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Btd 6 rebuild progress and possible tips, Interpiller


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Hi all and thanks for your help over the last year or so. As most of you know I bought a cheap machine to do some work on my property and lots on my dad's place. I broke my own rule that I would never buy a dozer because they are a money pit, If only I had listened to myself!! I got done big time, after only a few hours work I thought it best to fix a couple of "little" problems I had noticed. My nightmare started with the left hand final, then spread to the right and soon afterwards the transmission of broken teeth. I saw hideous wear that frighten the sturdiest of men. Many sleepless nights followed wondering if I should just walk away and cut my losses. The following photo shows what I had left after removing the damaged parts. And the engine needs work to!!

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I guess after you hit rock bottom the only way is up. I was fortunate enough to come across a man that had a machinery wreakers and wanted out, so I took a gamble and bought his BTD 6 stock, about 2 and a half tons of it for $2500. I now had many parts like excellent bull gears, transmission gears, final drive housings and buckets of all those little fiddly bits you'd never find, like dowel bolts/ springs and strange clips. But alas in my haul there was no final drive pinions of any value, still no dead axle and no quality input shafts. I hope I would later find these parts so I pushed on with the transmission. Every gear, bearing and seal needed replacing, even the bevel gear centre and jack shafts. I noticed much damage was done by the nut on the end of the pinion shaft coming lose, selector forks snapping off and silicone/ metal in great abundance plugging every oil way. After reassembly with all new gearing and a 2 speed reverse upgrade using the jig as shown to get the 0.005" preload required, a half inch weld was placed on the flat of the nut to first gear after it was flogged tight ( pre heat before welding is always advised). Those tab washers just don't work, wait till I tell the story of the final drive!

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Back to the finals. At last I had tracked down a good dead axle, It was a shame it had been removed directly with a sledge hammer mushrooming the end, but that was easy fixed but played havoc later when shimming the bull gear bearings. Now the final drive housings could go back on. This machine originally took a smaller pinion and a lager bolt on bull gear I just couldn't get, one guy even said mine is an American machine, but all the bearings are English? I had a set of mint condition riveted bull gears I was told won't fit, Well they do and they don't, the rear bearing cone is 4 7/8" bolt on is 5", no big deal, just bore it out. Then there is the small problem of the rough cast on the gear fouling the outer housing, simple, grind the dag's off. A set of mint pinions was found in the UK and arrived safely in Australia and it was satisfying to fit them without event. As far as I am concerned if the distance between the dead axle and pinion bore is the same as it is on all 6's they will fit. I will have to shoot over to the States one day, I would love to measure up some parts and see what really will fit into what. After a lot of messing around setting parts up, checking clearance, preloading, testing and making shims and gaskets all the way the finals are where I want them. The Destruction of my machine was so bad I even had to rebuild the inner dirt shields, the spares I had were not much better.

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Clutches, they suck. If you ever pull the bevel gear carrier out make sure you keep your bevel gear adjusting rings on the side they came from, they are left and right. If you mix and match like I did from several you will find the clutch fork WILL bind up on the ADJUSTER LOCK. These should be facing the rear of the machine as well as the lube line connectors. Also There are 13 "bi metal plates" in a pack the old book I have mentions 12 but this is for the old fiber plates. I had to pull mine back out again and it's not a good feeling!!

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Locking that pesky sprocket nut!!! Well that little tab washers seems a little inadequate for the task. The nuts on my carriers had wound right off completely, destroying the thread as they went. The bull gear spline and hubs were comic, almost no spline at all, the play had taken out everything in their path, oil seals/ dirt shields and oil seal pressure plates. Total loss. It is common practice here to weld the nut to the sprocket carrier. I don't like this idea because you will never stop that minute movement on the spline and eventually flog the thread out. Not to mention the mission involved in removing them the next time, so I came up with this. After flogging the nut up with a proper tool you can get cnc plazma cut for $30 measure the distance either side of a carrier bolt hole that's in the hollow of the nut. Lay 2 neat runs of weld on top of each other (after pre heating) inside the oil seal pressure plate as shown a little shy of the measurement. You now have a bolt on lock nut that can be easily removed for future service and will allow a little movement. The nut can never turn off, only move a fraction.

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Seal the deal. I bought new bellow seals for my machine, the inner seal was great but the outer seal I had a reason for worry. The cork seems a little thin or the recess a little deep. Only had about 0.010" protrusion from the die-cast and I don't think that's many hours of wear so I machined 0.040" off the die-cast to get this result. The one on the left is the new seal, right good original. The hub is just to show off that I a new machined face is the best chance of sealing!! Be aware of these seals, they are great, might be a batch thing but check them first.

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Under carriage. Well it's all stuffed, got about 5 good rollers out of 10, one good idler and half ok tracks. After the trauma I have been through chasing good under carriage I have just given up, it's rare here and the cost is insane. So I have done the math and am going FULL cat D3. Won't just pop in, there is a bit of engineering but the sizes are sound. After removing countless broken bolts out of everything one of the track frames is ready for welding and re-drill, I hope to have this one ready by the end of the week. I have done the sprockets and after 7 hours of welding each I would almost say it's not to hard. Mind you, these have to be 100% with back gouging, quality big low hydrogen rods and lot's of heat. I will keep you posted on the progress of this conversion, I think it will work rather well and the new parts are heaps cheaper than the rare 2nd inter bits, here anyway.

