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TimsIHtractors

Loadstar questions

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I was looking at my IH truck.... Is there a "tenth" spot in the odometer? Depending how you look at it it could have 177,000 miles. I drove it mostly in the dark and didn't stare at the odometer enough to notice. Guy swears on his grave and all the evidence points straight at a low miled retired fire truck (holes in the fenders where the red flashers were mounted, etc). I was curious. Doesn't change how I look at the machine. :wub:

My next question is that when I pick up the air filter it drips oil. Is it supposed to be a wet filter? Sure seems to leak nice fresh oil from somewhere. Someone asked me if there was oil pumped up there and drained down elsewhere and I raised an eyebrow. I thought they were over wet filters by this time, especially in a truck. I haven't been able to tinker with it, its just parked in the shed waiting for springtime. I just didn't think the filter should drip oil.... And on the topic of air intakes, it doesn't seem to sit over the carburetor properly, seems to wobble back and forth. How do I get it to properly sit where it should?

I also BLEW a spark plug out of a hole on the way, the metal of the spark plug is still in the threads but after listening and investigating I ran her on 7 the rest of the way (holy balls still no shortage on power!!!). I have the spark plug, it laned up in the fender, and it seems the metal of the plug itself is still in tact (old style spark plug with the bent piece of wire on the end, not the newer 90* tip style, looks like OEM). Do I have any concern for anything still down in the cylinder? There is no knocking or anything, I figured the spark plug warmed up and the porcelin cracked, sending the spark plug out of the hole. I plan on changing all the plugs at the same time, was wondering what plugs I should go buy. I am a bit concerned about what I'm going to run into pulling the metal out of the holes. I hope I'm not going to have big problems twisting them out. The last time they were changed it was before I was born, I can surely see that. Any tips or suggestions?

I saw the post about the stamp ear where the engine size and serial number is located. I know I asked before but I was wondering if there was anything else that would show what engine was in this. The owner said it had a 392, but I haven't fully confirmed. What was the listed horsepower for 304, 345, and 392 in 1600 applications? The inside of the door says the engine horsepower but it doesn't say the CID of the engine. And I apologize, I can't remember what that horsepower number was. I will see this weekend (maybe tonight).

What is the method for adjusting the parking brake? Might doesn't go quite tight enough, I was wondering how to adjust that so I don't have to worry about it. It'll hold on small slopes, but it will definately slide if parked on a hill. I crawled underneath to see how it works, but wanted to hear it from you guys.

Thank you!!! Pictures to come, I have it wedged between a gravity box and roller mill so the pictures right now aren't great, and a couple poor ones of it goin down the road. I'll see this new picture system and try them here....

Sweet!!! It worked!!! I can handle this system!

post-307-1233344474_thumb.jpg

post-307-1233344492_thumb.jpg

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Look closely at the odometer. Most Loadstars had white on black numbers for miles and black on white numbers for tenths.

In regards to the spark plug, if you have run the engine without hearing anything coming apart inside I think you will be okay.

There is a lot of discussion about brands of spark plugs. OEM was Champion but their quality isn't what is used to be.

If the air filter is an oil bath filter, yes it will drip oil. If it is a dry element, it shouldn't have any oil in it at all. If it is wobbling, it most likely isn't seating properly. With oil bath filters it can sometimes be difficult getting them to seat properly.

Depending on what kind of e-brake you have determines what adjustment is needed. Until you determine what you have explaining adjustment would be a waste of time.

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I'm not sure what year your Loadstar is, but here is a picture of my '67 Loadstar 1600. It shows 56,340 with no tenths.post-7135-1233386235_thumb.jpg

Also if your air cleaner looks like the one in the second picture, yes its still a oil bath. Hope this helps.post-7135-1233386251_thumb.jpg

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Yes, my 71 Loadstar odometer will read into the hundreds of thousands. It is currently somewhere in the 112,000 range. IH kniew these trucks were going to run up a lot of miles in their lifetime.

Air cleaner on mine is also an oil bath . I guess you could adapt a dry type cleaner from a Scout engine but I wouldn't bother as the oil bath works fine. Just change the oil in it every engine oil change. The air cleaner should sit down level and tight if its on properly. They have to line up just right for the pcv hose and the brake booster hose to attach to either side of the air cleaner.

Spark plugs, can't recall the number on them as I have only bought maybe a couple of sets in the 25 years the truck has been on this farm. If your have been in a long time it might be a good plan to soak them with penetrating oil before trying to loosen. I've seen people strong enough to twist a plug off in the head. Then you have a bigger problem.

Horsepower rating on my 304 is 180 net at 4400 rpm. Can't comment on the bigger engines.

