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73IH810

'67 1200B Project

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He had the motor a month!

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He had the motor a month!

Haha, yeah. But for the prices he quoted me over the phone for machine work, worth the wait. Every week he has it, is another week I dont have to write a check for anything lol.

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Here are the other three brake drums from the 1200. The one rear still has a small line in it. We decided to leave it after one pass so 20-30 yrs down the road when I have to do another brake job, I can hopefully turn the drums again.

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Reinstalled the drums and tires on the truck. With the one rear wheel's brake shoes not stuck to the drum anymore, it is a lot easier to push around. Decided to roll the truck outside today and clean up the firewall and frame. Used from engine degreaser and a stiff brush but got a lot of old dirt and grease off.

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And the last ones I took today.

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Well guys, talked to my machinist this afternoon. He got the motor apart and cleaned up. The heads actually are in great shape and just need valve seals, crank measured out fine, and the block had no cracks. The rear cam bearing did come apart but left the outer part of the bearing in the block which did not spin thankfully. Cam and lifters are pretty well worn and need replaced. Now the bad... It looks that when that bearing went, the rear two cylinder got scored. They both have a deeper ring groove than the front 6 cylinders and have a bit of a wavy pattern to the walls. The machinist said he could hone them out still and re-ring the pistons, but that it I ever actually used the motor there would be a good chance of breaking a ring. Going to try to head over to the shop tomorrow to look at it. I asked him to work me up prices on parts/labor to bore the 304 out. May be time to bore it, run a higher cam in it, and one one of the quicker IH's in Arkansas haha.

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Went and looked at the motor yesterday. Both rear cylinders are scorched. Machinist is going to bore out the worst cylinder at .020 and see if that cleans it up, if not then we will go to .030. Crank checked out fine after a polish, cam had lobes that were pretty worn and is toast. Found the timing gears to have good backlash so may reuse them instead of using new ones, which I don't trust new steel a whole lot. Priced a Sealed Power master engine kit only to find the contoured (dome) pistons are obsolete. About the only company making new ones is Silv-O-Lite.

Can't really decide on a cam/lifters. Have read mixed reviews about Schneider, cant seem to find a cam/lifter kit from Isky, and Sealed Power only offers a stock grind. Anyone have any input on a cam/lifter/valve spring combo?

Valves and valve guides look to be in great shape. Going to just do a simple valve job to it and replace the seals. Plan is to mill the block and heads to ensure they are flat and to also accommodate for the newer thicker head gaskets.

Just for an FYI, here are the prices my machinist gave me;

Engine hot tank, bore, hone, install bearings, install crank, install cam, install timing gears- $280.

3-angle valve job and mill the heads .010 for new head gaskets- $150/pair.

polish crankshaft- $45.

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At this point in time My opinion is stay away from Sealed power lifters (china made ) There are 2 brands of lifters I would recommend

Johnson (johnson hylift) or Comp Cams , Isky is making the cams , also Comp Cams , Take a look at IH parts America " IHPA"

If you take a peek at my Travelall thread you will see some issues arising with aftermarket cam bearings and their installation in the rear

journal

Here is a couple of threads with good info

http://www.ihpartsamerica.com/forums/gas-engine-tech/882-ih-lifter-rattle-syndrome-what-do-i-have.html

http://www.ihpartsamerica.com/forums/gas-engine-tech/868-i-4-sv-engine-non-oiling-rocker-assembly.html

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Some very good reading Kevin, thank you for the info!

That leans me towards going with a Comp Cam kit and that way I get the better timing gears, lifters, heavier valve springs, and valve seals. I am currently debating between the 260 duration and the 268 duration Comp Cams. I've have read a few guys that have used the 260 as an "RV" cam and noted that it woke up their 304's pretty well. What grinds have you used in a 304/SV before Kevin?

I will have to watch how well the oil holes line up between the block and bearings during installation and see if I have to find a different bearing manufacturer.

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I had a brain fart. The engine kit I originally priced had Sealed Power cam, lifters and Clevite 77 bearings. So I'll go with the Comp Cams cam/lifters and stick with the Clevite bearings.

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I have never used anything but stock camshafts in IH motors before , According to what I have read this is a good grind overall http://www.ihpartsamerica.com/store/COMP-83-200-4.html

On the rear bearing it is important that the entire bearing is set far enough into the block that it allows the oil to travel

out from the center cam hole and go left and right into the block galleys

You did not mention what your plans for your valve train are ?? specifically the rocker arm shafts and rockers , at the very least they should be

completely disassembled (including plugs in end of shafts) cleaned and checked , Their is oil ports in the rocker stands and in the welded style

rocker arms that your engine has , The oil from the shaft lubes the rocker arm bushing which in turn has oil ports to the push rod ball and the valve

stem end .

Also what type of valve seals is your shop going to use ??

Oh by the way IHPA has pistons for your engine also , I cannot say enough good things about IHPA ,Those guys will absolutely do what it takes to help

out their customers , I try to support them whenever possible

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I have been on IHPA's site all last evening and today researching haha, but going back to the manufacturers sites for further info on the different cams. I have been looking over a few different IH forum posts regarding 304 cam grinds, I am leaning towards the 260 duration "RV" Comp Cam kit. It sure seems like a lot for the money in terms of a matched cam/lifter/spring combo, spring keepers, valve seals, and timing gears.

Thanks for the info on that rear cam bearing, it will definitely be something I check, recheck, and check again during assembly.

