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VWJake

New Member, new project. Plenty of questions

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Latest update:

I finally got some time to work on the truck this past weekend.

I got the engine out on Saturday and flipped it over to start soaking things from the bottom. I drained and removed the fuel tank and left running board. I pulled the front axle off and removed the front springs. The steering box is apart and I've ordered new bushings/seals for it. I really should replace the sector shaft, but I haven't found the correct one so I'll get this one back together and see where we stand. I repaired a few cracks and some missing steel on front of the frame and started wire brushing the frame in preperation for POR-15. I figure if I'm this far into it, I may as well clean and paint everything while it's out and easy to work on. I'll take the front axle to the machine shop on Friday to get the king pins pressed out.

Slow n staedy.

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'til next time.

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More progress-

The front 3rd of the frame is stripped, degreased, etched, and POR-15'd. The front axle is at the machine shop. They're gonna take care of replacing the kingpins. I managed to remove the cam and crank from the shortblock I pulled from the truck. So far, #1 piston is the only one that'll move by hand. I managed to drive 2 and 3 further up in the bores. 4,5,and 6 refuse to move at all right now. The crank has a "240" cast into one side of the center counterweight... Hmmm I wonder. That'll have to wait for another time though.

Next time I'm home I hope to remove the cab and get the center of the frame cleaned and PORd and perhaps get the fuel tank cleaned and sealed.

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More progress on the rehab of my R-122

I pulled the fuel level sending unit to find about 1/4" to 3/8" of sediment built up in the bottom of the tank.

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The bits that look like gold flakes were some of the remains of the fuel level float. I found one pinhole in the tank and realizing that I didn't want to deal with all of the "material" from the cleaning/sealing process I found a guy that will boil it, fix any problems, seal and paint it for a small sum. Money well spent I say. I dropped off the radiator to have it recored/refurbed as someone clipped a tube and attached a different inlet nipple to teh upper tank some time back.

I picked the front axle up from the machine shop. It's great now. They bored and sleeved the spindles and installed the new kingpin kit. Perfect! Now I've just got to clean and paint the axle and it'll go back on.

I started picking at the rust on the driver's front quarter panel. I'll take some time to form replacement panels for before the fenders go back on. I'll pick up a bottle of mix gas next week and get started on the repairs.

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The cab is now off of the chassis and the center section of the chassis has been POR'd.

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I'm hoping to remount the cab next week once I do some cleanup work on the underside of the cab. I believe this is a Code 1606 cab. The front cab rubber isolators are close enough in size and shape to the "C" shaped rear engine mounts that I will use those to replace the cab mounts. Once the cab and the front metal are refitted I'll pull the bed for repair and completing the frame treatment.

It's a good feeling to start putting parts back together and mounting things on the frame. I bolted the new M/C in place and fitted up a few brake lines. I hope to have the front axle in place and possibly get as far as completing the front brakes before the end of next week. Time will tell.

The engine I thought I was getting from Ebay doesn't seem to have panned out. I haven't heard a peep from the seller in over a month. So, I need to take apart the complete engine and go to the machine shop to see what we can do.

Slow and steady

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Lookin like good headway!

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Yes, you are moving right along it seems. Hope you didn't already pay for the engine on ebay.

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Progress has been almost non-existant lately. I only got to spend a few hrs on the truck in the last 3wks. With the frame under the cab refinished I decided that it was time to remount the cab. I replaced all of the body mount rubbers except for the big rear pancake ones. I used SD/GD bellhousing isolators to replace the original front upper cab isolators. I just trimmed the small ring from the inner portion of the engine isolators and reglued them on the outside of the mounts to exactly replicate the original body mount.

The radiator shop cleaned both radiators. One was bad and the other was worse. They're gonna recore the bad one and I'll work on salvaging the tanks from the worse one at a later date.

The block that was in the truck when I bought it had 6 siezed pistons (rust). So far 1 is loose enough to move by hand. 2 others will move with a BFH and a wooden block. The other three are still stuck. Next time home I WILL get all of the pistons out and get the engine parts to the machine shop for evaluation/rebuilding.

I finally found a replacement fuel sender unit. It's not IH, but it does have the correct screw pattern and a brass float like the original. It was advertised as being for a 48-55 ford pickup. I installed new cotton webbing on the fuel tank mounts with 9/64" brass brake liner rivets in preperation for mounting the tank.

I hope to mount the tank, front suspension, front brakes, and the steering gear when I'm home next.

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Well I got both engines broken down today. The block with the stuck pistons has a crack running 3/4ths of the way down one bore and a crescent shaped piece cracked out of the bottom edge of another bore. The engine with the crack between 3 and 4 isn't any better. That crack is in the cylinder bore, the crankcase, and the water jacket. At this point I think I need a whole running engine to make any forward progress with this truck.

Anybody wanna sell an engine? I'm not afraid of shipping if that matters. I just want a known good core to start with or complete runner. Lemme know. 220, 240, etc. I'd like to keep it an SD, but is entertain whatever you've got for sale.

