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1967 Travelall More like it !!!

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Pulled a box off the shelf and it was marked "gear set SV8" it contained 2 NOS timing gears

part #s ( 151 059 R2 cam gear) ( 151 050 R2 crank gear)

The original timing gears on my 67 345 are marked ( 151 059 R1 cam ) (151 050 R1 crank)

They are the same diameter but the helical teeth are cut the opposite direction , Which would (I believe)

thrust the camshaft towards the front of the motor instead of towards the rear of motor like the originals ,

I have heard differing explanations, including the part # suffix R1,R2,R3,R4 denotes different cam timing ,

the new gear does appear to be half tooth off from original

,just wondering if anybody has more info on these gear sets ??



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Is the cam gear offset to match?

That is a little odd that only an R number changed. All the older stuff required a base change for something that drastic. Guess they didn't want to deal with disparate part numbers.

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Yes the cam gear is offset also , From the info I have found so far , A very well respected IH guru who did

a writeup on rebuilding the SV engines mentioned in his writeup about the timing gears being set for less

cam advance the higher the suffix # R1 = most advance R3 and a possible R4 = least advance, Each tooth

being 4 degrees , Then another Sharp fella says that the 2 gear sets I have when actually installed will not change

the timing (even though at first glance you would think so ) I will verify this when the engine is further assembled ,

Now I have already decided to use my original gear set ,For the reason of the direction of thrust , and another reason

related to the thrust , First --- There has been quite a few cam and lifter failures on recent rebuilds , Some have been blamed

on companies supplying made in china lifters ( possible) sealed power now made in china. Bad cam blanks and grinds (possible ) My theory is thrusting cam towards front

takes the cam away from the sweet spot of lifter contact on the cam that makes the lifter spin , Lifters (new ) are very slightly convex and cams when new

are slightly ramped ,Both to induce spin, Most failures appear to be lack of lifter spin (straight line wear) Until I started serious study on

lifters and cams I did not realize how precision they really are .

Another note on the gears , apparently IH had changed the cut of gears way back in the late 60's early 70's (only heresay no real info yet) and most aftermarket suppliers have followed suit

with the same cut all being opposite of my gears EXCEPT Comp cams they have never changed and remain the same as my originals

Another note on cam thrust , I have read where the ramp of the cam SOLELY controls cam thrust , I can understand this for a timing chain engine

they actually require additional mods to control thrust when roller rockers are used (cam button etc) But the thrust force created by helical gears

would far outweigh the lifter/cam thrust

Exaggerated depiction of cam and lifter shape when new


Picture of comp cams gear set


Gary , Perhaps you and your brother might give opinions on my theory ??

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Yes, those gears will dominate thrust. It not really a contest. I could see shifting the cam to change the wear bands.

I have never pulled an IH cam so have little to say. Is the back side of the gear the actual thrust surface?

Normally the actual cam fore/aft position is not that special, as the entire lobe surface is tilted. Given a failure choice, I would kinda go with poor metal first, then mismatched surfaces. A new cam with mismatched lifters will cause spin fail. Especially if the lifter bevel is too steep or the lobe angle too shallow. A tiny bit matters. Normally the lifter would be a bit flat and allowed to wear into position.

I am fairly sure IH changed timing to alleviate some of the emissions problems. If you recall, testing was typically done at idle and 2500 rpm I believe. No load too, so badly representative of a engine in use. So IH adjusted some to suit the test.

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I wanted to make sure I could get my grubby paws on some "original" head gaskets before charging along on

my rebuild , Nice package arrived today , Very reasonable at $16 per


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M Diesel on the camshaft thrust , Yes the back of gear thrusts against a plate , with an opposite cut gear , the rear of plate and front

of camshaft would contact , there is only a wee bit of endplay .006 if I remember right .

