Jump to content

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

farmer 43

'74 ih 3/4 ton

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone!

I've been dabbling in IH tractors and equiptment for a little bit now, but I have now got myself a IH truck!

Like my title says its a 74 3/4 ton 4X4, with the 345, and an auto tranny!

I'm pretty excited to branch into this part of red power forums, and I'm sure I will have lots of questions when I get into fixing er up, and I can't think of a better place to ask then right here!

I picked er up not running but the engine is free and I'm hoping it won't take to much to fire it up.

post-64516-0-81595700-1388271828_thumb.jpost-64516-0-59985900-1388271943_thumb.j

Farmer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Farmer open the glove box and there are 2 clips (one per side) release those and the glove box will flip all the way down. On the back of the glove box should be a copy of the lineset. That will tell you everything the truck left the factory with. Eason

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

looks like a super clean truck. id go to ihpa. go to tools. and either buy or make the oil pump tool. it may save you some time in the long run.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Like the looks of your trailer----tell us more about it.

Looks like you might be locking your brakes----and sliding the bed similar to a roll back??

What size axles are you running?

I have a 22 ft. Grove roll back on a '63 Loadstar----been wanting to convert to a goose neck and thinking of ways to simpify and cut down on weight at same time. (looks like you have already done it)

Good luck with the pick-up.

Delta Dirt

Avon, Ms 38723

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Eason,I found the tag behind the glove box, but it's -30c here so that's all I have accomplished.

IHrunner, what is a oil pump tool?

Delta Dirt, I'm glad you asked about the trailer! It's made by linden trailers, I'm not sure if they are still in business or not. I picked it up thid spring as a real fixer upper. New paint, new planks, new rims, newer but not new tires, new lights&wirring&brake kit, and weld repair she as good as new! This was the madden voyage for the trailer and I'm happy with it. As you can see by the pic it has a tilt deck, and yes your right! By locking the brakes you back up sliding the deck over the axels. As for the axels they are 7,000lbs.

After cranking the truck on with a chain come along, I decided a winch is essential so I have 17,500lb winch I am planning on mounting on once it warms up.

I didn't convert mine, but as a welder by trade I'm sure it would be posiable to do so with a little time, and creativity.

Farmer

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

http://www.shopih.com/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=ION&Product_Code=IHENG-OPDT&Category_Code=T5

ya dont wanna wipe a cam bearing if you can help it. this tool is also good for checking for top end oiling issues. ihpa and binderplanet cover in great detail reviving old ih sv8's. its an art. probably the most enjoyable engines to work on

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ahhh, I see! Thanks for the link and advice!

Didn't even realize that would be an issue.I got a lot to learn!!

Farmer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Farmer------

Do you have any pics with the bed in the travel position??

One point I like about that scenario is you could have a couple of positions for locking the trailer axles--------and vary the forward weight on the truck through the goose neck.

Always more than one way to skin a cat-------and always lots to learn from looking at other cat's ideas!!!!

Will google Linden trailers.

Priming that oil pump is good idea on any engine.

DD

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ahhh, I see! Thanks for the link and advice!

Didn't even realize that would be an issue.I got a lot to learn!!

Farmer.

thats actually the only quirk they have. well that i can think of. low oil pressure is normal. they like to be ran from 2000-3600 all day. the 345 is a true truck engine. all guts. just mean nasty engines. the A727 tf backing it up is pretty self explanitory. its the king of automatics. then you should have dana 44 front and dana 70 rear. i think thats the most common. all engine parts are available from ihpa. superscoutspecialist. scoutparts.com. rockauto. your local crapa store. 304 and 345 share pistons so they're always available. you have a real truck there sir. thats the only way i can explain it. it just oozes cool. i hope you like her

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ya there a 3 places the axels can be set. One thing I learned is you defiantly want to load the heavy end first. I had a bit of trouble tilting the deck back down the way I loaded the truck. I had to crank it a long way up to get the engine over centre.

I tried googling linden trailers as well, but I didn't come up with much.

These truck do have a real cool look to them in my opinion, I can't wait for things to warm up so I can start fixing, and take er for a rip!!!

post-64516-0-95634100-1388524912_thumb.j

post-64516-0-82973100-1388525008_thumb.j

Sorry for the turned pictures, I take most of these pics with my iPhone and sometimes they do that??(not sure how to turn them back, and it ticks me off)

Farmer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have hyd tilt and hyd roll back via seperate contols-----plus a hyd winch; ------but alot of added weight in the hydraulics and internal roller sub- frame. Plus location of axles are fixed in one position.