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Stage one

You sir are a master craftsman. I have done some of the type of work you have done. I can appreciate just how hard it is to accomplish what you have done. I can only imagine how hard it is to do the parts chasing across different countries and continents.

Thank you for posting the pictures of your progress and also how you have gotten around the many road blocks you have encountered. A great man once said, " If it isn't recorded, it didn't happen." The things you have done, for all of us around the world to read will out live you. Thank you.

GT&T

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Thanks for posting pictures and descriptions of your work. I think that the undercarriage conversion is especially interesting since parts are getting hard to come by and that is a way to keep the old Internationals running. Please post more pictures, etc.

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Well the track frames are coming along. Plug welding all those little roller holes is a little tedious ( but not as bad as getting all the broken bolts out), and you can't use a backing plate so I might have to rethink the idea to make it more reliable. I will see how they go when I re drill/ tap them, might have to change a few things. The "harpoon" plates went on easy and may look a little goofy but that lower part is the rock guard I am building into it and I hope, when fully assembled with rollers and idler will look more robust and streamlined. There will be more on this later. Unfortunately I have to return to work for 3 weeks straight so I had to solve a couple of other little problems before I go and line up some bits for my return.

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I also had some trouble with those outer seals again. I have raised the oil level in this machine to now take 6 litres aside in the finals. Seems the outer seals I have only have 2mm of crush when assembled and started weeping (more like dripping) . They have 9mm travel so I thought after taking it apart again, it would be a good idea to build up the pressure plates 4 mm to give 6 mm crush and 3mm play for movement. Well I now have one scrap pressure plate after welding as it's cast steel and even though it was bolted to an old hub, looks like a mushroom and isn't worth the time and effort to repair. I have arranged a couple of 4mm stainless steel plates to be cnc plazma cut that will simply bolt on the pressure plate behind the dirt shield, using the standard retainer bolts,I have to wait 3 weeks to see if this works. I also couldn't help but notice these final drives have no breather, so I have added one. The black/red pipe in the photo below is were it is because of my concern in any other position it could get ripped off by stuff caught in the tracks, the hole below it is the new fill point/ level. The breather tube will be connected to 2 "spit" tanks under the seat so when the machine cools down the ejected oil will be sucked back in. Time will tell if the now almost oil submerged finals will last longer, I don't want try and find parts for these again!!

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Stageone.

You are making a very good job - all credit to you. I know the feeling, its a shame when work get's in the way!

Looking forward to more pics of your progress.

Regards John.

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Great work, I have had a lot of the same problems with the old 6, i have ended up using parts from T6,TD6 and WD6. There are just about no parts around Rockhampton these days. Am very interested in your track conversion. I too had problems with bellows seals and found some from Italy that were for a Fiat, the casting was poor though.

all the best CC

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  • 6 months later...

Been a long time and a few failed attempts but ,At last I think I have cracked it! Not the housings but how to keep 8lts of oil in a btd6 final drive, 4 days and no drops or weeping at all. Test is still ongoing and the results should be in about 2 weeks. Simple as re-engineering pivot ball and seal plate to take a commonly abundant seal, apart from completely remaking the pressure plate, easyish . The machine has been coming along nicely in the very, very sort time I get off. Will post the latest progress.

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Rebuilding the engine was easy, parts a common here. Had the injector pump bumped up 5% but kept the same 1600 rpm. Amazing how many new off the self parts you can still get for these AD264's. Injectors, water jacket covers and all, Toyota glow plugs seem to work well. None of the same could be said a bout the clutch, full fab rebuild.

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The clutch was hard. Out of 3 clutches I didn't find enough parts to build one. All the rollers I the cams were missing or had flat spots, 1/4" x 5/8" don't seem to be available here so one had to make one's own rollers out of 1/4" sliver steel. This is something I think can only be done once as the end retainers had to be ground off and brazed back on, This makes hardening the new rollers a nightmare. I managed to find some new return springs at Tractorparts.com in the US, great to deal with.

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Eventually got the rollers hard enough. The brazed up spots on the housing is were the spring wears in a deep grove, could weld it but cast iron is a mission to weld correctly, I was lazy that day but it's the best they had 100 years ago!

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Oh, and most of the earlier outer seal stuff didn't work to my expectations. Still leaked, but then how many people want to fill the final drive to 8lts?!

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As can be expected getting the clutch in is a tight fit, ignoring the manual I tried to fit it with the grease nipple in the end of the shaft, won't happen. Who ever drew up this design really thought about it or just got lucky, there is no room for error at all! After much frustration then sudden success and final adjustments made the clutch action is now very positive. The new rollers and springs have made a huge difference. I will be considering greasing the clutch regularly a priority as I can understand how these fall into neglect due to out of sight out of mind, I have now experienced first hand what lack of lube and maintenance can do to these things!

