Jump to content

560 diesel head studs


1958560

Recommended Posts

This morning when I was fueling up my 560 I noticed that the head gasket is leaking externally on the right front corner. Usually its the rear right corner that leaks. So I was wondering if anyone knows of a source for head studs for this tractor. I replaced the bolts when I rebuilt it a few years ago and the head and block were planed at that time. It doesn't run hot or bubble in the radiator, just leaks to the outside. I would be willing to try a set of studs if it would help. Thanks, Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I guess it has been 1144 hrs ago that I rebuilt it, so I probably shouldn't complain too much. The block and head were both decked at that time and I'll check the head when its off. Are the original head bolts special? I replaced them with 1/2" grade 8 bolts from Fastenal at that same time. It has been a loader tractor for the entire1144 hrs, so it hasn't been worked hard by any means. Do you suppose a try to retorque would do any good? It was retorqued after the first warm up when put together. I have tried to retorque the heads on these engines after a year or so and did not get any head bolt movement.Thanks, Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just pull the head off and buy a new head gasket from Case IH , then have the head planed and remove .020 off so this will raise the compression . Have the block all clean and wipe the head and the block down with brake clean , then give the head the old aluminum paint trick. 4 coats of spray paint and while it is still wet put it on and torque it down , after the tractor is warmed up to operating temp bring it back in for a re torque and valve adjustment, go 10 lbs over on the torque and it will be just fine .

I had one of these for tractor pulling many years ago and it was pushed past the limit and the paint trick worked great !!!

Danny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This head came from a different 282 to put on the original 236 and was planed then and again before I put it on this 282, so if its straight it probably doesn't need it again does it? Isn't there a minimum head thickness listed in the book, or is it ok to go further? Is there any difference between the CaseIh gasket and Felpro? I believe Case gasket is a felpro, just higher priced than from Napa. I always use Copper Cote on head gaskets, this would be the same as aluminum paint? I install guide bolts, paint the gasket, lay it on wet, then immediately set head on gasket and oil threads on bolts then torque and retorque/set valves after a warm up. I insist on valve specs at the high end of spec to help with starting. It has a starter from a 1086 on it, usually only takes a bump from the button and shes runnin. Did you use bolts, or studs on the puller? Thanks, Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This head came from a different 282 to put on the original 236 and was planed then and again before I put it on this 282, so if its straight it probably doesn't need it again does it? Isn't there a minimum head thickness listed in the book, or is it ok to go further? Is there any difference between the CaseIh gasket and Felpro? I believe Case gasket is a felpro, just higher priced than from Napa. I always use Copper Cote on head gaskets, this would be the same as aluminum paint? I install guide bolts, paint the gasket, lay it on wet, then immediately set head on gasket and oil threads on bolts then torque and retorque/set valves after a warm up. I insist on valve specs at the high end of spec to help with starting. It has a starter from a 1086 on it, usually only takes a bump from the button and shes runnin. Did you use bolts, or studs on the puller? Thanks, Rob

As far as minimum thinkness, the AERA provides the machine shop I work at with spec's, and new thickness is 4.240-4.250, with a minimum thickness of 4.230. That being said on many engines we do go under minimum thickness. Also I resently found that CASEIH gaskest are Felpro, it's written right on it, and I have had them side by side, they are the same. And the felpro is a better deal as the head set comes with parts for the injectors, where the caseih does not. And as far a removing .020 from the head to raise compression, this may be an ok process, but the best way to restore compression is to install new valve seats under the valves to raise the valves up. The valve recession spec is .003-.046 with max of .062. Many times valves are worn to .062 or worse, and removing .020 is a start in the right direction, but wont get valves perfectly in spec. As a kid I hated our d282 powered 656, then I redid the head and now love it, even bought another one for $600 that I am trying to bring back to life now.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This head came from a different 282 to put on the original 236 and was planed then and again before I put it on this 282, so if its straight it probably doesn't need it again does it? Isn't there a minimum head thickness listed in the book, or is it ok to go further? Is there any difference between the CaseIh gasket and Felpro? I believe Case gasket is a felpro, just higher priced than from Napa. I always use Copper Cote on head gaskets, this would be the same as aluminum paint? I install guide bolts, paint the gasket, lay it on wet, then immediately set head on gasket and oil threads on bolts then torque and retorque/set valves after a warm up. I insist on valve specs at the high end of spec to help with starting. It has a starter from a 1086 on it, usually only takes a bump from the button and shes runnin. Did you use bolts, or studs on the puller? Thanks, Rob

As far as minimum thinkness, the AERA provides the machine shop I work at with spec's, and new thickness is 4.240-4.250, with a minimum thickness of 4.230. That being said on many engines we do go under minimum thickness. Also I resently found that CASEIH gaskest are Felpro, it's written right on it, and I have had them side by side, they are the same. And the felpro is a better deal as the head set comes with parts for the injectors, where the caseih does not. And as far a removing .020 from the head to raise compression, this may be an ok process, but the best way to restore compression is to install new valve seats under the valves to raise the valves up. The valve recession spec is .003-.046 with max of .062. Many times valves are worn to .062 or worse, and removing .020 is a start in the right direction, but wont get valves perfectly in spec. As a kid I hated our d282 powered 656, then I redid the head and now love it, even bought another one for $600 that I am trying to bring back to life now.
Brad,

My engine machine shop keeps the valves as close to.003" recession as possible. The closer you can get to .003" the better. I also check the piston installed height. Pick the one that is the highest and get the rest up to that height. That is the slow, painful part of the job. The machine shop I use can lengthen the rods with slight offset fairly easily.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With the new head studs make sure to retorque, and then retorque again and again. This is the most common mistake made with special head studs. The really good studs will take 5-6 heat cycles with retorque between to reach the full stretch and have a normalized clamping force. After the initial torque and a warm up run at low power I back off one nut 1/4 turn then pull to recommended torque. Then go to the next in line and do the same. After each time you will find that the nut will take less and less to pull it back to the set torque. When you find that you gain no additional turn on the nut you have reached full stretch on that stud.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...