Jump to content

1863 No Start


BOOMER LANDT

Recommended Posts

After all the no start problems I had to wade thru when I bought this I thought it was done <_< .

Recap : Has new starter & key switch . Now about 1/2 the time it will just click when trying to start. The only way to get it going is to switch the PTO on & off .

Sometimes one time will work & some times it will take several clicks back/forth :angry: .

Any thoughts before I start drinking again ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you are getting a click but no crank I would think there is a good chance that the starter relay is going bad. If you had said there was no noise the I think I would replace the PTO switch and give it a go. Not sure on that new a cadet but the older ones also have a neutral switch and some have the deadman switch under the seat. I do not remember on the deadman switch if it ties into the start circuit or just the ignition circuit but other two do for sure. I would find the relay and connect a test light to the wire that energizes the starter relay and play with it until you get the no crank condition. If you have power to the relay then I would say relay is bad, if no power then check the PTO and neutral saftey switches to see where you are loosing the circuit. Good luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sounds like your not getting 12 volts at starter when cranking.we install relay kits to make sure it gets 12 volts at starter ALL the time

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Starter solenoid/ Relay not getting full juice. MTD/cub cadet.com has wiring diagram in parts lookup that may help trace. Make sure all grounds are good.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the input & sorry it's taken awhile to get back :blush: .

I replaced the starter w/solenoid when I first bought it along with the key switch because at that time it would click but not start . After doing this it was ok . The new problem is from time to time it will do nothing when trying to start until you click PTO switch back and forth .

Problem is it doesn't do it all the time and I gave this to my Mom & Step Dad to use to replace a 122 & 149 so I rarley use it myself to get the nostart .

I find myself wishing these newer machines didn't have so much electrical crap on them <_< .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you check your grounds? Sometimes they put so much paint on them it mess up the grounds and they end up grounding through the clutch which eventually destroys the clutch. Sounds like you have a bad ground or wiring issue, time for multi meter, electrical schmatic just my 2 cents.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you check your grounds? Sometimes they put so much paint on them it mess up the grounds and they end up grounding through the clutch which eventually destroys the clutch. Sounds like you have a bad ground or wiring issue, time for multi meter, electrical schmatic just my 2 cents.

The battery ground cable is new & mounted on an engine bolt IIRC (factory location) . Is there/should there be a ground from engine to frame ?

Not being a smartass here but I don't know what to check/look for on these newer models as the 122/149 models it replaced had 1/10 the wire and hand PTO's <_< .

Does the PTO have a ground ? You can't see crap on these with all the tin/plastic covers .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm pretty sure your wiring is similar to the 2000 series tractors which I've become quite familiar. The key thing you said here is the turning the PTO on and off and then it will start which is a very common problem with 2000 series. There is a relay under the dash that runs the safety circuit - seat, brake pedal, reverse, PTO. That relay is the biggest POS headache on my 2165, when it goes out all I get is a click and it won't turn over, or I'll be going along and ithe engine will just die. I've had so many problems with that relay that I keep a couple spares on hand at all times. It could also be the PTO switch itself, I've replaced mine twice during the last two winters, snow blowing seems to get the switch wet and then it freezes up or something, but it will turn over and not fire when it goes out. Also look at your fuel shut off solenoid (anti-backfire valve). If you find the solenoid bad, you can remove it, cut the plunger off the end and reinstall it to plug the hole - just be ready for the shotgun like blast when you shut it down hot. I had all sorts of charging system issues and found that the fuel solenoid was shorting out and draining my battery.

I've been planing to re-wire my tractor delete the interlock, you could do so as well. The engine can be killed using the fuel shut off only - just kill power to the fuel solenoid, the charging circuit is just the single wire coming off the regulator on the side of the engine - connect that through the key switch. The PTO can be run stand alone - key power through a toggle switch to the clutch wire. The start circuit can be run with start position voltage from the key to the S terminal on the starter solenoid etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...