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VWJake

New Member, new project. Plenty of questions

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Hello everyone,

I've been looking for a truck for 6-9 mo. now. I was willing to go either one of two directions- Buy a newer 4 door 6ft bed truck and sell my car or keep my car and buy an older truck with some character. I was digging through Craigslist and I found myself gravitating toward older trucks. I found a 1990 Ford F250 7.3L IDI that I was really diggin on. The next ad I opened up was for a 1955 International truck in Indiana. I fell in love with it instantly. After a chat with the wife I call the owner and before I knew it I had called Uhaul and rented an auto transporter, and borrowed a truck from a friend. Next day I was off to see the truck with cash in hand.

The truck has been sitting in field for at least 5 yrs. I was told the truck was taken out of service in the early to mid 80's. I'm guessing it dropped a valve or something as the head is currently missing along with the manifolds, carb, etc. After prying the R/F drum off to remove the shoes the truck was able to roll and we winched it onto the trailer. I checked out another '51 R-type truck frame that I was promised the Engine, trans, and any other useful parts from. the engine is lightly siezed (it turns ok in a small area, but you can feel the bores tighten up as you turn it in either direction. That motor ran as recently as 4yrs ago.

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The drive home wasn't eventful. It was all my '74 Sears SS/16 could do to jerk the truck off of the trailer. I kept breaking traction even with 360lbs in/on the rear wheels and me at 230lbs in the seat. On a positive note, the tractor didn't even break a sweat pushing the new toy up the driveway.

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Here's a few pics of the truck in my garage after unloading.

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The grain bed sides and the tailgate that will open from either the top or the bottom are pretty cool.

I spent a few hrs vacuuming out the mouse nests, crap, and other stuff form the cab. It's not pretty, but I can tell it's gonna turn out great.

So, this is a 1955 R-122 with an SD220 and it was sold with an automatic trans (someone converted it to a 3spd manual at some point). It has an 8ft. bed and aux springs. I haven't confirmed and other options yet, but I think it may have tinted glass. I'm going to order a build sheet soon.

My goal for the truck is a mechanical restoration for starters. The wife wants to learn how to drive stick, and we need something to pick up materials from the hardware store with. The braking system will be the first order of business. From there I'll sort out the driveline and electrical systems. Eventually we'll strip and paint the truck (at my wife's insistance- I love it just the way it is), but that will be many many years off right now. The truck isn't without it's rusty problems. The marker lights in the grille are rusted out, the tops of the fenders have a few perf. holes in them, the bed has a soft spot in the front edge, the driver's door needs the lower edge replaced, and a few other small issues. I'll post up pics/progress reports as I go. I'm sure I'll have questions as I go as well... Like "anybody know where I can find vent window seals for this cab?" I think it's actually a '55-'56 S-line cab (single rear window and different vent wings when compared to the 50-55 cab). Another one that comes to mind is where can I find the marker lights for the grille? I have one lens and thats it. I think I've found a few bezels for sale, but so far no reflector housings.

Anyway, I'll post another update when I get back home in a few weeks. I plan to strip/evaluate/ order parts for the braking system and check out the wheel bearings.

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Welcome to the wonderful world of 'Binders. I will say that I do hope you are able to do some fabricating because you will find that body panels are rare as hens teeth! That being said I also believe you will want to find out if the other frame is complete brake parts are a premium and I would suggest a disc brake conversion/possibly do a rear end swap with a Ford Explorer. You might get lucky and find the marker light parts on the web. The vent window seals are available from such places as IH Parts (here's a link; http://www.ihpartsamerica.com/forums/) or SouthlandIT in Lethbridge Alberta again here's a link; http://www.southlandit.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=frontpage&Itemid=1 Southland seems to have most parts that I am in need of for my '53 R130 and probably my '53 R160 Have fun with the old 'Binder and remember IHC also means "I'm Hopelessly Committed" (At least that is what my wife says) :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

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Nice save. Looks like mostly surface rust in the pictures. The late R series had the one piece rear window from what I have read. Automatic trans was a pretty rare option. Too bad it didn't still have it. I have heard of 120 series trucks with the 3 speed manual trans but never could see the logic in a truck that would likely be hauling some heavy weight. That extra low gear in a 4 speed was a real advantage and would save burning up clutch plates trying to start a heavy load in soft ground.

