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Btd 6 rebuild progress and possible tips, Interpiller


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A few panels was easy. Then onto the fuel tank, another broken bolt fest with a couple of cracks to mix it up, and I also wanted to fit that fuel sender. I remember my next door neighbour had 600L of diesel stolen from his place a few years back so I added a tamper proof device to the fuel cap to keep the honest people out!! I added a few little lock out's to stop the opportunists but with the invention of the cordless angle grinder these only prevent the curious, I hope they find something better to mess with.

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Then there is the case of the battery box, and the surge tanks for the now 10L final housings. I could be wrong but I don't see the need for 2 batteries when one modern 650 amp could do the job. I should warn you that this mount is completely free style and nothing original and sit's 2" lower, also stronger, it also incorporates 2 surge tanks. I think it is much better than what was left of the original 2 mounts with a superior clamp system.

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Well after everything had been mocked up and tested it was eventually time to paint the final drive. It took awhile to get it leak free, for now anyway, a load test of work will most likely bring them back out!!

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Painting the underneath was not a lot of fun. However after mocking the machine up and making the parts fit payed off after the sandblasting and painting individual components , no more drilling, thread repairs, weld repairs or fabrication. At last this project is going somewhere. Will post more tomorrow maybe, lot's of changes!!

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Back to the finals. At last I had tracked down a good dead axle, It was a shame it had been removed directly with a sledge hammer mushrooming the end, but that was easy fixed but played havoc later when shimming the bull gear bearings. Now the final drive housings could go back on. This machine originally took a smaller pinion and a lager bolt on bull gear I just couldn't get, one guy even said mine is an American machine, but all the bearings are English? I had a set of mint condition riveted bull gears I was told won't fit, Well they do and they don't, the rear bearing cone is 4 7/8" bolt on is 5", no big deal, just bore it out. Then there is the small problem of the rough cast on the gear fouling the outer housing, simple, grind the dag's off. A set of mint pinions was found in the UK and arrived safely in Australia and it was satisfying to fit them without event. As far as I am concerned if the distance between the dead axle and pinion bore is the same as it is on all 6's they will fit. I will have to shoot over to the States one day, I would love to measure up some parts and see what really will fit into what. After a lot of messing around setting parts up, checking clearance, preloading, testing and making shims and gaskets all the way the finals are where I want them. The Destruction of my machine was so bad I even had to rebuild the inner dirt shields, the spares I had were not much better.

....The last production runs of the BTD6 had larger final drive housings.....with slightly different bullgears and pinions..a trap for the unwary....because the whole assembly ...obviously.....had to go together....no interchanging as I recall.

Did up one of these about five years gone...bearings and seals were no problem...all 'aftermarket' with the sometimes minor modification required to fit them...

Another very obvious difference with the later machines was the use of a Simms "mini-mec" injection pump....and IH painted these later models , yellow.

Mike

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I got an old hydroco pump off a more advanced btd6 a while ago now. It seems to be ok but the proof is in the testing. Has to be better than the old off the timing cover pump? After all if you haven't noticed at some point in the past this machine has been fitted with an old tractor engine out of an AW6, much the same but no simms injector pump, or rear oil pick up. Would make the throttle linkage mess up easy to explain. I hope to use the increased flow rate for faster blade action and also as a plug and play hydraulic power pack for off machine activities like log splitters or maybe a slasher. The local cnc plate cutter told me his machine is good for .002" (thou) so I tried him out. After measuring the pump spigot and radiator bolt holes I gave him the drawing, the final result much better that expectation. Looks like the old fitter and turners ( that's me) aren't needed anymore. The pump was a tap in fit, the bolt holes like dowels, have the drawing if needed. I should of let him cut of the pitch of the 6 retaining studs, but I had to leave something for myself!! Ok I only drilled and tapped the pump mounting studs, the rest was done by "the machine".