Parking brake on mine is a drum on the rear of the transmission with lever beside the shifter. Its usualy pretty good at holding when properly adjusted but don't ask me how as it has been too long since I worked on this one. Just make sure it holds really good. Otherwise you (or your driver) can accidentally drive away with the brake dragging. You will soon wonder what that burning smell is. :angry:

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I'm not sure what year your Loadstar is, but here is a picture of my '67 Loadstar 1600. It shows 56,340 with no tenths.

Also if your air cleaner looks like the one in the second picture, yes its still a oil bath

Just noticed on Red48Ms truck pictures that it aappears to have a hydraulic clutch. At least I am assuming thats what the extra master cylinder is for. I see IH also still used the older fifties style gauges in your Loadstar. That speedometer is identical to the one in my S-160. By 1971 (maybe earlier) they went to individual dials with a smaller speedometer and separate oil, gas, heat and amp gauges. I'll attach a picture of mine to show. That empty space on the left of the speedometer is where the optional tachometer would go.

post-90-1233436164_thumb.jpg

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I'm not sure what year your Loadstar is, but here is a picture of my '67 Loadstar 1600. It shows 56,340 with no tenths.

Also if your air cleaner looks like the one in the second picture, yes its still a oil bath

Just noticed on Red48Ms truck pictures that it aappears to have a hydraulic clutch. At least I am assuming thats what the extra master cylinder is for. I see IH also still used the older fifties style gauges in your Loadstar. That speedometer is identical to the one in my S-160. By 1971 (maybe earlier) they went to individual dials with a smaller speedometer and separate oil, gas, heat and amp gauges. I'll attach a picture of mine to show. That empty space on the left of the speedometer is where the optional tachometer would go.

My '64 Loadstar looks like the '67 pic. It has hydraulic clutch also. A good fix for these things is to stiffen the firewall vertically at the master cylinders, it helps to let out the clutch smoothly. The wall flexes too much.

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My '64 Loadstar looks like the '67 pic. It has hydraulic clutch also. A good fix for these things is to stiffen the firewall vertically at the master cylinders, it helps to let out the clutch smoothly. The wall flexes too much.

I forgot to mention that my 71 has a simple mechanical clutch linkage, no hydraulics. In fact I have never owned a vehicle, IH or otherwise, with a hydraulic clutch.

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My '64 Loadstar looks like the '67 pic. It has hydraulic clutch also. A good fix for these things is to stiffen the firewall vertically at the master cylinders, it helps to let out the clutch smoothly. The wall flexes too much.

I forgot to mention that my 71 has a simple mechanical clutch linkage, no hydraulics. In fact I have never owned a vehicle, IH or otherwise, with a hydraulic clutch.

Wow. I thought the 60s were all about getting juiced. :lol:

Tim, did the broken plug come out?

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My '64 Loadstar looks like the '67 pic. It has hydraulic clutch also. A good fix for these things is to stiffen the firewall vertically at the master cylinders, it helps to let out the clutch smoothly. The wall flexes too much.

I forgot to mention that my 71 has a simple mechanical clutch linkage, no hydraulics. In fact I have never owned a vehicle, IH or otherwise, with a hydraulic clutch.

Wow. I thought the 60s were all about getting juiced. :lol:

Tim, did the broken plug come out?

I have most of the ceramic, the metal wire core of the plug, and the metal hex portion is still threaded in the head. By looks I am missing some chunks of the ceramic. The plug shot out and landed in the wheel well, so after driving 10 miles to stop to do further inspection I crawled in and found it. I have it in the glove box of the truck I will take a picture of it and the setup as it is when I get home again. I know what the brass fuel jet in a Super M sounds like in the engine, so I was kind of figuring I'd hear something at least close if I had ceramic pieces in there. I also wanted to pull a plug to compare a whole plug to the blown plug to see how much material I am missing.

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:rolleyes:

I was looking at my IH truck.... Is there a "tenth" spot in the odometer? Depending how you look at it it could have 177,000 miles. I drove it mostly in the dark and didn't stare at the odometer enough to notice. Guy swears on his grave and all the evidence points straight at a low miled retired fire truck (holes in the fenders where the red flashers were mounted, etc). I was curious. Doesn't change how I look at the machine. :wub:

My next question is that when I pick up the air filter it drips oil. Is it supposed to be a wet filter? Sure seems to leak nice fresh oil from somewhere. Someone asked me if there was oil pumped up there and drained down elsewhere and I raised an eyebrow. I thought they were over wet filters by this time, especially in a truck. I haven't been able to tinker with it, its just parked in the shed waiting for springtime. I just didn't think the filter should drip oil.... And on the topic of air intakes, it doesn't seem to sit over the carburetor properly, seems to wobble back and forth. How do I get it to properly sit where it should?