Your are right Kevin, I didn't mention the rocker assemblies. They are getting completely disassembled, cleaned, and checked. Initial inspection of the rockers and bushings found them to be in pretty good condition already, but will dig down deeper.

Thank you for all your input, this is further than I was really hoping to have to dig into a 60k mile motor, but oh well, going to do it right the one time.

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It seems as though the longer the old binders sit , The worse off they are , some guys have been regularly using their trucks

since new and had very few problems , and other folks with low original miles have had to do rebuilds very similar to our engines

Fella on another site has a saying , "Red runs good if you promise to use it " sounds like he knows what's up :)

Just in case this outfit knows IH rockers and shafts http://www.rockerarms.com/pages/international.html

And if your wallet can stand it http://murphysmotorservice.com/ih345.htm

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I think my wallet already hates me just know what I am about to buy for this motor. On the bright side, this whole engine should cost me about what two rear brake drums would have if mine didn't turn out perfect.

It does seem that sitting is what kills them the most. Especially the cam bearings after someone dry starts one after a year or so. I cringe anytime some online says they started an old binder by just "throwing some new gas in it and putting in a battery".

I realized that I forgot to tell you about the valve seals. I am going to see what seals come with the Comp Cams kit, O-ring or top hat. If they are O-ring, then I will probably get a set of the older Ford top-hat style. I ran standard O-ring valve seals in the 345 I rebuilt in my Scout and get the occasional start-up smoke puff due to them. I am just come to adore it as an IH quirk.

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Kevin, I was following that thread on BP about wipped cams and bad lifters...scared me enough to order a set of Johnson lifters from IHPA along with the Comp Cam. That thread made me dig a little deeper into the Comp Cam lifters and I couldn't get a verified answer as to who makes their lifters and where. Some people were saying India, and some people where complaining how noisy they were. Was enough to make me order the made in USA Johnson lifters that IHPA just got in. Will have a US made Comp Cams 260H grind camshaft, with Johnson lifters and heavier valve springs. I think a good combination.

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It sounds like a very nice combo , There is another thread "snow scout" by Tom Mandera , worth reading ,He was having cam and lifter issues also ,

Apparently a few of the shops/people who rebuild these flat tappet engines run a very light valve spring on them just for the "break in" of the cam and lifters

then after verifying everything spins correctly and the requisite 20 minutes or so break in time at the required rpm's etc, They swap in the heavier duty springs .

Honestly I have never done this , Maybe a stopgap measure for inferior parts , Hopefully the lifter issues are behind us now :)

Are you going to do anything else with the heads ?? porting , polishing etc

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Yeah, sounds like a requirement if you are not using the best parts in the first place. Just talked to IHPA and they are shipping me my lifters today from their latest batch that they posted pics of on BP. Not really doing much more to the heads besides valve job and decking them. I know you can do some performance things to these engines but it definitely adds cost quickly. May look at port matching at the very least. I know Tom was using a Comp Cams kit with cam and lifters In that Snow Scout build if I remember correctly, that may be where his problem is coming from.

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Well, it looks like this project is now going towards the 4X4 direction. Picked up a set of early '60s 6-lug IH axles with 4.88 gears, new brakes, new bearings, working IH lock-outs and all for $250. Dana 44HD and a 60. Since my current Dana 60 in the truck is in great condition and has 3.73 gears, I am thinking or regearing the 44HD to 3.73 and not swapping in the other 60. This morning while it was still cool out, I pushed the truck out and got the axles into my shop. Spring purchases measure up exactly with my currently install I-beam axle, and I got some decent u-bolt plates with shock mounts that will work for the front setup. Moved some things around the shop to give myself more working room and in anticipation for my engine's return here next week.

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A few more. Pushing axles and that truck around today wore me out a bit.

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Holy Moly you pushed that truck in there by yourself , :) I would be takin a nap !!!

Funny you are going 4wd and I am thinkin about 2wheelin my T-all , Must be an IH thing LOL !

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Holy Moly you pushed that truck in there by yourself , :) I would be takin a nap !!!

Funny you are going 4wd and I am thinkin about 2wheelin my T-all , Must be an IH thing LOL !

Hmm, are you going to be in need of an IH front I-beam axle? haha. I did push it in, it's a lot easier when all the wheels spin and the engines out now. Surprisingly, I now have two sets of split rims with tubbed tires from the 60/70's that all hold air!

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Some engine porn for you all.

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I reused every IH stamped bolt that was on this motor. Even the bellhouseing alignment dowels are marked "IH" and "Made in U.S.A". Also scored an original windshield washer bottle and the original transfer case mounts.

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That's a very nice looking rebuild !!!! I Like !!! good score on the wiper bottle ,They are getting pretty tough to find :)

IH Bolts are just cool -- Did you have to rebuild the rocker shafts/arms ???

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That's a very nice looking rebuild !!!! I Like !!! good score on the wiper bottle ,They are getting pretty tough to find :)

IH Bolts are just cool -- Did you have to rebuild the rocker shafts/arms ???

Yes! I am quite happy to find the bottle, one of the few missing parts on my truck. My rocker shafts were worn from lack of top-end oiling so I got a rebuilt pair from IH Parts America.

Final specs;

Bored .020 with contoured Silv-O-Lite pistons.

Crankshaft ground .010.

CompCams Hy-Energy 1-5000 RPM 260 duration cam.

Hy-Lift Johnson lifters.

CompCams timing gears.

Heads milled to accept thicker head gaskets.

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