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A bit more about the engine. I picked up a 6 blade blower fan from an unknown machine, I wish I knew because they are a perfect size and fit in the fan shroud nicely. You have to bore them out and redrill the holes but there is plenty of material for it. I got the fan and new water jacket plate from Neil's Tractor part's in Toowoomba QLD, they have many new parts for the AD 264 and are well worth the call, they also have new water pumps as well as a stock pile of blocks and heads, they are an old tractor wreakers after all. As for the injector pump I found no one wants to touch the old CAV pump local, to hard to get the parts apparently, so I found a company in Melbourne VIC that loves them BSP Diesel, they have all the parts new old stock, even complete new old stock pumps! I also found a correct section "D" fan belt that is the perfect length commonly available for a Mitsubishi truck.

Thanks for this information!

The British BD-264 & Australian AD-264 engines are virtually the same, it is great you have located parts sources for them in Australia.

The later BD-264 engines used a Simms injection pump, although I have never seen one.

The AD-264 engine was used in Aussie built Farmall tractors and there a quite a few people restoring those tractors now.

Regards from Michael H. B)

P.S. I will bookmark Neil's Tractors Parts etc. for future reference

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Had my local hydraulic guy out today for a look. Hydraulics aren't my strong suit, I only know the basics, so it was good to have a man on site that knew what to do. I should have the hard lines bent up by Monday, only from the pump to the tank, I want to keep the flexi lines as short as possible . He is also telling me you can still get all the parts for the old Hydroco pumps through Parker?or he can, and if not they can get an identical pump that will bolt straight on. I hope I don't need one!! They have a good idea what I want so I hope to have some hydraulic progress photos Tuesday. Tomorrow is shed day, it's off topic but when I am not at work or putting time into this never ending dozer project I like to work on this.

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stageone, on 21 Jul 2014 - 6:11 PM, said:

After making lots of parts it was time to do some wiring. Having 3 holes in the dash panel was an item of wonder. I didn't like the idea of an ammeter, after all who drives a hobby dozer at night? what amazing gizmos would drain the battery? the modern alternator I fitted would surely do the job even at night with 4 lights going. So after a bit of looking around I decided to go all VDO marine gauges with a 17.8'' tube fuel sender to have a fuel gauge in the 3rd hole, no more looking into the tank for me. Being all electric gauges allowed for some creative freedom with the electrical system on the machine, as originality went out the window with the caterpillar parts and modern fuel filters but I still want to keep the machine looking of the period, this influenced a lot of choices on the appearance of the components. A small Hobbs hour meter was fitted, to keep the hours accurate this is connected to a 2 way oil pressure switch. The switch has 3 poles, 1 contact ( connected to earth), 2 normally closed ( connected to the oil warning light in the oil pressure gauge), 3 normally open ( connected to the earth side of the hour meter), when oil pressure is achieved the hour meter gains an earth and starts operating, so only works when engine is running, you will need an 1/8 npt straight with a 90deg to fit the sender and switch( a tee wont fit). I found it hard to get tasteful looking pilot lights that are not LED, so I got LED's, this is not a problem because they look great but the red alternator one requires a resistor in the circuit to prevent shorting, I just had to have a green one for the glow plugs connected to number 4 glow. I used the early caterpillar heat/start switch out of a D4 as well as the keyed isolator for the main "ignition" that supplies power to a small sealed 6 pole fuse box. The VDO gauges came from fisheriessupply.com in the US and work very well in this application, Have all the modern gizoms and look the part too! I also found it hard to get a 3 position OFF, ON , ON switch for the lights, turns out no one here stocks them. The reason I have chosen this switch is so I can turn on the front lights, then If I so wish the rear lights as well with one simple action. Luckily I drive a series 3 land rover ( that's how their light switch works) and know where to get new ones of these, they look the part to.

While we are talking things electrical I thought I would mention Glow Plugs-

There is a replacement kit using TOYOTA glow plugs sold by "Wagga Tractor" of Wagga Wagga N.S.W.

Their part number is GPK4403 for AD-264 tractor engines.

"Additional 13mm wide spacer will be required if fitting to BD-264 or BD-281 bulldozer engines" according to their webpage

Their webpage even has photo instruction of how to install these glow plugs!

Regards from M.H.

