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stageone

Btd 6 rebuild progress and possible tips, Interpiller

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At the moment I only get back home for 2 days a fortnight so things have slowed up a little. This break I was back into the other track frame removing broken bolts. Got out 10 till I ran out of oxygen for the cutter, still got 10 to go. The most annoying thing is I found a big fault with the injector pump leaking diesel through one or more of the elements badly at full throttle, without the engine running. I paid good money to have this pump rebuilt and spent my last day off removing it! I am glad that the company has good customer service and are prepared to fix it, again.

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Stageone,

Hello Cobber. If that is an in-correct greeting please disregard it.

Would you give a little more explanation as to what is going wrong with the pump and why. I'm new to TD6s, and am not following. Is pump itself leaking?

thanks,

eldon

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Stageone,

Hello Cobber. If that is an in-correct greeting please disregard it.

Would you give a little more explanation as to what is going wrong with the pump and why. I'm new to TD6s, and am not following. Is pump itself leaking?

thanks,

eldon

No worries,

It's got a CAV injector pump on it. When the rack is fully open its must be bypassing one or more of the injector elements and ejecting the fuel out the pig tail breather on the sump of the pump in a constant stream. If the engine was running you would think it's the lift pump, but it's not even running. Either way something in there is seriously wrong. At the rate it's leaking I would only be burning about 20% of a tank of fuel with the rest just pouring onto the ground.

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Have been out at work for a couple of months now. Slowly chipping away at the track frames on the 2 days at home. I will post some photo's tomorrow if the rock guard are ready.

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Unfortunately the rock guards where not ready, getting close to Christmas so the plasma guy is flat out trying to finish this years orders.

I wasn't happy with the plug welding of the holes on the last frame so this time I used mild steel threaded bar. It was a little harder to set up as you have to extract/ cut out the old bolt but save the original thread, I guess you could drill it oversize, tap and plug if the going got really hard. However after many hours of removing broken bolts, plugging, welding, drilling and tapping I think I have a reliable and effective procedure for fitting cat d 3 rollers.

1, Remove broken bolts, clear threads

post-63610-0-66552100-1417504986_thumb.j

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2, Mark centers of old roller position and plug holes with mild steel threaded rod. Take care that the rod inserted is about the width of the parent material, cut flush, center pop.

post-63610-0-23800400-1417505509_thumb.j

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3, Pre heat the weld area (to get rid to hard spots) and weld with a low hydrogen rod with the amps cranked up to burn it in a little.

post-63610-0-67609400-1417506060_thumb.j

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4, Grind flush then use D3 roller as marking out jig with attention to getting it central. The HIH frame is 6mm wider than the roller and requires 2x 3mm flat bar spacers each side. I haven't welded them in yet.

post-63610-0-74297500-1417506432_thumb.j

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5, Simply drill and tap with a hand drill.

post-63610-0-27635700-1417506667_thumb.j

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6, Well I still have to weld in the spacers, but the rollers are now a direct bolt on. You could use your original rock guards by grinding them out 3mm. Only reason I am making new ones is the usual, the originals are total scrap. If you wanted to run original tracks for BTD6 or TD6 with the original front idler, your mod would stop here almost, the cat rollers are a little closer between the outer flange and require 1.5 mm a side machined off to fit the HI track.

post-63610-0-95538000-1417507322_thumb.j

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I am really getting over this working away, be home 12 days in the last 4 months. Progress is slow by at last I have one track frame ready for sandblasting. Not that that's going to happen soon, got to go out for 5-6 weeks! So after hours of grinding and welding and more grinding, here it is, the Cat D3 front idler on a BTD6 track frame.

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This is the modified track adjuster. A standard Cat d 3 and the finished one.

post-63610-0-18880400-1422568331_thumb.j

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Now that is cool! Can you give me the dimensions of the D3 idler? Major/minor, width and flange width. I am looking for options on a replacement for 500c idlers. A D2 size may be most appropriate, but I need the info to decide.

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No worries. D 3 idler Major di is 21.218" minor 19.968" width is 4.406" middle bit is 2.125"

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Well after almost six month at work I got some time off, maybe a lot of time, but I never know. In the few days I did get I got one track frame completed and I should have the other be ready for the sand blasters by tomorrow. Changing over to cat is an option but when you go 100% the amount of work could be cost prohibitive if you can't do it yourself. Each one of these can use up a 60+ hours of solid work + parts. After assessing the old rock guards I found it easier to make new ones than repair/ mod the old ones, also added a bolt on wear strip so I hope I don't have to do it again. For now I will run the inter top carry rollers for a bit because the ones I have are not totally stuffed, but have been looking into the cat ones. With luck and hard work I hope to get the tracks on next week if all goes to plan.

post-63610-0-08150400-1429081405_thumb.j

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and another

post-63610-0-05760300-1429081611_thumb.j

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What holds the D3 idlers down. Can you show a close up from the front? They may well work on my 500c. The diameters are within 1/2 inch (Mine is slightly larger in diameter.). I cannot see that small difference mattering much.

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Really nice work!

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Fantabulous :):wub:

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What holds the D3 idlers down. Can you show a close up from the front? They may well work on my 500c. The diameters are within 1/2 inch (Mine is slightly larger in diameter.). I cannot see that small difference mattering much.

I don't think the 1/2" difference will matter at all, it's the same on mine. I quizzed a friend of mine about it when I found out, he is of the opinion what many machines are like this to take some of the weight of the front idler so in a perfect world they don't side load as much when turning. The carry rollers take the weight and there smaller diameter has a lot less leverage on the bearings. In the photos attached you can see the packing required to hold that idler in place, it easy to put on but requires a lot of grinding to get straight and true so the idler can slide nicely without to much clearance.

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post-63610-0-23562600-1429151911_thumb.j

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What is the distance between the insides of the channel it rides on? Sorry for the 20 questions, but your work has gotten me excited abut completing my project. My holdup is the unavailability of front rollers. I have new bottom rollers, sprockets and chains.

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What is the distance between the insides of the channel it rides on? Sorry for the 20 questions, but your work has gotten me excited abut completing my project. My holdup is the unavailability of front rollers. I have new bottom rollers, sprockets and chains.

Ok, 302mm across on the outside, 171mm between rails and 133mm deep.

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I have been informed to use "Stockholm tar" on my grouser plate bolts, he tells me even after years it still comes apart. I have to take note because his dozer repair shop has been around for 30 years. I have all sorts of other "anti seize" products but I don't recommend copper coat. Has anyone worked with this material? could this old treatment be something simple that works?

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