I need a park light lens for my R160 also. Should have bought the whole front clip I saw at a farm auction a couple of years ago.

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This being a late 55 truck it has a different set of vent windows than the 50- early 55s.. I haven't seen a set of those seals yet, but I'll double check. As for the rust repair, I'm confident enough that I can replace the metal that needs to be replaced. I'll prime/seal the repairs so they don't rot til we do paint it. I'm really looking forward to rebuilding and enjoying this truck.

Just so you know, after I got into vintage sears garden tractors it only took a yr and a half for me to end up with 5 of them (3 of which I've already restored).

That's interesting to hear about the auto trans. Guess ill be looking for the parts to replace it. I've been told the "other" trans in the frame is a 4spd, but I haven't confirmed it. With respect to the brakes I hope to pull the master and wheel cylinders next weekend. If I'm lucky I can hone and reseal everything. I am however prepared for the worst- the rear axle flex line was rotted off at the "T" near the pumpkin and everything else thus far is coated in rust. I'm guessing the bores are all rotted beyond repair. I won't say that "money is no object", but as a "labor of love" I will spend what needs to be spent to ensure our safety. I'm a bit confused about swapping in a ford rear end. Why should I change it? I understand the ratios are a 4.11 or higher, but that just makes it easier to move the truck. I'm not looking for a freeway flyer. I need more of an in town work type truck for now. Are these axles prone to failure?

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I was just giving advice to you to avoid the problems of looking for parts that are pretty much non-existant such as brake drums etc. If anything International was great at is Over-building their parts LOL The flex lines are still available (I just got a set for my R130) The master cylinders are also available from a few distributors. Wheel bearings are somewhat difficult to find although they are out there as well as the seals. I was just suggesting the Ford diff to get a more common rim for the old beauty as well. Those 6 X 7.25 bolt patterns are kind of unique.

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I wish you had the automatic as this option in a truck of that vintage was extremely rare you may actually have a decent rear ratio in your truck after all.

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I wish you had the automatic as this option in a truck of that vintage was extremely rare you may actually have a decent rear ratio in your truck after all.

According to my book "International Color History", International used a GM built turbo hydramatic transmission. Trucks with the automatic transmission also had a slighter higher horsepower rating to overcome power loss from the automatic transmission. They did this by increasing the compression ratio using domed pistons.

Your late model R should also have the push button door handles and the deeper side windows like the S series that followed.

Heres a video I shot last summer of mine.

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terrific video! That truck sounds great. I can hardly wait for the day that we start ours for the first time. Yeah, my truck has push button door handles, single rear glass, and the wider vent windows. The vin tag on the door states the truck put out 94hp - which falls right in line with the domed piston statement. I'm just dying to get home to start working on this thing.

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terrific video! That truck sounds great. I can hardly wait for the day that we start ours for the first time. Yeah, my truck has push button door handles, single rear glass, and the wider vent windows. The vin tag on the door states the truck put out 94hp - which falls right in line with the domed piston statement. I'm just dying to get home to start working on this thing.

Thanks,glad you enjoyed the video. You can't always go by the numbers on the tag. Mine says SD 240 but in fact some previous owner transplanted a BD264 which I think was a good move.

My book lists the R trucks with automatic trans. had a 108 hp SD 220 engine.