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Well I had the hydraulic guys out here today and I am not very happy with the result. It could be important to leave the finer details to the pros, but when you realise they made a huge rookie mistake you really wonder why you got them in. I really should of kept an eye on them, thought about it more and not have the belief it's sorted. At first the poor hose man was concerned about the set up of the pump, has a 62 flange on one side and a larger bit of water pipe on the other side, as fitted to the machine it came off. A call to his boss had to be made, part numbers confirmed, sizes checked, it was decided that the flange should be the intake and the old pipe removed for a high pressure output, but what of the rotation of the pump? This was a matter of much concern to the point the very boss of the company came out to drop more parts off (because they sent out the wrong ones) and console me with his knowledge, made me comfortable I made the right choice of company. He informed his employee to rotate the pump 180 degrees and continue making the hard lines in the new and correct configuration. So he did, made some really nice steel lines, I made some brackets and retainers, everyone is happy, it's late, time for the hydraulic guy to go home, just a couple of finishing soft lines tomorrow morning to finish off... Then suddenly, I dawns on me just after it to late to ring it's ALL WRONG!!! You can't change a pump flow by turning it 180, you have to change the mid plate around. Not that that matters on similar ID holes because it's the restriction on the output that regulates the suction side (explaining why this ome was fitted). The system they set up is completely backwards, when he arrives tomorrow morning with the finishing hoses they will all be wrong. I am not looking forward to the argument tomorrow morning!! I really should of known better, sometimes you just got to trust yourself and not what a "PRO" tells you.

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When looking at a pump if the suction is on the right and the pressure on the left, if you rotate the pump 180°, since the pump drive shaft is still rotating the same direction in relation to the housing, the suction will now be on the left and the pressure on the right. It sounds like they did the right thing.

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When looking at a pump if the suction is on the right and the pressure on the left, if you rotate the pump 180°, since the pump drive shaft is still rotating the same direction in relation to the housing, the suction will now be on the left and the pressure on the right. It sounds like they did the right thing.

No they didn't. One side of the pump has a 62 flange the other a 1" bsp socket that used to have a suction feral and has again now. Old mate thought that the flange had to be the suction side but because of the engine rotation this was never met to happen. This pump had come off a BTD6 fitted with a 6 way blade possibly from new so I take it as the way it is. Yes rotating a pump will change the suction and output 180 but the 62 flange is STILL the output. The problem was he made the hard lines thinking this had changed the direction of flow through the pump. It wont and never will. If that worked and if you turned 180 your face would be on the back of your head! Thing is when your plumbing a machine from scratch you want your hard lines laid out nicely with no cross overs and there are many bends. We have come to an agreement that I will take it from here and try to sort this mess out. I have been working on it today trying to save and re shape what I can.

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Why I hate cross overs, the large pipe on the outside should be inside and bent 90 to be pretty. Spanner access is limited requiring removal of suction pipe to change output hose, it would be very rare but hey, I fix stuff for a living and I don't want my jobs at home harder than they have to be! I had to drop the suction hose hard line using up all but an half an inch of the nose shield clearance to get that much. I shouldn't complain to much but it's not how I would of done it and this is the best I can do to save it, without remaking the whole lot because I don't have a pipe bender that size. The good news is all in all it sort of looks ok and lines up now (sort of)the best new is the side plate, nose shield and belly plate cover it up. I just hope I don't have to work on it to often. And it's still not finished.

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Nice work!

What paint are you using, and how are you applying it?

New Caterpillar Yellow enamel from the local caterpillar dealer, that was cheaper than you would expect. I know it's not original but it's a high quality no fuss paint. I spray "batches" of parts after sand blasting (if possible)and priming with an ordinary spray gun. Then assemble then after a couple of days when the paints hardened. I will see how I go but after the machine is completely together I might give the outside a quick wet coat to shine it up a bit.

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Kept going on the build today trying to make the best of the under radiator stuff so I can put the radiator guard and belly pan on. I am getting to the end of my time off and want to put a sizable dent in this project. I got the lines and brackets sorted, but after trying to fit the belly pan a couple of times and cutting to get clearance I ended up with a hole a bit bigger than I wanted.Lucky the nose guard drops down enough to cover it and the end result was ok. It all fits up now and the underneath stuff is sealed up.

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