Course-----there are lots of tricks that can be done with the combination of the live two way tilt and two way roll back.

Did not find Linden Trailers-------but did find several trailer manufacturers in Linden, Alberta. Will do some more searching when time is available.

First thing I need are a pair of low profile axles-----in an affordable price range. I have a hvy duty goose neck from a goose neck grain trailer I built back in the 80's

And------gotta have some physical energy.

DD

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes the the hydraulics and the winch are added weight but they are pretty sweet options to have on a trailer!! As for fixed axels that's the way most trailers operate. What would you pull this trailer behind? Would the trailer be a tandem or single axel? What are you thinking of powering the hydraulics with?

Sounds like you found the same thing I found in a google search. I should have mentioned that the trailer is a '72 and it's possible they don't make them anymore.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Happy new year farmer-----I am up early this morning------couldn't sleep. So----maybe I am starting the year off right!!!

Got an '89 F700 with a flat grain bed tilt/dump that I put together several years ago-----it's got hydraulics for the tilt/dump; plus I have a 9,000# electric winch that I can double my pull on with block/tackle.

My original plans were to strip the old Loadstar down and mount a pair of low profile axles to the truck frame-------mount my existing goose neck to the truck frame and be up and running. (leave the roll back mounted to the truck frame as is)

That's really the easiest way to go.

Elimination of excess weight-------and sliding the axles toward the rear have always interested me.

This is an implement style rollback with dual lift cylinders and a 10 or 11 ft. roll back cylinder-----the bed slides on heavy rollers attached to the sub frame. Single axle 1600 with empty bed weighed in @ 13,900 lbs (heavy)

Working with the trailer design allows alot more flexibility vs a truck (not dealing with the drive shaft).

Maybe I will get around to tackling this project for 2014.

Did find a hvy duty "sliding axle" roll back under the Landoll Trailer site------really never found anything similar to yours.

Thanks-----still interested in more pictures once ya'll get warmed up!!!

DD

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ahhh, I see! Thanks for the link and advice!

Didn't even realize that would be an issue.I got a lot to learn!!

Farmer.

thats actually the only quirk they have. well that i can think of. low oil pressure is normal. they like to be ran from 2000-3600 all day. the 345 is a true truck engine. all guts. just mean nasty engines. the A727 tf backing it up is pretty self explanitory. its the king of automatics. then you should have dana 44 front and dana 70 rear. i think thats the most common. all engine parts are available from ihpa. superscoutspecialist. scoutparts.com. rockauto. your local crapa store. 304 and 345 share pistons so they're always available. you have a real truck there sir. thats the only way i can explain it. it just oozes cool. i hope you like her

The 3/4 ton trucks have a dana 60 rearend. The 1 tons had a dana 70 or corperate rear. Eason

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can I put 8 bolt rims off a 2012 ford on my 74 IH? I heard once there I a metric pattern on new rims. Is this the case here and if so how old of rims do I have to look for? I would like to put on something with a bit of a modern look but still find at the scrap yard for a reasonable price, if at all posiable.

Thanks

Farmer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No the 1999 and up Superdutys have metric rims. The 3/4 and 1 ton ford vans still have the old bolt pattern.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I found some rims, and the centre hole measures 6&1/8 inches across, and the original rims measure at 4&3/4 inch across. If the bolt pattern matches does that difference in the hub measurement matter??

Thanks

Farmer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think that all the newer wheels are "hub piloted" and the older trucks are "stud piloted". The manufacturers have done things like changing to metric bolt patterns to keep people from trying to mix the two styles of mounting. Your truck is obviously stud piloted, and if the wheels are also stud piloted (conical wheel nut seats), then it should be no problem using them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks chip man!

I'm pretty sure the holes are contoured. I thought after the centre hole would be slightly larger to make room for the cone that fits over the hub also. I know I won't be able to use the cone on the front for the locking hubs, but I'll give the rims a try!

Farmer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

New on the site; what's IHPA? Website? Can't locate. Thanks.

Eric

Payson, AZ

welcome eric. IHPA is IH parts america. formerly IHON IH Only of califunkia. ihpartsamerica.com is their website. they have a full parts store and tech forum of no b.s. guys. another good forum is binder planet

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...