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Finally... I've been waiting three weeks to get to this truck to work on it. The truck does have a 4spd trans- still not sure which one, but it is a 4spd. The truck has 12"x 1-3/4" front brakes with single pot wheel cylinders and 12"x2" rear brakes with 2 pot 1-1/8" bore wheel cylinders. The master cylinder is manual only with a 1-1/8" bore. I managed to get 3 of the 4 drums off of the truck. I'm waiting for a 2-1/2" socket to arrive tomorrow to remove the R/R drum. The L/R was loose, so I turned that one out by hand. The wheel cylinders are off along with the master cylinder and as I suspected they are all scrap. The pitting is deep enough that they just aren't worth saving. I just ordered 4 cylinders, 2 sets of shoes, 3 hoses, 1 brake hardware set, and 4 wheel seals. I still need to buy material to recreate the hardlines, but I'll gather that tomorrow. I honestly suspect the rear drums are too thin, but I'll check them out tomorrow. The engine doesn't match the truck from what I can tell. While it is a Silver Diamond engine block that's in it, I don't think the S/N is correct. The door tag says: 296195. While I can't read it completely due to pitting, there just dont seem to be enough common numbers for it to be correct. There is also a number that doesn't make sense. HT141? Any thoughts?

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Thanks,

Jake

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I wish you had the automatic as this option in a truck of that vintage was extremely rare you may actually have a decent rear ratio in your truck after all.

According to my book "International Color History", International used a GM built turbo hydramatic transmission. Trucks with the automatic transmission also had a slighter higher horsepower rating to overcome power loss from the automatic transmission. They did this by increasing the compression ratio using domed pistons.

Your late model R should also have the push button door handles and the deeper side windows like the S series that followed.

Heres a video I shot last summer of mine.

If it was a GM built automatic, in those days, it would have most likely been the original 'hydramatic' 4 speed auto.

Here is a link to way more than you want to know. :P

http://en.wikipedia....wiki/Hydramatic

(They kinda missed the IH application) IH and Borg-Warner were close, and B-W developed the 'Ford-O-Matic, besides their own automatics, so......? IH also used Torque-Flites later.

Heres a 'blow-up' picture of one about to be installed on what appears to be an old Buick "nail valve" engine.

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From what I have been able to find out, the trannys were very similar, differing in the "adapters" necessary to bolt to the engine of choice.

Like I said, Way more than you wanted--------------

Mike

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I managed to finish taking the entire braking system out of the truck today. Starting with heat, then penetrating oil, and then flare nut wrenches got everything apart without issue. This truck seems to be full of easter eggs. I found a sweet one today...

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Here's a pic of the L/R drum. The R/R doesn't look any better.

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Tomorrow I'll going to pick up the other engine and trans. I'll pick up the new brake lines tomorrow as well.

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Great find :D

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I finally realized that an HT141 is an engine from an IH combine... Hmph. Waste not want not I guess.

I made it back to the sellers farm today to pick up the other engine/trans, another cylinder head, and a u-joint with the proper caps (I hope), another radiator, and another spare wheel assembly. He also seems to have better condition front and rear axles for me too. I'll get them next time. I scooped up the new brake lines from Napa and a box arrived today from Rock auto with soft lines, one front cylinder and the front shoes. The rest of the brake parts should arrive tomorrow. Looking forward to a firm pedal soon.

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I started fiddling with the engine/trans the other day. I pulled all 6 plugs. 1 and 3 came out sorta hard. The threads in the head are ok. The plugs were rusted... I fogged the cylinders with PB Blaster for 2 days before I started rotating the crank back and forth. At first it wouldn't rotate over 45* after about 15-20min I was spinning the engine round and round. Good to go... or so I thought. As I looked closer at the engine I found a huge crack on the right side of the block. It may go all the way to the head surface, I won't know 'til I get home next time to pull the head.

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Anybody have a picture of what's on the other side of that crack?

I've been reading up on cracked block repairs. Looks like 4 options depending on severity of the crack. 1st and probably least attractive option is JB weld. 2nd and the most alluring option for me is Lock-n-Stitch or pinning. 3rd option is furnace welding. 4th option is a replacement block.

Any thoughts?

