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656 charging system issues


BOOMER LANDT

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Went to start my Farmall 656 Hydro Diesel today and the batteries were dead . Hadn't run it for 3 weeks but it's never gave any problems and the previous owner installed new batteries right before I bought it 4/2011 . I put a volt meter on it and it was 1.7 volts at the starter :o .

Put a charger on it for 30 minutes and it fired right off . Put the charger away and put a volt meter on it to see if it was charging and it was putting out 17 volts . Turned the lights on field position and it dropped to 15 . Previous owner stated he had the original alternator rebuilt in 2008 and the belt is new and proper tightness .

Took a wooden hammer handle and tapped the back of the alternator with it running and saw sparks on the last tap . Rechecked voltage and it was at 15 with everything off . Used it at PTO speed for 2 hours mowing weeds with a stalk cutter and after putting it away the batteries were at 12.9 volts with tractor shut off . I'm thinking something is wacky with the alternator <_< . Would sticky brushes cause it to drain the batteries ? Could I have a short or bare wire inside and hitting the case made it spark ?

Any thoughts ?

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Some times you'll see the brushes spark inside . But from what you posted about the reading they sound like it;s in working order ' But then i'm not an expert . You might have a cell in the battery that is going bad , this will drain the battery .

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Still using 2 6 volts? My '68 is still 2 6's just to keep it original. If one gets weaker than the other it seems the problems won't get better until you replace the pair again. I did have some of the same charging issues that you describe and a new regulator seemed to fix it. Wasn't impressed by the quality of the one bought at my Case IH dealer but it does work. Rollie

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First off let me answer some of the questions :

1 It's got two six volt batteries . (both new 3/2011)

2 It's got the original alternator .(rebuilt 2008)

3 It does have a seperate voltage regulator but looks like it got replaced not too long ago (maybe 2008?)

I did not know it had the seperate regulator and finally found it tucked up under the right rear side panel :blush: .

Tonight I checked the voltage before starting and it was 12.95 volts . After starting it slowly went up to 15.95 volts .

I'm thinking I'll replace the voltage regulator and see what happens . Pretty sure that's the cause of they high voltage (15-17).

If the regulator stuck would it drain the batteries ? (yesterday it had less than 2 volts at the begining)

Thanks for the help B)

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Yes - it can drain the batteries if a mechanical type regulator sticks.

I do not have a part number handy, but there is a electronic version of that regulator available as well.

I doubt cnh sells it, but I'm betting whomever rebuilt your alternator could get it for you as well.

It would also fit most GM cars 1963 through probably about 1970.

If you don't care about originality a 10SI alternator with a internal regulator (same as thethe 66 series) could be installed easily.

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Have you load tested your batteries?Do you have a good 12Volt battery you can substitute for testing? Just some more thoughts, so many times it is the battery(s) all along. :)

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I doubt cnh sells it, but I'm betting whomever rebuilt your alternator could get it for you as well.

I had my wife pickup a CNH regulator today and it's going back . Made in China and has no weight to it (parts guy cut open box because he thought it was empty) :angry: .

Doc it was the previous owner in NW MN. that had alternator rebuilt , no myself ;) .

Don't have a 6volt ability on my load tester but I'm thinking they wouldn't cause the 17 volt overcharging issue .

Had NAPA cross the part # and I'll have it tomorrow so I'll keep you all posted .

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Overcharging may be caused by a poor connection of the wire connected to the R terminal on the alternator. That will keep the relay from closing inside the regulator and as a result the voltage will be sensed only after coming through the indicator light bulb and the external resistor at the regulator instead of direct from the key switch. With an open relay the more demand placed on the alternator the greater the difference in voltage between terminals 3 and 4 at the regulator. The regulator controls the voltage in regards to the voltage at terminal 4.

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I know how to tell . Get a Affgan terrorist and hook him up [ i'm sure many of you have seen or heard of this done ] That should tell you if it's working or not. :lol: :lol: :lol:

I like his idea! Maybe even take two and hook them in series!

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