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A bit more about the engine. I picked up a 6 blade blower fan from an unknown machine, I wish I knew because they are a perfect size and fit in the fan shroud nicely. You have to bore them out and redrill the holes but there is plenty of material for it. I got the fan and new water jacket plate from Neil's Tractor part's in Toowoomba QLD, they have many new parts for the AD 264 and are well worth the call, they also have new water pumps as well as a stock pile of blocks and heads, they are an old tractor wreakers after all. As for the injector pump I found no one wants to touch the old CAV pump local, to hard to get the parts apparently, so I found a company in Melbourne VIC that loves them BSP Diesel, they have all the parts new old stock, even complete new old stock pumps! I also found a correct section "D" fan belt that is the perfect length commonly available for a Mitsubishi truck. I don't have the part number on me right now but if you need it let me know.

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After making lots of parts it was time to do some wiring. Having 3 holes in the dash panel was an item of wonder. I didn't like the idea of an ammeter, after all who drives a hobby dozer at night? what amazing gizmos would drain the battery? the modern alternator I fitted would surely do the job even at night with 4 lights going. So after a bit of looking around I decided to go all VDO marine gauges with a 17.8'' tube fuel sender to have a fuel gauge in the 3rd hole, no more looking into the tank for me. Being all electric gauges allowed for some creative freedom with the electrical system on the machine, as originality went out the window with the caterpillar parts and modern fuel filters but I still want to keep the machine looking of the period, this influenced a lot of choices on the appearance of the components. A small Hobbs hour meter was fitted, to keep the hours accurate this is connected to a 2 way oil pressure switch. The switch has 3 poles, 1 contact ( connected to earth), 2 normally closed ( connected to the oil warning light in the oil pressure gauge), 3 normally open ( connected to the earth side of the hour meter), when oil pressure is achieved the hour meter gains an earth and starts operating, so only works when engine is running, you will need an 1/8 npt straight with a 90deg to fit the sender and switch( a tee wont fit). I found it hard to get tasteful looking pilot lights that are not LED, so I got LED's, this is not a problem because they look great but the red alternator one requires a resistor in the circuit to prevent shorting, I just had to have a green one for the glow plugs connected to number 4 glow. I used the early caterpillar heat/start switch out of a D4 as well as the keyed isolator for the main "ignition" that supplies power to a small sealed 6 pole fuse box. The VDO gauges came from fisheriessupply.com in the US and work very well in this application, Have all the modern gizoms and look the part too! I also found it hard to get a 3 position OFF, ON , ON switch for the lights, turns out no one here stocks them. The reason I have chosen this switch is so I can turn on the front lights, then If I so wish the rear lights as well with one simple action. Luckily I drive a series 3 land rover ( that's how their light switch works) and know where to get new ones of these, they look the part to.

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As the bonnet was not repairable and the side cowls didn't exist at all I had to make my own. I don't have the equipment to bend up the bonnet so the bending and CNC plazma cutting of the bonnet and side panels was farmed out to Toowoomba Metal services who did a great job on the profile. Of course you have to draw/ fit/ drill and weld it yourself but at least the raw parts are there. I decided 5mm plate may stop the self destruction from vibration a little longer than the originals and turns out to be a very solid combination when all bolted together. The fire wall was torn and cracked and required much repair and stiffening, I think it has something to do with the weight of the air cleaner hanging off a 2.5mm panel, I welded some 20mm x 5mm flat bar that picks up the holes that bolt to the back of the head to support the air cleaner mounts and stitched it to the fire wall (might work). The rest of the cowls went well with some nice weld on hinges and over 4 meters of flat bar to make the inspection door deflectors that I hope will keep the worst of the sticks and dirt out. Funny thing about vibration is it seems to transfer to the weakest point. The fire wall and radiator no longer rock violently but the 10mm thick and braced radiator guard moves a bit. During one vibration test I forgot to remove the rag from the engine intake, lucky it got jammed in the head, only had to pull the manifold off. The engine still ran poorly, made me wonder how many rough running machines may have this problem?!!

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What an amazing rebuild , I like the gauges, My Dad and I had just finished rebuilding a Big Cat V8

We turned it over and it fired right off, Both of us saw the rag get sucked right in (just a single rag about 5"x5", My dad reached over

quickly and grabbed the throttle held it about halfway open It coughed ,spit, backfired and blew flames out the exhaust , But the rag

went right through and it smoothed right out ,Thank Goodness :)

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  • 2 months later...

At last I got a bit of a break from work and put some time into the machine. It's funny how mock assembly for part fitment makes the final job easier even though at the time I get a little sick of it. As usual most of the seat box parts are cracked with missing bits, the fuel tank is filled with broken bolts or stripped threads, the totally broken battery mounts just won't do and the track guards wont line up with just about anything, it's time to get busy. This machine had been so hashed up even the throttle ran backwards, I didn't know better till I looked closely at the linkages, then had to make new ones. Here's a couple of progress photos.

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