Jake

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I took both engines to the machine shop today. I think I have a hernia now... The machinist thinks he can save the HT141 block which looks to be a low compression sd240 w some extra horizontal reinforcement ribs in the block. We'll see how it turns out.

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This weeks progress:

I finally got around to mounting the fuel tank. I had to fab up one new tank strap since one was rusted in half. I used 16ga. steel plate and removed the reinforcement from the original strap to attach to the new one. The new one looks just like the original, Good to go.

I rebuilt the steering box a few months ago. Over the last few days I cleaned up the steering column, and steering wheel bezels. I'm retaining the original automatic trans column as someday I would like to replace the manual with the correct automatic. I chose red for the box, medium gloss black for the tube, and cast iron for the clamp and shifter linkage. With the paint dry the steering column/box was reinstalled. It's very satisfying to see parts going back on the truck.

I cleaned up the brake and clutch pedal assemblies to find that the bushings were scrapped and the pivot tube was badly worn as well. I bought 2 bronze bushings from McMaster Carr p/n-3741k38 and turned the O.D.s down to 1.503" for a press fit into the pedal levers. The I.D.s measure in at 1.383". Even with the new bushings the wobble in the pedals was unacceptable. I've ordered up some steel tubing to fab up a new pivot tube. I'll have to chuck the tube up in the lathe to get the proper fit in the original bracket.

Another area of major wear in the pedal assembly is the clutch cross shaft. The shaft centering collar in the clutch pedal pivot was worn severly and the shaft had a matching wear mark roughly 20% through the diameter of the shaft. In addition to that wear there two other major sections of wear leading me to fabbing a new shaft all together. A milling attachment, a 1/4" keyway seat cutter, and a 5/32" drill bit were all that were needed to create an exact copy of the original shaft on my Atlas lathe. Welding the original pivot tab to the new shaft made for an as-new clutch shaft. I'll have to wait 'til my next trip home to get the bar stock to create a new shaft centering collar for the clutch pedal.

After all of this work I expect the clutch and brake pedal operation will be as new and ready for atleast another 60yrs of daily use.

Next time home I'll complete and paint the pedal assemblies, refinish the engine tins, and hopefully have the pitman arm and left steering arm refurbinshed with new ball studs. Anyone know if the original ball studs had a tapered seat to register into the pitman arm and steering arm?

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I never get all of my "planned items" done when I'm home. This trip was no exception. With several trips/ family functions I was only able to spend about 8hrs in the garage over the week. In that time I cleaned/blasted/painted the oilpan, lifter cover, timing cover/backing plate, front motor mount, and valve cover. They're all semi gloss black. I also disassembled and cleaned most of the parts of the Carter 735S carb that came off of the SD220. I think I need to find a 736S though to satisfy the SD240 that will be going in the truck (hopefully early next month). I want to rebuild the 735S anyway as I would think I could get the engine to run with it 'til I could find the correct carb. I also stripped down the Delco distributor (p/n 1112355) . The shaft bushing was showing more play than I was comfortable with so the old bushing was driven out and I'm waiting for the new one to arrive. I ordered the bushing from the JD dealer p/n- 1909003.

I didn't touch the pedals or the steering bits this go-round. I fear the left steering arm is going to need a sleeve to install the new ball end... That's going to the machine shop along with the flywheel for resurfacing. I have all of the bar stock to complete the pedal assemblies. I just need the time to "make chips". I'll be home again in 2 weeks. I hope for some major progress then.

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Just recently found your posts for this project- great to read and see the progress you've made. I've tackled little fixes on older equipment and keep wondering about something bigger.

This may get me off the fence- you're doing a great job.

Funny how life tends to get in the way sometimes, huh?

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Yeah life does have a way of setting priorities. It's been about 1.5yrs since I posted here last. I've been steadily picking away at the projects on this truck. It first moved under it's own power in Jan 2014. I've had the engine (SD240) rebuilt. had to undersize the all of the bearings, sleeve the #6 hole, and bore it .030". I found the right carb, rebuilt the T9 that the truck came with, installed a new clutch, reworked the brakes on all 4 corners, new tires/tubes, new driveshaft, rebuilt the heater, rewired everything, electrified the wipers... The list goes on and on. The truck got about 250mi. put on it last summer/fall. It's not daily drivable yet, but I have high hopes for this spring/summer. I'm acquiring more parts/ideas daily for the future. My wife and I are about to relocate to Minneapolis/St Paul area. I'm hoping that living/working in the same state will allow me to work on this truck more and enjoy it more. It's been a fun trip so far and wouldn't trade the experience for anything.

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Thanks for the update.

I just found your post and enjoyed the pictures and the text that you provided.

You have tackled an amazing amount of work, on this truck, and you have done a great job getting it this far.

I appreciate, very much, you taking us along on your project.

I look forward to more news of your truck's progress.

From another old Binder lover,

Mark

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I'm still not done with it, but it's good enough for now.

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There's been a lot more metal work, but I was most pleased with the outcome of this one.

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VW

I'm very impressed with your progress. I'm sure that the work you had to do just to find something that would work for parts, and then find where they were, had to be a daunting task. Keep up the good work.

GT&T

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