786 Draft arm leak

[New Englander]

It’s leaking at the left side crank arm. Since that side is the splined side, it looks like the O-ring can be replaced without removing the tube, PTO, etc. Am I missing something?

[DirtBoyz07]

You will need to drain the oil, pull the PTO, then measure the treads on the draft linkage where it bolts to the tube so you get it back where it is now. Make sure you pull the U clamp out from under the tube after removing the bracket or it will get caught when you trying to slide it out.

With any luck you will be able to remove your lower links, start with the right side and work to the left side, there are timing dots on the tube and the shaft for when you go back together. If the tube is all pitted up you will need to replace it or you will get to do this again !!!!

Good Luck, Danny

[New Englander]

Obviously not what I wanted to hear but thanks Danny. It sounds like a job I'll do around January or February. There's no rush for it now, I can use the bucket wrench for now.

[DirtBoyz07]

It won't hurt anything just makes a mess, you can start spraying some good penetrating /rust eating type oil on those pins and the parts on the right side of the hitch so things will come apart for you in Jan /Feb. Those orings fit in the rearend housing that you need to replace. Just look it up on Case IH parts and you can see what you are going after.

Danny

[New Englander]

I guess I should have gone with my gut on this one. You can change the left side without pulling the whole thing apart. The left side will slide right off, Here is a picture of the tube with the failed Oring partially removed and a picture of the removed arm with the Oring that seals it to the torsion bar. No need to remove the PTO unless you need to do the right side.

It was good to get the PTO out anyway as the intake screen needed to be cleaned as well as the case bottom.

[aar]

Did u go ahead and pull the torsion bar out and replace the right hand o-ring? it will be twisted and cracked just like the other one

[New Englander]

Did u go ahead and pull the torsion bar out and replace the right hand o-ring? it will be twisted and cracked just like the other one

I'd really kick myself if I didn't. I just posted this in case anyone has just the left side leaking as I did. You could actually change it without even draining the oil if you moved quickly.

I've got the whole mess apart anyway for two new pumps and an MCV valve kit. I don't want to be back in there.

[aar]

Ok good, and yes u can just do the left one on those, but I've always found they were both bad.

[pete23]

Back in the day when these tractors were newer I used to replace a lot of left side o-rings as they were the ones that leaked. I would imagine with their age now that the right side would be shot also but it was rare then.

[New Englander]

I pulled the right side out anyway and the O ring was OK. It would be just a matter of time though when it wouldn't be OK so I've no regrets about pulling the PTO.

I suspect the left side might tend to roll the ring since it has slightly more movement. It's a slide fit on the splines of the tube.

Pulling the PTO let me pull the suction tube. That O ring was slightly cut.