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73IH810

'67 1200B Project

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It would seem that the vent drain clogged at some point during the truck's two decade field sleep, and this backed up into the interior fresh air cowls. The cowls were rotted out in the lower corners of the cab which led to the rusted out floors and the rot on the side of the cab near the parking brake.

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Replacing the floors does not bother me at all, have done it before on a F250 High Boy. Just trying to figure out how hard replacing the fresh air cowls inside the cab will be. The under hood rust on the outside of the cowls shouldn't be too difficult since I can get repair panels for those. The rest of the cab (rockers, etc) are solid and rust free except for one cab corner repair that was done previously. Not certain if a cab swap would be easier or not. The rotted out parts are very centralized, with little additional rust around them. The mouse nest under the dash and in the glove box did not help anything in this cab.

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I think it looked worse to me while I was taking everything apart. But after stepping away and then looking at it again last night while enjoying a beer in the shop, I realized how little of the actual fresh air box was really gone and that most of it is fairly flat metal. I noticed there are two drains in the air box which should dump water out right behind the fenders and in front of the doors, when they aren't clogged up. This also makes sense as to why the C-series seem to get that vertical rusted line in their fenders. I figure, this truck is going to be used for driving on nice days, shows, and hauling my pulling tractor. So, it may get caught in the rain every so often but mostly live in a garage. I could just let it stay as is, or rivet in some aluminum and seal it with silicon, to prevent water intrusion. But, I have an anvil, hammers, shear, brake, MIG welder, and flanger for a reason; so might as well fabricate some steel replacement panels. I'm thinking some 22AWG steel stock to start mocking up panels. weld them into the existing air box after cutting back the part metal, and them paint the inside of the box, or at the very least cold galvanize my new panels. The good thing this cab has is that all the rust was caused by standing water entering the cab. So where it rusted out, there is very little additional surface rust on the steel painted services around the rot. The floors rusted through from the inside, which left plenty of rust free under-side cab to work with.

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With the arsenal of equipment you mentioned , I would think about just buying the proper thickness of steel , and

forget about the pre-made patch panels , In my opinion they will only complicate the repairs by forcing you match

their size and shape ,

I could not tell by the pix if your dash pad needed replacing ?? There is at least one company that has the pattern and

re-pads and re-covers them , I sure could use some new cowl vent doors for my project , Did yours survive ?

Enjoying seeing all the progress , You will have a fine truck when finished

Good Luck

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With the arsenal of equipment you mentioned , I would think about just buying the proper thickness of steel , and

forget about the pre-made patch panels , In my opinion they will only complicate the repairs by forcing you match

their size and shape ,

I could not tell by the pix if your dash pad needed replacing ?? There is at least one company that has the pattern and

re-pads and re-covers them , I sure could use some new cowl vent doors for my project , Did yours survive ?

Enjoying seeing all the progress , You will have a fine truck when finished

Good Luck

The dash definitely needs to be fixed. The edges and everything are in good shape actually, but there are some deep cracks. I am going to take it to a look upholstery/boat seat place and see what they can do. As for the cowl vent doors, do you mean the metal box that's pictured? It somehow was not rusted out while everything above and below it was rotted away. I don't know how that happens...

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The cable operated vent doors , In my 67 1100B they were originally made of molded rubber , And I have

had no luck finding replacements .

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The cable operated vent doors , In my 67 1100B they were originally made of molded rubber , And I have

had no luck finding replacements .

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Oh those, yeah mine are gone.

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Picked up a few more parts the last week. NOS 4x4 drag link for the D44HD front axle I have and a throw out bearing. Also snagged a transfer case shifter level to go wit h the transfer case mounting brackets I have. Just need a transfer case now...

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Ahhh The UPS driver has been busy :) Good score on the drag link ,They are getting mighty scarce .

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Ahhh The UPS driver has been busy :) Good score on the drag link ,They are getting mighty scarce .

Glad I was able to find one then, had no idea they were scarce. For the tie rod, I figured I can use an adjustable fabricated one like I got for my Scout. Made out of 1.25" DOM tubing with screw in tie rod ends.

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The N.O.S. drag link appears to be a 364045C91, which was only used on 1200C 4X4's with intergal power steering. I know you are converting this truck to four wheel drive. A 349221C91 which was used on 1200B and 1200C 4X4's without power steering, would be the one that I would be looking for. No idea how much different the two are. I guess we will find out when you get around to test fitting it.

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The N.O.S. drag link appears to be a 364045C91, which was only used on 1200C 4X4's with intergal power steering. I know you are converting this truck to four wheel drive. A 349221C91 which was used on 1200B and 1200C 4X4's without power steering, would be the one that I would be looking for. No idea how much different the two are. I guess we will find out when you get around to test fitting it.

