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Kevingweq

1967 Travelall More like it !!!

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Part of the reasoning for purchasing the non-stock cam was it's claims of "good mid-range power"

and a "decent idle" in a nutshell ,as installed it did not give a decent idle , After reading the complete

instruction sheet provided with cam ,the last paragraph states that the cam timing may need to be

changed to get the best results , After seeking advice from many sources

I advanced the cam 1 tooth , which brought the intake lobe centerline to approx 106 degs.

This may not sound like a big change , But it made a significant difference in idle quality, vacuum

and reduced the need for advanced timing ,

Entirely my fault for not degreeing the cam when installed , So in hopes that anyone considering

running a non-stock cam (mild or wild ) takes the time to DEGREE the cam while assembling the engine :)

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Thought about cowl rust issues on the 60's round body trucks #1,I wanted to keep the cowl vents

working like original #2 Wanted access to keep things clean and draining like intended #3 wanted to stop

any rust,crud and corruption in it's tracks.

Took a deep breath and started cutting .

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The cowl box is in pretty good shape -fortunately

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The rusty area around the vent opening was caused by a big old handful of body putty or sealer

it was shaped to divert any water around the fresh air intake and out the drains

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I am still cleaning and wire brushing the loose stuff in the hard to reach areas ,

I am thinking of sealing the joint where the putty was with urethane windshield glue.

(it dries completely odorless and very strong )

Then I want to apply something?? to the whole inside of the cowl to treat and stop the rust ,

I am thinking "eastwoods internal frame coating" Any thoughts ,suggestions ??

Made up a couple of inspection ports ,wanted them to be simple and clean ,

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Kevin. I use undercoating for almost everything. First i hit it with a rattle can of rust converter. Then hose it down with rubberized undercoating

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I did a bit more research and opted to use Eastwood "Internal Frame" Coating on the airbox ,

Mostly because it comes in easy to use cans with a sprayer hose and nozzle setup ,

First I tried to replicate the sealer around the vent openings with windshield urethane ,

It worked good but took a while to dry thoroughly ( quite thick in places)

I taped some mechanics wire on the plastic hose ( for more control) 2 cans treated the airbox, and

door pillars with 2 coats .

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I was having trouble spraying metallic urethane paint ( and it was getting freakin expensive to screw up )

So I decided to change up , Get all modern and up to date and started shooting base coat /clear coat .

There was still a bit of a learning curve ,But the results are really improving ( but not perfect by any means )

If anybody has any tips on spraying clear flat and smooth, Brother I am all ears :)

I have got to the point where it takes a super light cut and buff to get it flat , Am using Napa 56 base coat

and House of Kolor clear . Over epoxy primer wet sanded /blocked to 800 grit

Primed

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Sharp eyes will spot the run in the clear , This is about

12 hours dry time after clear

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Light orange peel , about equivalent to todays factory paint jobs.

There is 2 schools of thought on whether to cut and buff flat

leaving it alone really strengthens the surface against rock chips etc,

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Great job. Nice to be able to follow a project through a post like this. Makes me want to go dive back into my D30 truck project.

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Thank You Oldiron !! D30 project well well . I love the rounded style of the D's , One of my favorites .

Believe me when I say ,I literally have to force myself out to the garage sometimes , especially when I get overwhelmed ,

Then I usually organize something and dive back in again :) Well I block sanded the clear coat 800, 1200, 2000 grit paper

then one quick spin of the buffer with some 3M polishing compound (medium cut) Here is the results

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When I layed the clear coat on one slip of the trigger and a big ugly sag tried to fall off on the floor ,

Let it dry for a day then

I applied a bit of glazing putty (fine bondo ) right over the sag and started block sanding , Hey it worked !!!

I am not quite done with this little area yet the bottom of the clear coat needed to cure some more but about

90% of the sag is gone, Talk about nerve wracking

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I have been working on the Travelall doors lately , They have to be some of the Heaviest doors made !!!!

I really envy the pickup guys with only two of them :)

The forged hinges are pretty heavy duty also, But the weight takes it's toll over the years ,

Some of the front bottom hinges and and rear side door hinges have seized up or broken pins ,

They need some heating and beating to get the old pin out

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I take a 3/8" reamer ( nice tight fit) and enlarge the top and middle section then tap

the bottom piece out to 3/8" 16

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Then a 3-1/2" gr8 shoulder bolt works well , There is just enough shoulder

that the threads do not gall the hinge pivot

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If needed the bolt can be tightened a bit to control any up and down slop

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The front door upper hinges have a spring loaded mechanism to hold the door open

What happens is the little pin and bearing that rides in the notches, wears and shears off.

