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1066 top link dissasembly and repair questions


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I have a few category 3 IH top links (1066/1086 style) that need repaired.  I have bent and broken ends.

How do you take the ends out of the center section?

There is a roll pin in there and I expect them to be really stuck in there after 50 years of rust and grime...

Any other general thoughts?

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14 minutes ago, HydroTek said:

There is a hole in the center section that aligns with the roll pin in the threaded part

Two holes. Roll pins on both ends and if it's locked tight a hot wrench with rosebud attachment. Did one a year ago. It was locked solid. Heat and cool cycles along with compressed air, a good solid bench vice, a pipe wrench with leverage extension and a little patience. Threaded back and forth while using compressed air to dispatch the years of accumulated dirt.

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Address it same as any other stuck bolt.

Best place to work on it is on the tractor. If you've got a quick hitch, install it, otherwise use the least obtrusive 3pt implement you have. The quick hitch and the tractor will hold the ends while you work the middle back and forth.

If you want to take it right out you'll either have to drive the roll pins out, or use a rotary burr to grind them back so they're out of the way. Roll pin punches will help prevent "mushrooming."

To get it moving before you die of old age, heat with the oxy-acetylene torch. 

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heat it red hot and then touch the threads with a candle. Old crayons will also work but smoke a little more. The wax will flow down the threads. Done this many times.

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15 minutes ago, cedar farm said:

heat it red hot and then touch the threads with a candle. Old crayons will also work but smoke a little more. The wax will flow down the threads. Done this many times.

Interesting tactic

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On 9/15/2023 at 7:24 AM, hillman said:

I didn't think they made standard bore Fire craters?

 

9 hours ago, Drysleeves said:

Interesting tactic

beeswax does the trick.

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There are cool products like Kroil and PB blaster, and some guys still use wax? I have tried it once or twice, with absolutely no luck. The red hot at that point is what’s doing the work, -not anything that you spray on it, imo 

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1 hour ago, stronger800 said:

There are cool products like Kroil and PB blaster, and some guys still use wax? I have tried it once or twice, with absolutely no luck. The red hot at that point is what’s doing the work, -not anything that you spray on it, imo 

Use wax. It wont burn off like pen oil and will follow the 

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I had a 4455 Deerey Deere third link that was locked solid on one side from the lack of use malady. Detached the reasonably serviceable side of the equation and uprighted the remaining parts in a big time vice on a big time workbench. It refused to move with a 2 foot pipe wrench and a three foot pipe over the handle regardless of direction, so I filled the open side with Liquid Wrench and walked away for the night. The next morning the cement was soiled with the contents and the turnbuckle center section turned freely by hand.

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When I worked at a tractor and combine and baler salvage yard, we would have a few guys call for top links. Almost all were “stuck” when we found them. Pipe wrenches and leverage extenders (pipes) would rarely do the trick. When we would be to the point of about to give up, and tell the customer it was a no-go, we would spray it down with Petron Plus, and would go home for the evening. Never failed, in the morning, it would be loose and turn nicely. Don’t ask me how. I would never believe it unless I saw it with my own eyes. Petron Plus was over $30 per aerosol can last I checked.  I keep a can of it only for emergency situations in my shop.  The torch with a rosebud will make quick work of a stuck toplink too though. 

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