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73IH810

'67 1200B Project

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In between the snow and ice storms the last few weeks I was able to get to the shop and get a few things done on the truck. Pulled the cooling fan and pulley off of the water pump so I can replace the pump when I flush the system. I was able to get the rear freeze plug out of the plug by laying on top of the motor and using a long screwdriver to pry against the block until the whole plug popped out. It was weeping along the edges and the center did not seem to have corrosion on the inside. I am still debating if I want to replace all the freeze plugs since I have easy access to them. Today I was able to drill out the bolts holding the fuel tank straps and drop the tank out. I only had about a gallon of gas left in it. Found a couple holes along where the front strap rested on the side of the tank, but the metal next to these holes was still quite strong. Hopefully I can have it sealed up still. I could hear some crap falling around in the tank when I rotated it, so it definitely needs to be cleaned out.

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Here are a few pics of the underside of the cab where the fuel tank was and the transmission tunnel. Very solid and not much but moss and spider nests above the fuel tank.

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Thanks for the update.

It's lookin good.

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i would replace the all the freeze plugs now while you have the easyest access.

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Well first things, scored a nice set of IH mirrors that fit the brackets that came on the doors. Pulled the water pump off and found it pretty clean behind. Continued removing the cooling tubes and the freeze plugs in the front of the block and in the front/rear of the heads. Got the oil fill and dipstick tubes out so I can reinstall the block freeze plugs. Removed the fuel pump, which appears to be the original with the glass filter and fuel lines. Also finally checked the block plate and verified it is a 304 haha.

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I went ahead and put the rims and tires back on so I can roll it outside this week and flush out the cooling passages. Then I can finally start some reassembly. I also went ahead and made a new cable to connect the drivers and passenger seat slide locks together. The original wire was broken and very fragile. Got all the heater/vent cables unhooked and removed along with the frozen dash controls and the heater box. I have a new set of heater controls to install along with a much better heater box.

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Very nice looking original dash , Very fortunate that no one decided to mount radio's or aftermarket gauges in it .

And the amount of rust is definitely manageable :)

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My thoughts are to keep the dash as is. Just rewire it and have functioning gauges. Maybe have the dash pad fixed. It just has the right amount of wear to it.

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Well I talked myself into pulling the engine out of the truck to replace the two rear block freeze plugs behind the flywheel. I will also use this time to replace the rear main, clutch, throw-out bearing, and probably the front shaft seal on the transmission. Realized pretty quickly that I didn't have a whole lot more to take off to accomplish this. Disconnected the exhaust from the manifolds and got all the rest of the wiring off of the engine today. Had a nice score and picked up a 4 ton engine crane for under $200 this morning. Went ahead and installed an intake manifold lifting plate using 1" grade 8, 5/16-18 bolts with fender washers. I looked up these bolts and found the clamp load to be 4,718 lbs so I am not too worried to use this lift plate to pull the engine forward and set it down on some tires. My plan is to disconnect the engine from the bellhousing, leave the the bellhousing and transmission in the truck with a floor jack holding the back of the transmission in place to save the rubber mounts. I am going to unbolt the engine mounts from the front cross member and then remove that cross member completely. This should give me over a foot of room to move the engine forward off of the transmission before I have to lift it up slightly to clear the front frame. Sound like this will work? Any input is appreciated.

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Pretty sure if you let the front axle hang (jackstands under frame ,take wheels off )

or is it mainly crossmember interfering with oil pan , , if so oil pan and pump come off fairly easy

You won't have to take the crossmember out ,

Good deal on the floor crane !!

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It is pretty much just the oil pan hitting the cross member. Thing is, I could crawl underneath to remove the pan and pump. Or just take the four bolts holding the cross member in when I unbolt the engine mounts that bolt to the same member. Just seemed like an easier path or I'm just being lazy haha.

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Whatever gets it done brother :)

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Got all of the bellhousing bolts and flywheel inspection plate bolts out today. Those bolts really wanted the impact to remove them but I guess they've been torqued since 1967! Did not see any evidence of a rear main seal leak on the inside of the flywheel inspection plate, just surface rust from lack of oil. Nice to see all the teeth on the flywheel present and in good shape. Removed the starter and bungied it to the frame so I can trace the wiring to the new starter's solenoid when it comes in. Had to park the front tires onto 3/4" pieces of plywood to get the front axle to juuuust clear the outriggers on the engine crane. I can't believe how low the front axle sits on this thing. I was also able to removed the entire exhaust system to get it out of the way as well. Have a floor jack supporting the rear of the transmission and only the front mounts holding the engine. Put a little pressure of the engine crane and can see the engine splitting about 1/8" from the bellhousing. Hopefully I can get it out this week as long as I'm not too busy, otherwise it will have to wait till next weekend.

