Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Kevingweq

1967 Travelall More like it !!!

Recommended Posts

The motor is coming along, Thank Goodness ,Don't think the engine stand can take much more :)

attachicon.gif20150807_112426 (1024x768).jpg

Edelbrock carb? Nice upgrade.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Edelbrock 1406 , I kind of like them ,I am more familiar with Holley's but it is super easy to clean and tune

Couple more shots of IH Engine Porn

post-77390-0-13677700-1438999803_thumb.j

post-77390-0-77273500-1438999853_thumb.j

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Had some difficulty finding a new or rebuilt clutch disc , I know I could of had mine relined but work has been nuts lately.

I called up Fort Wayne Clutch , Fella answered , I told him I had a 1967 International Travelall and needed just a clutch disc.

He answered with a question "12 inch clutch" I said Yes , He said I don't have one on the shelf ,But I will put one together

and ship it tomorrow morning . 2 days later box shows up ,and inside is a brand new clutch disc that could not look any

more like the original :)

post-77390-0-17534800-1442671402_thumb.j

post-77390-0-66766200-1442672159_thumb.j

post-77390-0-08631700-1442671434_thumb.j

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

kevin. i always buy the oreilly brand power torque clutch sets for my ih's. 11 or 12 inch 300-350 bucks. lifetime warranty. pressure plate. tob. allignment tool. clutch plate

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks runner ! If I had needed the whole setup , probably would have opted for something like o-reillys

I scored a nos pressure plate for $50 on ebay ,picked up bearings at napa ,and the disc cost $90 shipped from Fort Wayne :)

I do like lifetime warranty though, I bought a new Front track bar for my 96 Ram (moog lifetime guarantee) in 2000. they have

coughed up 5 of them so far .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks runner ! If I had needed the whole setup , probably would have opted for something like o-reillys

I scored a nos pressure plate for $50 on ebay ,picked up bearings at napa ,and the disc cost $90 shipped from Fort Wayne :)

I do like lifetime warranty though, I bought a new Front track bar for my 96 Ram (moog lifetime guarantee) in 2000. they have

coughed up 5 of them so far .

ahh the awesome lifetime warranty. kevin. this pickall is looking amazing. keep up the stellar work

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

While the front end sheetmetal was off ,Checked out the fenders and found a bit of corruption

behind the mounting brace , only about 10 spot welds holding it in place ,Was able to section some fresh metal in

post-77390-0-66132100-1442709569_thumb.j

post-77390-0-86221900-1442709592_thumb.j

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is probably one of the more difficult jobs ,Requires lots of patience ,( wish I could afford to have it done ) :)

post-77390-0-69856400-1442709826_thumb.j

post-77390-0-13991000-1442709973_thumb.j

My buddy restores pre-war Mercedes and he gave me a couple of tips on welding , 1/4 inch weld then stop

and peen the weld (back up with dolly)after it's cooled (and pulled ) peen until the gap is back to where you started ,

With a lot more practice this method would really work well

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In between waiting for bits and pieces to arrive in the mailbox , I decided that vacuum power brakes may

be a good option to install , Krusty the parts travelall willingly donated the necessary parts to make this happen.

The correct master cylinder plate got cleaned up and installed , I noticed that there was no factory seal or gasket

where it bolts up to the firewall ,Took the time to make one up

post-77390-0-52108100-1443100367_thumb.j

post-77390-0-08566700-1443100393_thumb.j

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a question for the folks with this era trucks or travelalls

How far off the floor is the brake pedal ??

post-77390-0-52166200-1443100886_thumb.j

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can't answer to the distance, but do have a note. Check the firewall for flex. Yours may not, but my 64 Loadstar did. More than you would expect. Not sure if it helped or hurt pedal feel.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In between waiting for bits and pieces to arrive in the mailbox , I decided that vacuum power brakes may

be a good option to install , Krusty the parts travelall willingly donated the necessary parts to make this happen.

The correct master cylinder plate got cleaned up and installed , I noticed that there was no factory seal or gasket

where it bolts up to the firewall ,Took the time to make one up

attachicon.gif20150901_095218 (1024x768).jpg

attachicon.gif20150901_225541 (1024x768).jpg

Was that picture taken before everything was tightened u? If not you might want to put a longer bolt/stud in. Keep the pictures coming I cant wait to see the finished product.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks MD , I dont know if the firewall flexes --yet , Reason being I took the original master cylinder from Krusty and

sandblasted it ,ground all the rust pits down, sanded it nice and smooth, carefully honed the bore , found a rebuild kit

for it (IH no less) painted it with 2 part epoxy primer , then urethane paint ,

Pretty Krusty eh ??

post-77390-0-18816900-1443140534_thumb.j

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ground it down

post-77390-0-96899200-1443140613_thumb.j

Painted it and rebuilt it

post-77390-0-54022300-1443140641_thumb.j

And it leaked like a rusty sieve, Just sitting on the shelf :)

Well back to my earlier question , I found out through measuring that my pedal travel is more than enough to stroke the master cylinder fully ,

prior to the pedal touching the floor, this is possible because of the linkage setup out on the firewall , The manual brake setup definitely had the pedal further from the floor at rest ,

Hence the question of brake pedal height , One interesting tidbit ,There is adjustment holes on the brake light switch bracket ,I moved the bracket towards the firewall and the brake light switch

did not require any other adjustment ( almost like it was designed for the change of pedal height )

Bob , good eye !! the mounting nuts and bolts were not tightened yet

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am still needing a floor to brake pedal measurement for a vacuum power brake truck 67/68 vintage please.