I thought that somebody had smeared black silicone on the Harmonic Balancer until I started peeling it off

with my fingernail ,,,, Ohhh Crap that don't look good , But this one that showed up today looks much nicer NOS $65

Quite surprised with the reasonable prices so far on needed parts , Way better prices than the Chrome bits (like headlight rings)

blinkers fog lights etc,


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Here is a picture of a NOS rear cam bearing installed in my engine, Notice plenty of room for oil to go left and right from cam


Here is a picture of another engine that is experiencing problems (waiting for full report )

I believe this bearing is a sealed power installed by competent machine shop ( as far as recommended )

Notice how far towards the rear of the engine it is installed , It appears to almost totally block off the oil grooves

to the left and right , The oil pressure comes from the journal connecting rear main and rear cam bearing ,

As the cam rotates a cross drilled journal in the cam lines up , Oil travels into the journal and out the center

hole in cam , Then travels left and right to lifters .


Bear in mind a flat plate bolts on and covers this arrangement

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Ebay has definitely helped on this rebuild , 8 Brand New in the box Piston ring sets showed up in the mailbox today :)

Total cost for rings $19.95 plus $5.21 shipping $25.16

Wow the way they package the ring sets really brings back memories of my younger years , The wax paper and the way

they are folded , Must be 20 years or more since I opened one up


Here is a new ring pushed down in the cylinder , With an old ring on top showing the difference in "end gap"


The new ring end gap is a bit out of spec by about .003 But it is going to have to be good enough for this trip :)

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I was mistaken on the ring end gap specs , I thought the max was .010 after re-reading that is the minimum gap and

the maximum gap is .020 ,The end gap of the new rings is .013 - .015 No worries :)

Every journal got the plastigauge treatment , What a pita , But better than having a failure

New main bearings , new rod bearings , And all 8 holes are full of pistons again


As each piston was installed ,A careful eye was kept on the torque needed to rotate the crankshaft

Each one added very close to 60 in lbs of torque to rotate

After all 8 were installed 35-40 ft lbs was the average required to spin the assembly


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I have never liked doing plastic, bit it has saved me a couple of times when the machine shop got loose with specs. Tedious though.

I should have caught the gap spec, but haven't done a car type piston in so long the numbers have faded away. You wouldn't want it any tighter.

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This is the cam I decided on , Hope it works out OK , any input ?? opinions ?? I was kind of looking for something

that would help overcome the big ratio gap in the T-34 5 spd trans , I also did not want anything to

aggressive. I took the carbide bits to the exhaust ports on the heads , Mostly I removed the huge bumps that were utilized for

the air injector tubes on smog engines, It is surprising how small the exhaust ports really are, You would be doing very well to

fit 2 knuckles into the area near the valve

Isky dual pattern grind

Quantity: Description
Performance camshaft. Great low end torque. Decent vacuum at idle. Fits ALL IH International Harvester 266, 304, 345, and 392 V-8 engines.
RPM RANGE: 1800-5000
Valve lift is calculated with zero lash and rocker ratio of 1.6
CAM LIFT: .281"
CAM LIFT: .290"
LOBE CENTER: 110 deg.
OVERLAP: 39 deg.
The following timing is taken at .050" lifter rise and gives a more accurate determination of camshaft position.

stock cam

Compare     .050 Dur   V.Lift   Adv Dur  Sep    Accelerated Motion #1961-80     Hydraulic Lifter Set                HT855*16      ***Stock       188/178  .445/.401  264/256  111    


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I have never been a fan of big tranny gaps. Understandable yes, but kinda lame too. Seems to be a mostly flat land kind of deal.

Can't see any reason to not like the cam. Remember way back when they called them RV cams :lol: I found that putting in higher rev cams worked better, particularly in Chevy, but they were a little more temperamental in colder weather. Not by much though. It will drive nice.

That is a tiny port. I think my 455 ports were nearly twice that. Explains a lot about IH top end habits. Unblocking that exhaust will help more than anything else. As we know, residual pressure at pump out is a biggy. Have to remember this when my 392 comes out.

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Well the big box from IHparts america arrived , No NOS, No ebay bargains , Straight up $600 dollar bill

and I am the proud owner Of an Isky bumpstick, 16 genuine Johnson Hylift lifters , a full gasket set ,

and a big pile of brass and steel freezeplugs,galley plugs ,



Installed the cam ,went in nice , It spun just a bit stiffer than the old one (I had tried it in the new cam bearings)

For grins and giggles I stuck a lifter in the bore ,Held a little tension on it while turning the engine over

and that brand new Johnson lifter was turning a bit each revolution ,Whewww good sign !! :)

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This is what ole Ed Iskendarian gives you to slather up the lobes on his new cam with


It seems to be exactly what it looks like "Good Moly Grease"

Made up a little tool (per instructions in manual ) pushes the rear main bearing cap

side seals in , Bottoms them out nicely too !!