I also BLEW a spark plug out of a hole on the way, the metal of the spark plug is still in the threads but after listening and investigating I ran her on 7 the rest of the way (holy balls still no shortage on power!!!). I have the spark plug, it laned up in the fender, and it seems the metal of the plug itself is still in tact (old style spark plug with the bent piece of wire on the end, not the newer 90* tip style,

looks like OEM). Do I have any concern for anything still down in the cylinder? There is no knocking or anything, I figured the spark plug warmed up and the porcelin cracked, sending the spark plug out of the hole. I plan on changing all the plugs at the same time, was wondering what plugs I should go buy. I am a bit concerned about what I'm going to run into pulling the metal out of the holes. I hope I'm not going to have big problems twisting them out. The last time they were changed it was before I was born, I can surely see that. Any tips or suggestions?

I saw the post about the stamp ear where the engine size and serial number is located. I know I asked before but I was wondering if there was anything else that would show what engine was in this. The owner said it had a 392, but I haven't fully confirmed. What was the listed horsepower for 304, 345, and 392 in 1600 applications? The inside of the door says the engine horsepower but it doesn't say the CID of the engine. And I apologize, I can't remember what that horsepower number was. I will see this weekend (maybe tonight).

What is the method for adjusting the parking brake? Might doesn't go quite tight enough, I was wondering how to adjust that so I don't have to worry about it. It'll hold on small slopes, but it will definately slide if parked on a hill. I crawled underneath to see how it works, but wanted to hear it from you guys.

Thank you!!! Pictures to come, I have it wedged between a gravity box and roller mill so the pictures right now aren't great, and a couple poor ones of it goin down the road. I'll see this new picture system and try them here....

Sweet!!! It worked!!! I can handle this system!

When i was reeding this i thought you must have a 392 & when i got down further i see you do.

Does it take any water? was it on the right side? Like #6 cyl?

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I dont think you will have any problem getting them out, But take it easey on them you dont need more problems.

Then do a compression check on it & keep in mind what cyl. the plug bew out of.

Dont get the plug wires mixed up.

But check the water level in the radiator & post what you find.

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I looked over the truck today and then came to the board...

The odometer has black numbers on white reading 177401.

Serial number is 416060H788304. Is there a 304 coincidence?

I also saw the inside of the door says 180 net at 4400, which according to Loadstar puts it at a 304. I crawled under the truck but couldn't reach the stamp on the block from where it is parked, but I did discover a broken front leaf spring (the top one in the set) so I guess it was good I crawled under there. Any good places to find a replacement?

The plugged that popped is I'm assuming #8, it is the one closest to the passenger side headlight. I saw some part numbers on the exhaust manifold but was curious if there were different manifolds for the different engines. If there are different manifolds I can catch that part number.

The sun was perfect for me today to see the parking brake... I am fairly certain I can figure it out now myself, thank you very much!!!

What is the tank under the drivers seat? I was trying to find where the lines went but on the frozen mud of the shed I was freezing and sore crawling around on my back. Looked to be a brake fluid resevior? I was suprised at its size! I thought it might have been a hydraulic resevior for a hoist but I doubt that is the case.

I did NOT check the antifreeze level, I can probably do that before I leave here and post back tonight. What is the significance of its level in relation to the problems I've discussed?

I am mildly upset but I am thinking the owner was lied to when HE bought the truck. He was certain the truck had 17,000 miles and had the 392, I still believe him about the fire truck part of it. Has an unusual maintence log container mounted in the cab of the truck which I don't have a key to, and the frame/pivot holes are in phenominal condition, along with the holes in the fenders where extra lights/sirens get mounted and the extra wiring taped off at the ends in the backs and fronts.

Has two rust/dents above the window of the back of the cab, I will post pictures so somone can guess what they are from. Something bumped/rubbed there quite often at one point in its life.

If I think of more I will post!!! THANK YOU!!! I'm learnin!

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the H788304 is your serial number.

i will run your line set ticket for you if you like.

Mike

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I also saw the inside of the door says 180 net at 4400, which according to Loadstar puts it at a 304. I crawled under the truck but couldn't reach the stamp on the block from where it is parked, but I did discover a broken front leaf spring (the top one in the set) so I guess it was good I crawled under there. Any good places to find a replacement?

I guess until you find the i.d. on the engine block theres no telling for sure what size the engine is . Might have been 304 originally and then swapped out for a 392 by a previous owner.

Most any good spring shop should be able to fix you up with new or re-arched front springs. Seems to me most of the Loadstar trucks I've seen are sitting so low in front because their springs have been collapsed due to overloading. Thats how mine was. Looked like the front tires would almost rub on the inside of the fender tops. Made a world of difference after the spring shop re-arched and added a leaf to the front. It sets up way high now. Still rides good and looks a lot better too.

