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12 Row Cyclo 900


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New farmer that has not planted before. Just bought and hauled home a 12 row Cyclo 900. As it was being loaded a heard a pop and one of the springs broke so need to replace that.

I plan to go through grease everything, check hoses (already found two to replace), check tires, hook up the monitor and marker box, change oil and filter for pto pump.

 

Anything else I should check? I have corn drums and will be buying bean drums.

 

I did not get a manual with the planter. As I look for, I am seeing multiple options. Do you need a 800/900 operators manual? 

 

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Make sure the marker box works!!!! The planter won't lower if the marker box isn't powered up and working.

Check the brush in the drum and the cut off wheels outside the drum. Make sure door seals are good. Watch the guage wheel rockers infront of the row unit while planting. If worn enough they'll go over center and plant as deep as it'll go. I have a love hate with my 12 row,  love the machine, not a fan of the air. Can't afford a 1200 machine. 

 

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20 minutes ago, brahamfireman said:

Make sure the marker box works!!!! The planter won't lower if the marker box isn't powered up and working.

Check the brush in the drum and the cut off wheels outside the drum. Make sure door seals are good. Watch the guage wheel rockers infront of the row unit while planting. If worn enough they'll go over center and plant as deep as it'll go. I have a love hate with my 12 row,  love the machine, not a fan of the air. Can't afford a 1200 machine. 

 

20230510_183002.jpg

Strip till? Dad had a first year 800 12r 30. End transport. The biggest problem he had was clutches. Had ro put one in it every year. 2-300 acres

Is this for next year cuz it's June 10th lol

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If you have never planted before, you are going to learn a lot. There are videos on YouTube showing how to adjust the early riser row units. I like the cyclo planters and have had very good luck with them. Opener discs should be close to 14" and not wobble from bad bearings. You need good firming points (frogs), and your closing discs should be close to 7".  Just look it over and fix what it needs. I changed my eight row to use cylinder stops for height, I don't need any electric power to raise or lower the planter, and plumbed the markers to be on their own hydraulic outlet with me selecting what marker should be raised or lowered without raising the planter. I have a lot of irregular shaped fields and terraces and need to raise and then lower a marker to miss obstructions without raising and then lowering the planter. 

 

Pull the seed drums and use spray graphite where the seal rides against the sead module. Turn on pump and make sure air blows out of all rows, hopefully your air pressure gauges work in both hoppers. You will need to know what population to set the transmissions at, so you will need to know what combinations of sprockets to use. With the planter raised you should be able to turn the seed drums by hand if everything is turning free, and seed spout is set to not overfill the seed drums. I turn on the pto, then exit the tractor and turn the drums by hand to fill the seed pockets in the drums and set my air pressure. I go behind the planter and feel underneath each row to make sure I can feel blowing air from each row, if so, I go plant.

 

Make sure you set the depth correctly and never back up with the planter down, it will pack dirt into the seed boot, this something that planters do not like. If your soil is high clay and almost too wet to plant, don't just drop the planter and then go forwards, you could pack dirt into the seed boot, I am slightly moving forward as I drop the planter. I feel the cyclo planters are one of the easiest and simplest planters to use, but all planters need to be prepped and adjusted right to plant correctly. Happy planting!!

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57 minutes ago, Dave Feldman said:

Yes, I hired the planting for the first year.

I usually end up buying a piece of equipment half through the time I should’ve been using it.  I guess I should do some more proactive planning?? But, it gives a guy time to go through it for the next year. 
I can try it out, but feel like I don’t have to depend on it right away. 
That looks like a pretty fun planting rig!  
And I’m still planting beans, and it’s June 11th today!

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2 hours ago, 1566Hog said:

I usually end up buying a piece of equipment half through the time I should’ve been using it.  I guess I should do some more proactive planning?? But, it gives a guy time to go through it for the next year. 
I can try it out, but feel like I don’t have to depend on it right away. 
That looks like a pretty fun planting rig!  
And I’m still planting beans, and it’s June 11th today!

That will be a cool rig once he gets it going. Cab or not.   

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Remember that the population chart shows a maximum ground speed you can run to not overspeed

the drums. Before you buy soybean drums you need to check the chart to see if you want 144 or 240 hole drums. 

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From the parts side which I was on look at openers. 14" is new but you can run them down to 13-1/2. Firming points, retainer box and the rubber flap that keeps the seed from bouncing. The drum wheel bearing. The seed cutoff brush assembly. Make sure the drum tires are soft. If the planter sat outside inspect the hopper top for cracks. And of course those cursed air hoses. I still wake up in a sweat remembering when a customer would bring in a 12 row worth of hoses to make. The ones closest to the hopper are pre-cut soft hoses. The rest came off a stiff 50' roll. 

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11 hours ago, 1566Hog said:

I usually end up buying a piece of equipment half through the time I should’ve been using it.  I guess I should do some more proactive planning?? But, it gives a guy time to go through it for the next year. 
I can try it out, but feel like I don’t have to depend on it right away. 
That looks like a pretty fun planting rig!  
And I’m still planting beans, and it’s June 11th today!

 

10 hours ago, Dirt_Floor_Poor said:

Still planters in fields here, including ours. 

Just finished my beans about 3 hours ago. 

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