I have been doing a little tinkering on the Travelall ,But have been unable to spend more than hour or two

here and there. But here is some pictures of the engine installed , along with a power brake system,

I decided that there should be a flexible hose of some sort on the hydraulic clutch pressure line, Previously

it was a solid brake line , Well in my mind the master is mounted to the cab and the slave is mounted to

the engine/transmission ,There must be some moving and shaking going on that a brake line might not like :)

post-77390-0-16199700-1448233444_thumb.j

post-77390-0-80651900-1448233459_thumb.j

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I took the best shiny grill insert I could find and cleaned it up , and carefully tapped out a few wrinkles

and creases and put it in the grill surround , The IH emblem cleaned up pretty good and the black

lettering got touched up with some model paint , The clips that hold the grill in are da** near impossible

to get on or off !!! Maybe someone makes special pliers , Too late now though ,The cuts and gouges are

already healing on my hands :)

post-77390-0-98577200-1448234186_thumb.j

post-77390-0-33016400-1448234204_thumb.j

I am wondering what material the gaskets that went around the headlight buckets , and also where the fenders join

together are made of ?? I have heard they were sprayed with some sort of anti-corrosion chemical ??

Any ideas what to use ??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow is that thing gorgeous. My W300 Dodge has the same clutch/slave/mc setup. Never gave much to flex in the line. I had the same deal on a vintage mc that didn't take a rebuild. Had to have it resleeved. Tight as a wedge now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Runner I finally got a hold of a good one from a friend , It was a Bendix reman from 1975 :)

I popped the piston out before I painted it up and all the rubbers looked great , Bench bled it and bolted

it on ,Left the lines just a bit loose pumped it twice and the pedal came up rock hard , Tightened the lines

up and called it good ,

Thanks for the kind words exSW , Sometimes I get a bit overwhelmed and a few days of not working on the truck

makes it more fun and less like work , :D

Found this neat little old timey accessory online and I couldn't resist

Best thing is it works mint !!

post-77390-0-90518400-1448331426_thumb.j

post-77390-0-81105600-1448331443_thumb.j

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I took the best shiny grill insert I could find and cleaned it up , and carefully tapped out a few wrinkles

and creases and put it in the grill surround , The IH emblem cleaned up pretty good and the black

lettering got touched up with some model paint , The clips that hold the grill in are da** near impossible

to get on or off !!! Maybe someone makes special pliers , Too late now though ,The cuts and gouges are

already healing on my hands :)

attachicon.giftravelall grill (5) (1024x576) (1024x576).jpg

attachicon.giftravelall grill (2) (1024x576) (1024x576).jpg

I am wondering what material the gaskets that went around the headlight buckets , and also where the fenders join

together are made of ?? I have heard they were sprayed with some sort of anti-corrosion chemical ??

Any ideas what to use ??

I had my grill off and had fits working with those clips, trying to put it back together.

My grill allowed me to get into it with an extension on my driver, and put some small self tapping screws in the edges.

Not factory, but just enough screws to do the job.

post-43251-0-86437200-1448633159_thumb.j

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What a beeyootiful truck Mark !! ,Thanks for sharing I guess a bit of bloodshed is a small price to pay for shiny chrome :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This one has me scratching my head, If I hook up the timing light on my 67 345 freshly reconditioned , rings ,bearings, Cam (RV spec)

Set timing at about 10-12 deg BTDC The engine sounds late ,way late , vacuum very low 12 in's ,bring the timing up to about 22 deg

and she runs very nice ,vacuum comes up to 16-17 ins , Runs great, I have verified TDC #8 matches crankshaft timing marks , I have

verified with my pix of assembly that cam to crank gear marks were spot on , I can actually bring timing to 26-27 deg's before it will buck

a bit when starting ,

1978 prestolite distributor with Pertronix points replacement installed , Any thoughts ???

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After a bit of investigation , Decided that the front of the motor had to come apart to degree my new camshaft ,

I installed the new cam "straight up " with marks aligned, per instructions supplied with cam (more on this later)

I ordered up a new degree wheel, having not seen my old one in 15 years LOL ( it will show up now though )

After checking cam timing as installed it was determined that the intake lobe centerline line was at 114 degrees

with stock compression this is a bit retarded, resulting in low cylinder pressure and the need for lots of timing advance.

Here is the fancy used timing wheel ( $20 ebay)

and the engine set at true Top Dead Center

post-77390-0-78175000-1452179872_thumb.j

To make sure TDC was spot on I had to make or buy a piston stop

I made one from a compression tester adapter and a long 3/8 " bolt

post-77390-0-14333300-1452180017_thumb.j

The design of the rocker arm/shaft does not make it easy to get a dial indicator

reading from a valve lifter

Took a lifter and removed the guts , fitted a 5/16 rod of proper length ( bit longer than pushrod )

filled the whole lifter with solder to anchor the rod , and put the necessary bends in the rod

to be able to comfortably mount up a dial indicator

post-77390-0-61590600-1452180964_thumb.j

Note that my indicator mount conveniently had a stud that screwed right into the valve cover bolt hole :)

post-77390-0-54529700-1452180441_thumb.j

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...