It is the 364045 drag link. Found the part number written on the bottom side in sharpie. It is the same length as the current one I have, has the ends in the right directions and the bend even matches up to the 4x4 axle....I guess I shall just have to try it and see. Thanks for the info though! Never thought I'd learn the differences in drag links for C series Internationals haha.

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Checking around nearby CL's finally paid off. I found a guy selling some '67 1200 parts about 3.5hrs away near Joplin, MO. Had a good time talking about IH projects with him while we loaded up my truck. He is currently building a rock crawler out of his 1200. For $350, I picked up a set of low mileage axles(4.10/4.09), NP205 transfer case, front and rear bumpers, and a near perfect fender. I already have a set of 4.88 axles I picked up months earlier but found a steering knuckle needed to be replaced. Having not found a closed knuckle still and the very low gear ratio, I think this newer set will work better. And it has the front leaf spring packs already installed!

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Nice find on the parts !! I think that is a NP202 Transfer case , Not 100% sure . Can somebody else positively identify ??

That fender is in great shape :)

Oh if it end up being a np202 ,Not a bad thing, very heavy duty , I cant seem to find a lot of parts support for mine though

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Nice find on the parts !! I think that is a NP202 Transfer case , Not 100% sure . Can somebody else positively identify ??

That fender is in great shape :)

Oh if it end up being a np202 ,Not a bad thing, very heavy duty , I cant seem to find a lot of parts support for mine though

Low part support? That would just stay in theme of the rest of the truck haha! I can tell the gears inside the transfer case are very, very tight and everything turns beautifully. Apparently the truck that these parts came from never left the farm and had very low miles. Any help identifying the t-case is appreciated. Since it's from another '67 1200B and I have the mounts, I'm not too worried about making it work in my '67 1200B.

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It does look like a NP202. I see where there is a provision for a PTO on the rear of the case. I have the lower shift shaft free and working, just need to clean up the upper shaft before it will slide into the case any further. I guess I got lucky, the rear 4.10 axle has a limited slip and trying to push it around/steer it shows the clutches are working well. I swapped the IH hubs I had over the 4.09 front axle and everything appears to be tight and functioning on it.

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If anyone needs a set of 3/4 ton 4.88 axles, I have a set outside the shop. And should have a 2WD front axle here soon as well.

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Got the front 2WD axle out by cutting the old bushing studs on ether side of the leaf springs with a Sawzall. Lined up the 4WD axles with some bolts in the front and noted the springs were 2" shorter than the 2WD springs. Started thinking about making longer shackles to get around the shorter springs until I realized that the frame had the 4WD shackle mount bushing hole and bolt holes 2" ahead of the 2WD provision. Cut off the rivet heads and currently drilling out the old rivets from the shackle mount so I can bolt it in the correct spot on the frame.

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Got the front 2WD axle out by cutting the old bushing studs on ether side of the leaf springs with a Sawzall. Lined up the 4WD axles with some bolts in the front and noted the springs were 2" shorter than the 2WD springs. Started thinking about making longer shackles to get around the shorter springs until I realized that the frame had the 4WD shackle mount bushing hole and bolt holes 2" ahead of the 2WD provision. Cut off the rivet heads and currently drilling out the old rivets from the shackle mount so I can bolt it in the correct spot on the frame.

Get some good poly urethane bushings. Energy Suspension probably can set you up.

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With the help of an air chisel to cut off rivet heads, and a press to get the rivet bodies out; I was able to move the front axle shackle mounts on the frame. Ordered in some new bushings and picked up 9/16" grade 8 bolts for the spring mounts and some smaller grade 8 bolts for mounting the shackles to the frame in the 4WD holes. Once everything was in place on the frame and I got the axle/springs lined up, it didn't take long to get it all bolted in without having to pry/pull to line up bolts.

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Does anyone have a good picture of what the 4WD front shock mount on a C-series looks like? I know the placement of my 2WD is wrong, but I don't see where I could move this mount to and utilize existing holes in the frame.

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I can get a better shot tomorrow

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Pretty sure it uses the 2 holes that are about a foot back from your mount , the mount is basically a formed angle iron

with a double ended stud , The mount is held on with 2 bolts

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couple more pix, This is my 1100B , But the 1200's I have seen are the same setup

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couple more pix, This is my 1100B , But the 1200's I have seen are the same setup

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Kevin, thank you! Those really don't look hard to build. Would just need to find the right bushing/pin for the shock, but something could be fabricated for that.

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Here is the studs , Other light line dealers may have them also ,http://scoutpluss.squarespace.com/shackels-and-shocks/

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