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Had to fight off some red wasps that decided to take advantage of the warm day and hang around my shop, but was able to loosen the front motor mounts and get the engine removed from the truck. Had to raise the engine up a little, and pry around the starter hole with a screwdriver before it separated from the bellhouseing. Lifted it up and out of the truck and partially rested it on some 18" tires I got from a local tire shop for free.

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Got the clutch assembly removed off of the block. Will probably get a new unit to replace this one. The disc was dry but had wear, the pressure plate assembly had some rust. Flywheel looked good, should be able to have it resurfaced. The original National rear main seal was installed and had an "IH" stamped into it. Found the rear freeze plugs to be very corroded and easily punctured, so this was worth it. Got the block mounted to a 1k lb engine stand which seems to be holding it level. Just had to make some new mounting holes on the head to get the arms to the right positions for the block.

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Inverted the engine on the stand and started removing the oil pan. Was surprised to see a fairly clean bottom end on this. Was expecting at least some build-up. Pump screen was mostly clear even. The cylinder walls I could see, crank, and connecting rods were rust free and had an oil sheen on them.

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And now the bad....

After I took the oil pan off, I started to sift through the 1/2" of sludge at the bottom. Wedge underneath around the drain plug mount was all these small, thin, flexible pieces of non-ferrous metal. At first I figured they were bearing, but I cleaned one up and tried to scratch into it thinking I would find a copper layer which I did not. Any ideas what this is from?

Went ahead and removed some main bearing caps as I was planning to check their clearance. But sure enough, found copper showing on all of them. So it looks like I may just be doing a re-bearing job on this engine. Haven't dug much further into it but I'm figuring all bearings, camshaft w/ lifters, valve job, polish the crankshaft, and seals/gaskets.

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Looks like camshaft bearings unfortunately , SV8's have a few bad habits and cam bearings is one of them

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Not surprised that it's cam bearings. Exactly what the 345 in my Scout did too. Guess I'll build a motor/truck to outlast me now!

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Good pics

May as well do the entire engine since your this far!

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Good pics

May as well do the entire engine since your this far!

I'm thinking that's what I'll have to do. It is a fairly low mileage engine so I'm thinking piston rings, can/crank/rod bearings, camshaft, and valve job.

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Any updates ?? If it turns out to be the cam bearings , most often they seem to delaminate ,Leaving the outer part of the bearing still in place

which is kind of a good thing because it preserves the block , Got my fingers crossed for you :)

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Any updates ?? If it turns out to be the cam bearings , most often they seem to delaminate ,Leaving the outer part of the bearing still in place

which is kind of a good thing because it preserves the block , Got my fingers crossed for you :)

Due to the small amount of material in the pan and how thin it was, I am betting the cam bearing delaminated. I will be taking it to a machine shop in Harrison, AR next Friday to have it cleaned up, crank/cam/rods inspected, and heads/valves looked at. I will give an update with what we find. Fingers crossed that it just needs bearings!

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Welp, still waiting to hear back from the machine shop. I know he had a lot of engines lined up and I'm in no real hurry on it. Decided to take a look at the brakes on the truck and figure out how screwed I am with the drums and what to do next, ie. front disc conversion or 4x4 axle swap. Found the front brake components to be in pretty good condition, quite a bit of shoe left. First drum no serious gouges or lip from being turned before. Was a little exited by that until I took the front right drum off and found it to have some gouges going the entire diameter of the inside. Decided that since I needed a 2-3/4" socket for the rear axles to get the drums off, that I might as well have the machinist at the Orielly's look at the drum. He wasn't completely sure, but wanted to turn it and see what would happen. After only one pass, we ended up with one heck of a nice surface.

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Went on to the rear brakes. Pulled the axle shafts and found nothing wrong with the splines at all, so that was a relief. Got the lock nuts and bearings out of the hub. Seals and bearings were all marked "National", "Made in the USA", and "IHC" The bearings looked to be in new condition, then again they only have 67.5k miles on them. I am almost tempted to just lightly pack and reuse these bearings. I figure they are probably much better material than even a new National... Got the drums/hubs pulled off and didn't see any serious gouges, about the same as the one in the front that turned out. I will dropped the rears and the other front off this week to get them turned. This Dana 60 really makes me like the one in my F250, since you don't have to pull the hub off to get the disc/drum off of the axle. I guess that's 37 years of progress.

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