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Reds were making me pull my hair out today.


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To start, I'm Running a 5088 and 900 cyclo planter with an Ag Leader Integra controlling a hydraulic drive.

3 days into 2024 planting and I'm noticing the hydraulic drive loosing speed,  then speeding way up, before settling back in to normal. I'm  starting to think there's something binding, nope all turns really easy. 1 more round same thing, now I'm starting to think it's tractor related but how can everything else be working great, I was 1 round away from swapping the drive to a different remote, but.

It's warm, no AC so fans on high. While watching the drive RPM on the screen I happened to hear the cab fan slow down, while also seeing drive RPM drop, fan speeds back up, drive WAY over compensates. 

Bingo, light bulb went off. The Alternator was pushing 15 volts, and when it drops suddenly to 13.5V the PWM valve on drive goes haywire. Fan on low, the voltage was all over, so poor man's solution was fan on purge,  lights on in the day to hold voltage steady.

Looks like tomorrow's project is a new used 3 wire 10SI I've got laying around and ditch the factory single wire. I will say though,  9000+ hours on what appears to be the original alternator. I'll possibly look into rebuilding it.

 

20240512_145008.jpg

20220519_192327.jpg

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My 5288 and 5488 both have 15 SI Delco alternators on them.  110 amp rating oem but probably putting out 120 or better. Came new that way on ,some tractors, or I've seen some with brushless alternators. 

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7 minutes ago, FarmerFixEmUp said:

Mu 5288 and 5488 both have 15 SI Delco alternators on them.  110 amp rating oem but probably putting out 120 or better. Came new that way on ,some tractors, or I've seen some with brushless alternators. 

That’s what I put on my 5088 when mine started causing issues 

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Check the voltage under load on the #2 alternator terminal.  That is the sense wire that the alternator uses to determine the required voltage output on the battery terminal. The voltage should be equal to the maximum voltage regulator setting. The other end of the wire is connected to the battery connection at the starter solenoid. It in in the same wire terminal end as the alternator output wire. Those two wires run parallel with no connectors in them. Make sure the connections are in good condition. 

You can use a jumper wire from the alternator battery terminal to the #2 terminal to make things work if there is problems with the sense wire. The only issue with that is the alternator will be limited to the voltage regulator maximum rather than maintaining that voltage at the starter.

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I have wished many times that all we had was ground drive mechanical meters. I do like the Ag Leader electric clutches. They rarely cause problems. I do not like the one Precision Planting system we have. It is older and nothing but trouble now. The Ag Leader InCommand 1200 is much better on the other planter. I don’t feel like you can run a large planter here and do a good job without gps control. Good thing it was just a voltage problem on yours. 

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2 hours ago, Owen Aaland said:

Check the voltage under load on the #2 alternator terminal.  That is the sense wire that the alternator uses to determine the required voltage output on the battery terminal. The voltage should be equal to the maximum voltage regulator setting. The other end of the wire is connected to the battery connection at the starter solenoid. It in in the same wire terminal end as the alternator output wire. Those two wires run parallel with no connectors in them. Make sure the connections are in good condition. 

You can use a jumper wire from the alternator battery terminal to the #2 terminal to make things work if there is problems with the sense wire. The only issue with that is the alternator will be limited to the voltage regulator maximum rather than maintaining that voltage at the starter.

Factory 1 wire alternator.....

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