First grind the broken pin flat

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Center punch, Drill and tap, I used a 10/32 machine screw

Then with the help of a couple of small bars , out pops the little bugger

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About a year ago or so I repaired the "holder opener" on the drivers door

I drilled and tapped for a gr-5 5/16 bolt , I even made up a plain steel bearing

greased it up and it worked really well , Until -----

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This truck has not even been used !!! The door has probably been opened 150 times or so.

There must be a whole lot of pressure on the poor little pin and bearing

Well hopefully these cure the problem

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I had 10 sets of approx Gr-8 steel ones made and 10 sets of stainless (pm me if you need more info)

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I am also going to test out some slightly less rugged springs

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Just bumping the thread to page one. Any new updates on your restoration?

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Thanks for the Bump Bob ! :)    updates will be coming , Work has been crazy --- I think I am working

twice as hard for half the money ,  I hope something changes come november

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That's a cast iron 4V intake, none ever made for 304 or 266. 345 and 392 are tall deck, intake is wider.

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The small amount of rust showing on the surface of the wheel well lip looked like a relatively easy repair--- Wrong again:)

But at least it is back to a resemblance of normal ,  After reconstructing the inner lip I started forming the other patch panels ,

There is NO aftermarket support for this area of the truck , It is no wheres near perfect but it is almost all steel .

 

Aside from rust and rot the inner lip and wheel well were pretty bent up

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All these patch pieces have some tricky bends

took some time to beat them into submission

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Big gaping hole all closed in

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This is before any fillers or hammer /dolly work

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Here is after the first round of filler and nitpicking

Still needs some finesse

tall rear quarter 002 (800x450).jpg

tall rear quarter 001 (800x450).jpg

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Just bumping this thread to page 1so you can quickly find this thread when your work slows and you time to share any work you've done to the travel all

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Bump.

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Kevin you are amazing.  I here and there look here and wow.  You love that rig!

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Kevin are you painting it aspen green or bahama blue. The body looks bahama blue but the computer makes the hood look aspen green.

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On 3/27/2017 at 8:21 PM, Eason said:

Kevin are you painting it aspen green or bahama blue.

Thanks for all the bumps and comments guys :)  Updates soon ,

Eason the color is "Turquoise Metallic"  ,  It's pretty tough to get a good idea of the color with all

the variables , type of lighting , phone camera or digital camera etc,

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I apologize to all the folks who follow my adventures with my Travelall and lack of recent updates

, Here is a peek at an accessory that I have wanted ,,, well yearned for ,,  No gosh darn it !!     I  Have Lusted for one !!

I sold some items dear to me to get it ,  A Genuwine  IH  International  8 Track Tape Player  :)

Friggin thing looks sweet,  waterproof speakers and all

And I need some help and or suggestions where to mount it in the cab .  Any thoughts appreciated.

 

PS

I may have to tackle some smaller details on the project for now ,and leave the bigger stuff for later .

A few setbacks in the health department may slow me down this season on my updates and restoration .

Can't begin to tell all of you how much your comments and inspiration have helped me with this project .

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Put a couple pics here of the real estate available for the 8 track ,,  

Check out the knobs :)  exact match !!

One other item that will be installed at some point will be a big ol glitzy CB radio

one with lots of chrome and dials , I welcome any suggestions on make and models for

my research into that also .

Air conditioning is a possibility but I have not made any decisions on an upgraded stock or a full blown

vintage air "hidden system "   The AC box really eats up under dash room

 

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Here is piccy of T-all with AC

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I painted the back of my bumper same color as the body ,   Why you ask ?   Well the back of my bumpers are no wheres near as nice

as the shiny front chrome and they had started to rust a bit ,  The brackets were very rusty so they got the Evaporust /Harbor freight ultrasonic

cleaner treatment ,  Everything got epoxy primer and then some paint ,  The bumpers got a flat version of turquoise metallic ,

I found that the back up lights were available as GM /El Camino- parts ,  I am not sure if the license plate lights are correct ?? but they fit well :)

Quite fortunate to find the bumper on (you guessed it Ebay) brand new .  And the IH bumper bolts were found NOS from a fellow

Binder Nut over on the planet .

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ih travelall bumper 001.jpg

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