Can't say what the tank under the drivers seat might be. Mine does not have one. The hyd tank and pump are a self contained unit off to the right and behind the transmission on mine.

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Mike - If you would be willing to run a line-set for me that would be great!!! I would throughally appreciate it!!!!

Wow, I will take a picture of this extra tank and post pictures. Looks like it plumbs into something but I am completely not sure. Like I said, the less I could crawl around on that frozen clumpy dirt the happier I would be. :lol: I got under the drivers seat to try to look at the engine, saw the tank, and then I got under by the transmission, looked at the tank a little closer, and checked out the parking brake. I never got to the radiator though, combination completely forgot and too cold.

What size of grain box can I run on this? I know it is a 12 foot frame, but I didn't know if that means 12 foot box or that you can put a 14 foot box on it with the hinge two feet (16 foot box, etc) in from the back or what not. I am completely unfamiliar with grain trucks, as many as I've filled with the combine I never really looked at them. This year was the first year I got REALLY burned not having anything to put my grain in waiting for a truck to come, and my crop is still in the field. I figured I could at least have something of my own to dump into before another truck came.

What is a good price for a box? I am looking at a couple, one has a really good hoist but the box isn't that good, and I think I have some leads on boxes without hoists. Thanks for the info.

FWIW - My future plans are to have this truck available to take grain to town if I want but mostly an around-farm transport, like having a stationary auger to fill trucks while I fill gravity boxes and this truck and dump into the auger. I do NOT plan on driving overloaded in my hilly country, but that doesn't mean I can't handle a bigger box and just limit how much I fill it before going to town. If it is just sitting at the transport auger it wouldn't be so bad to have a bigger box if I'm just going to dump it. When not in harvest I plan on driving it to shows too.

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What size of grain box can I run on this? I know it is a 12 foot frame, but I didn't know if that means 12 foot box or that you can put a 14 foot box on it with the hinge two feet (16 foot box, etc) in from the back or what not. I am completely unfamiliar with grain trucks, as many as I've filled with the combine I never really looked at them. This year was the first year I got REALLY burned not having anything to put my grain in waiting for a truck to come, and my crop is still in the field. I figured I could at least have something of my own to dump into before another truck came.

What is a good price for a box? I am looking at a couple, one has a really good hoist but the box isn't that good, and I think I have some leads on boxes without hoists. Thanks for the info.

Can't really give any advice on grain box prices or what size is best. I'll just say that

my 1600 came with an 8 by 15 foot box. 42 inches high. It will hold a good 350 bushels of wheat which will

be well over the GVW of the truck by at least 10,000 pounds but it handles it ok. I don't

have my wheelbase at hand but its got to be at least 175 inches I'd guess. As you can see in

this picture the 15 foot box has a fair bit of overhang on my truck. Not a big problem unless

when your unloading there is interference with the grain auger or hopper.

post-90-1234840336_thumb.jpg

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Tim,

Your truck came with a V304 engine serial number 572459.

Your truck was originally white.

Mike

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Tim,

I live in Brooklyn just 10 miles south of Madison. Are you a member of IHCC Wisconsin Chapter #4?

Mike

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Tim,

I live in Brooklyn just 10 miles south of Madison. Are you a member of IHCC Wisconsin Chapter #4?

Mike

Mike - I probably haven't sent in my dues. I should be, especially before the big show, but I doubt I'm on the roster. I live/farm up by Genoa, just south of LaCrosse and go to school (graduating this spring) at UW-Platteville.

Thanks for the info, that is quite interesting!!! I have found no evidence this truck was ever a different color, inside or out. I'm going to check the door locks and things... Am I correct that the truck is a 1969?

Loadstar, thanks for the reply. From the back of the frame to the cab of my truck is 12 feet, so I was looking at a 12 foot box. But I suppose a longer box doesn't have to be so high for the same capacity and will be a little bit easier on the front axle since there will be a better balance of grain on the rear axle. I'm probably going to look for a 14 then, the 12 I was looking at isn't all that pretty either, but it does have the hoist I may still consider. Going to an auction for a bad engined IH truck, I'll see what I get out of that deal.

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Tim, The front cylinder on the passenger side is number 2. And the tank is most likely a vacuum reservoir for the brakes.

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Was trying to find out if your antifreze was low. Maybe your motor has a water leek?

If so could be a head gasket. Thats why i asked.

You should be able to see if the motor is a 392 motor, Is it a 2 or 4 barrle Holly carb?

Is the manifold big & sits high?

The numbers on the motor will have to be checked to see what motor it is, They will not say the motor size they are coded.

Check to see if the spark plugs are in there tight or arethey loose.

Post what you find out.

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