

DSC06763.jpg

Where Jack added this pusher nut on the stripped thread that is pretty much toast. Thinking of just cutting this whole threaded portion out. If I get the track off someday! Actually if I had the track off and idler moved forward it would fall out. But was thinking if I could not get the track apart easily I could let the idler come back and remove the track as a unit. At that point I would need to cut it out.

DSC06764.jpg

Cant tell if this top roller has the same flat spot? May be up on top? Any ideas of fixing those rollers or do you just try to find better used ones?

Regards,

 Chris

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

IH folks,

 Happy New Year! One of my 2017 goals is to do some much needed work on the TD6 track adjusters.

Without a shop this will probably done outside in the big garage!:)

Also looking forward to seeing how the improved starting system preforms.

 We are having a local tractor show featuring IH equipment and I would like to take the TD6 in its work clothes if I can get someone to haul it for me.

Have a great and safe 2017.

Regards,

Chris

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