willpullem Posted July 6, 2006 Share Posted July 6, 2006 This is just a question for curiosity'sake. I have heard of guys "turning up" these ole IHs. I was just wondering is it all done in the injector pump. Or is the timing involved as well. I know some of you guys pull so I know there are some experts out there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wanna1066 Posted July 6, 2006 Share Posted July 6, 2006 i'd like to know this too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IH RD Posted July 6, 2006 Share Posted July 6, 2006 Hello, It depends on what your turning up!? Different pumps have different adjustments for increasing fuel delivery. IH RD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willpullem Posted July 6, 2006 Author Share Posted July 6, 2006 I'm not looking for specifics. I am assuming by your response that it is all achieved through increasing fuel delivery.. I had wondered if there was a restriction on the part of the motor. Everyone knows when you want to get more out of a Ford you change the heads first. Does this make any sense or am I still too generalized. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronson806 Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 It probably depends on what model tractor or what kind of fuel pump you've got too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wanna1066 Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 1066. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aar Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 what kind of power do you want to achieve with your 1066????????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toyboy Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 I am curious on this also... Lets say on one 1066 160hp, another 180hp, next 200, and finally 230hp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aar Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 first 10 turn the pump up 2nd 10 turn pump up a little more 3rd 10 put on 3lm 4th 10 put on 3lm with truck injectors. really there are any of a number of ways to increase hp in an ih engine. but imho putting a 3lm turbo on is the singlebest thing you can do to a 400 series engine it will give great performance from stock up to 300+ horsepower. of course the higher end requires a few other subltle changes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_Farmer Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 The first part is easy,,,,under the square cover is the torque arm adj. the other hp #'s require spare sums of cash if you want any reliable resaults. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMiller Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 Just so you know to turn up\down the timing you rotate the pump, the the pump is the timing. For pulling you need a professional built pulling pump-lines-injectors and a 3LM built to match, add some fire rings and head studs and you can be at 500+hp easy.... If you just want to blow some smoke on your farm tractor, turn the fuel screw all the way and enjoy, just add a exhaust guage so you don't melt it down being dumb, oh and it is going to suck a lot more fuel... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aar Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 fuel's cheap right bawlb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srt35 Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 On a 1486 pulling in a field stock class. Fresh rebuilt stock inj. pump maxed out and 3lm-466 turbo. How much timing should I run. I beleive stock is 22 or 24 deg. advance. Also someone mentioned truck injectors what year and model do I need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killer Red Mater Posted July 8, 2006 Share Posted July 8, 2006 Stock on a 1066 is 18 dgrees static on the flywheel. In a stock class like you are talking about I would leave it at 18 degrees. It is very easy and simple to get 300 plus HP and it is still use it (with sensability) 3LM-466 charger = best bang for your buck. I would put this one on even if a TO4 went bad and I was just replacing it. $425.00 average price .93 lines bigger = easier on the pump and delivers more fuel these are about $225.00 to$ 250.00 injectors $ 350.00 for the ones I use And last but not least a 13mm pump. These can be had for as little as $1500.00 and as much as $2500.00 If you have a VERY good core that way they dont need to repair allot of stuff and just put the 13mm head in your pump makes it cheaper. So we have turbo $425.00 lines $250.00 injectors $350.00 pump $2000.00 (just in case yours needs work) total $3025.00 And these parts setup right WILL make power!!! But I still wouldnt go past 20 degrees on the flywheel and would adjust the fuel bacwards from full fuel till it burned about 1200 on the pyro. This pump has the capability to overfuel when left wide open and " puts the fire out" will burn about 700 or so (that is what it did on mine) so I started taking away fuel till it burned right all the while it starts making more power. If you need more help ask and I will see what I can do for you Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p8ntball329 Posted July 8, 2006 Share Posted July 8, 2006 If you just want to blow some smoke on your farm tractor, turn the fuel screw all the way and enjoy, You'd know all about that wouldn't you? LOL You should post the video of you blowing smoke on the 560. LOL Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srt35 Posted July 8, 2006 Share Posted July 8, 2006 Stock on a 1066 is 18 dgrees static on the flywheel. In a stock class like you are talking about I would leave it at 18 degrees.It is very easy and simple to get 300 plus HP and it is still use it (with sensability) 3LM-466 charger = best bang for your buck. I would put this one on even if a TO4 went bad and I was just replacing it. $425.00 average price .93 lines bigger = easier on the pump and delivers more fuel these are about $225.00 to$ 250.00 injectors $ 350.00 for the ones I use And last but not least a 13mm pump. These can be had for as little as $1500.00 and as much as $2500.00 If you have a VERY good core that way they dont need to repair allot of stuff and just put the 13mm head in your pump makes it cheaper. So we have turbo $425.00 lines $250.00 injectors $350.00 pump $2000.00 (just in case yours needs work) total $3025.00 And these parts setup right WILL make power!!! But I still wouldnt go past 20 degrees on the flywheel and would adjust the fuel bacwards from full fuel till it burned about 1200 on the pyro. This pump has the capability to overfuel when left wide open and " puts the fire out" will burn about 700 or so (that is what it did on mine) so I started taking away fuel till it burned right all the while it starts making more power. If you need more help ask and I will see what I can do for you Keith What did the bigger lines and injecters come on? Are they Navistar, IH, or aftermarket? You were right on the timing 18 deg. is stock, and I had been running 22deg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killer Red Mater Posted July 8, 2006 Share Posted July 8, 2006 Well ........ none of the "good" parts come stock. The lines can be bought aftermarket from allot of places including me if needed. The injectors I use are not a "stock " option either. I see where someone said put truck injectors in ...................... you could .............. but I wouldnt waste my money or time doing it. I sold another guy on here a set of these injectors . They are kinda like the 3LM-466.................. biggest bang for your buck. Most shops will charge you 50.00 per injector to use your cores and put new tips on............... these are out right. You could put on the charger,lines and injectors .................... set you 10mm wide open fuel.............. take out the droop screw. Leave the timing at 18 degrees. This will run pretty well. I say all this because I get the feeling you would like to get 300-500 HP nearly free....................... not happenin. I have been doing this along time.................... I know what works for the least amount of money. As far as research goes........................ IH offered 2 different line sizes. .62 ........ these were on naturally aspirated motors. .73 were an all turbo charged . These are still not big enough to really get the # up. But they will work if you stay with the 10mm pump. The injectors................. there are different tip # for tractors vrs trucks but they are still too little. I learned this stuff the hard (and sometimes expensive)way. Do what you want ,but I know what works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srt35 Posted July 9, 2006 Share Posted July 9, 2006 Keith, Thanks for the info you helped alot. I am getting a 3lm-466, and checking on a 13mm head for my pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aar Posted July 9, 2006 Share Posted July 9, 2006 truck injectors aren't to small for the 230 hp mentioned earlier in this post of which I replied to. I have 2 prostock engines running in excess of 2000 hp I too have been down the road of horsepower=$ spent. But I will give you credit, you have a good running tractor and are probably more knowledgeable in the 3 to 5 hundred hp range than I Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Neubauer Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 How much performance difference is there between the 130 pump and a P pump? At what hp level does a guy need to start worrying about the drive train and what is required to make the drive train hold up to 500-600 hp? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killer Red Mater Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 That is the million dollar question. There are those that say you need to change things pretty much right away, and there are those that are still running the stock stuff and doing well. There is a MAJOR difference in a 13mm vrs a P pump. A good 13mm puts out about 280cc of fuel and a P can be upwards of 1100cc. But its not about how much it puts out but how quick it can deliver the amount you need. Two things I think should be done are needling the rear end and putting a really good (and safe ) clutch in it. I have seen guys with allot of money in motors neglect to put a good clutch in it and BANG tractor is cut in half ,hopefully noone gets hurt. Darren Sutton from Gretna,Ne did it and so did the BEE BEE town outlaw from Iowa. Funny thing is other than the time it takes needling the rear is very cheap (all things considered) I would recommend it for all farm tractors like the 66 and 86 series. Also there are places to get 2 disk steel clutches that wont break the bank. Add with that the "good " TA and you would probably never have one of these tractors apart again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dumbfarmer Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 sorry to interupt, but what does "needling" the rearend mean? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aar Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 Killler's right particularly with the clutch and needled rear. The clutches cost a little money but safety is much more important if you're gonna make some serious power (300+). Needled rears allow you to drive the tractor straight down the track and allow a much smoother and efficient flow of power to your final drives( more power to the ground). A couple other mod's for the higher hp #'s could include big input shafts, and countershaft braces as these to shafts tend to flex and snap under heavy loading. The list is nearly endless as to what you can do, just decide what hp goal you have in mind and ask around. Their are lots of people including Killer and myself who enjoy helping another red one to get out on the track. JUST DON'T SKIMP ON SAFETY!!! At a local pull last night a guy's tractor got away from him and he laid it over on the track after hitting a guard rail and light pole. Roll cage and harness saved his life. needling means putting needle bearings between the spider gears and the cross for the simple set up. it prevents the gears from galding to the cross, which will cause a tractor to pull to one side badly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willpullem Posted July 10, 2006 Author Share Posted July 10, 2006 I knew some of you guys would know. I appreciate the time you took to reply. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killer Red Mater Posted July 11, 2006 Share Posted July 11, 2006 Locally I buy the needle bearings for about $42.00 a bag and it takes about 1 and a 1/2 bags. The cross is the "cut " ($80.00) in a crank grinder so the needles have a nice surface to ride on. These fit under the spider gears to prevent galling................... which is usually what happened when when someones "horse" took out the rearend. The other thing I do is then EDM ($50.00) a 1/4 hole all the way through the left bull pinion and have the end tapped for a high speed swivel ,then plumb it to the hydralic system and you now have a lube oil pressurized system .This is in mine and I would put it on a farm tractor in a minute!!! It really changes how it drives. So for about $200.00 and the other gaskets and time it is VERY worth while. I really doubt you would ever have trouble with it again. Play nice with your toys LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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