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I say nay nay to jb. thats rough depending on how bad the crack is. it may pay off to replace the engine. someone else with a little more experience will chime in im sure

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I've heard that blocks can be welded but have had no experience with them. Looks like someone didn't have strong enough anti freeze in this one. I've used JB weld to repair a damaged thread in the block drain in my B264 engine with good luck but yours looks like it is beyond JB capabilities. There must be a few old parts trucks around with a solid block in them. Maybe even an IH combine?

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And the hits just keep on comin'... I'm definately open to finding another block, or better yet a complete running engine. The shortblock currently in the truck in an HT141 that if I understand correctly means it came from a 141 combine. It would seem highly likely that it is actually a relabeled SD220 or SD240. I'm going to get it freed up and tear them both down for comparison. Perhaps I'll get lucky and find that blocks are interchangable. Then I can fix/replace the cracked block at a later date.

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if i remember right this is a rebadged sd240 or bd240. we had an lp model. i'll dig in my manuals tonight and see what i can find

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Looks like the answer to your problems just three posts above this one. A BD 264 engine that will bolt right in to your truck. Just depends how far apart you guys are.

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Thanks, I've left him a PM if the first guy in line backs out. I just saw a complete runner on Ebay in NY. But alas, it is a bit too far away to "pick up"...

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That engine was sold before I could contact the seller.

I found a supposed running SD220 on Ebay. As luck would have it, I am currently working about 2hrs south of that engine. I think I'll bid on it and see what happens. I suspect I can buy it and ship it home for less that I can build an engine from the parts I currently own. I'm guessing that rehabbing either block and subsiquently building a fresh mill will run somewhere around $2000 - $2500.

A running engine (even if it does need a rebuild soon) would greatly shorten the length of the reconstruction.

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Making some progress on the truck. I've managed to remove all of front sheetmetal (fenders, inner fenders, grille, hood, bumper). I dropped the drivershaft, pulled the trans, and jerked the carrier housing from the rear axle. Turns out that I've got myself a 4.11 rear end. Too bad the input yoke is damaged from the great cobb job that I posted pictures of earlier. I'm not sure if I'll be able to save the yoke- time will tell. The tie rod and drag link are removed. The right spindle was frozen solid. A few hours and some PB has the spindle flopping around loose as a goose now. Problem is that the bushings are shot and the kingpin has worn into the spindle. It looks too deep to install an O/S pin so I'll be looking for a replacement (or possibly getting this one bored and sleeved). The left spindle is loose, but still within the bushing so I think I'll be able to save that one. Some light heat and 5lb sledge and I still couldn't get the right king pin to move. Grrr. The steering box needs to be rebuilt. The sector shaft will wiggle close to an 1/8" side to side so I'll be tearing into that soon too. I'm still tryin' to get that dang engine block unstuck. So far the bores have been soaking in PB Blaster for about 5wks. I've struck all pistons repeatedly with a wooden block and a 3lb sledge. Yesterday I managed to pull the pan, remove all 6 rod caps, loosen the mains, remove the oil filter housing and fuel pump, and pulled the lifter inspection cover from the side of the block. I'm beginning to wonder if the cam/followers are also siezed. On a good note, the number one slug almost popped out. The engine is just far enough off of TDC that the big end of the rod won't pass by the crank journal to come up the bore. Oh well. I'm not giving up on this block. I'll keep soaking everything. Before the weekend is over the engine/bellhousing will be removed from the truck. I'm hoping that removing the timing gear and trying rotate the crank and cam seperately. Divide and conquer!<br /><br />I placed an order with Oldinternational.ca the other day. I nabbed a pair of of triple diamond mud flaps, new body mount rubbers, new engine mounts, wipers n arms, a gas cap, a king pin kit, park light lenses and gaskets, and a few other bits n' pieces.<br /><br />Looks like I'll be rebuilding everything on this truck. I've gotta get the front axle off the truck and send it out to have the king pins pressed out so I can see where we stand there. Then I need to pull all of the springs and replace the pivot bushings. While I'm at it I may wire wheel the frame and paint it before I start putting anything back together... Oh geeze here it goes.<br /><br />

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