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Oooo... shiny parts. There is always something cool about opening a box of shiny :)

Neat deal on the seal. I have never been happy about crankshaft seals and the dealing of therein <_<

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Few more pictures of shiny stuff , Extremely Happy with "Rocker Arms Unlimited " http://www.rockerarms.com/pages/rebuild.html

I sent them these shafts


And this is what they sent me back for $120


Normally they will grind the shafts and rechrome them oversize

then rebush your rockers to fit ,Mine had to be brought back to stock

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The reason for stock diameter shafts was I managed to score a complete set of NOS rockers ( super uncommon)

at my favorite auction site for $80 :)

I bought the rockers last year and when I got them they had quite a bit of surface rust on them (even though they were boxed )

So I oiled them and put them away ,Washed oil off completely and I popped them in my Harbor freight ultrasonic cleaner filled with Evaporust, 480 seconds later

what you see is the result , Could literally see the rust boil right off them



Noticed on these and all my used welded rockers the steel encased bronze bushing has an FM (Federal Mogul)

stamped into them , I don't know if federal made the whole rocker or just the bearing insert ???

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Good stuff. Really like the idea of ultrasonic and solution. That would apply to a lot of things. I need a bigger cleaner though. Mine is way dinky.

I would guess that FM only made the insert...

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I hear you on the tiny little Ultrasonic ,Kinda need a 5 gallon size , When I picked up the 2 liter one from Harbor Freight (Fathers day sale)

I opted for the full no questions asked replacement warranty , I have even used some Lye solution in it ,And I really

have not treated it nicely :ph34r: And it still works perfect :)

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The 2.5? I didn't know they had that. I have several small carbs just itching for a bath. Two in particular that refuse to clean out well.

Many have concern about the tank lip not sealing well?

I wonder if it is actually ultra sonic, but it gets great reviews so woohoo!

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Yep that's the one 2.5 liter part number #95563 , I would have to say that it is actually ultrasonic :)

Just the way it behaves and vibrates parts , It will even make your hand feel funny if you pull something out ,

The only downside is , It will only cycle for 480 seconds at a time , I wish there was a way to just leave it on .

The built in heater ,Kinda slow , But is acceptable . Overall has been a great little cleaner , Definitely makes

me want to graduate to an industrial size one :)

Yah the tank lip looks like it will let fluid right by,

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Some progress has been made ,Here is where it's at today


This next picture will show some of the tools etc that have made the job easier so far

Air powered valve spring compressor (thank god) I ended up putting stock quad ring valve seals on

the exhaust valves and some umbrella seals on the intakes ,Pictured is a valve lock installer ,works

pretty slick ,Holds both locks with spring clips ,one push and they are installed and held ,then let the valve

compressor loose and it pushes tool off,

Valve lift became an issue because of the thickness of the seals and the higher lift of the new cam

,I milled .140 off the top of the guides for clearance Used my drill press with an end mill chucked up in it :)

The brass fitting is my comparator for checking the new guide height LOL,

The tool with the hooks is a spring compressor of some sort, It worked great to

install the pushrods after rocker arms were all bolted down and checked for free movement .

The piece of white plastic is a section of a paint cup which I used to install the rear main seal , It worked great

to keep the lip from folding or catching , The black round tool is a Cat seal installer that was the correct size

for tapping the seal in, If I did not have this tool a piece of 4" sched 40 pvc pipe would of worked also .

Brand new nos oil pump and the bottom end is complete with oil and Lucas zinc break in additive has already been

pumped through her veins with the screwdriver shank oil pump drive tool


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Got one of those HF ultrasonics. Don't know how I got by without it.

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The motor is coming along, Thank Goodness ,Don't think the engine stand can take much more :)


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