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Farmall M bolster rebuild


Dell

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I need to rebuild the steering bolster on my m . And wanted to know which way the bushing come out and the best wat to remove them.  any tips or trick? The bolster will be on the tractor. Any help. 

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I've never had one apart but I would guess that if there is a bushing top and bottom they both go out their own end .... I need to do my Ohio 4fiddy bad 

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If you can find an exploded parts digram that’s usually a pretty good indicator of order and direction. 

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Just found a video on you tube where they change them on a H. my parts manual looks almost the same as a H. you tube is hit and miss info.

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Do you have a narrow front or wide?  If your steering is really sloppy, start with the universal joint on the steering shaft, is it good? Then where to front and rear  shafts come together is the clamp bolt tight and the half moon key not worn out. The gear box, is the worm and sector gear tight. If the sector gear is a whole gear it can be turned 180 degrees. Some only have a half gear. Good bearing on the end of worm gear shaft?? If narrow front and new bushings and still wobbles in road gear try lowering air pressure in one front tire. 

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Bottom bushing comes out the bottom. No way to drive it. Peeled them out with a bushing splitter chisel. Top bushing goes either way. Use a driver from the top and it removes the seal at the same time. Bolster shaft is usually worn in the top bushing area. I have built a few of those up with bronze and turned them back. Worm shaft bushing works the same as the top bushing. If you drive from the front. Seal comes with. When you have it rebushed. Have the half gear or a worn worm and to much slop in the middle. Weld just the two center teeth. Then use a cutoff wheel to dress them till they just don't bind. Shakes will be gone and play in rest of teeth will not be noticed when turning. 

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I made up a "puller" with threaded rod and a round plate to pull the lower bushing and then the seal up into place. 

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20 minutes ago, Farmall Doctor said:

I made up a "puller" with threaded rod and a round plate to pull the lower bushing and then the seal up into place. 

You need to get the grease zerk hole in line.

Or just put it in any old way and then take out the zerk, run a drill bit down and open up the hole.

Sneaky trick #10.

I see Steiner makes a kit #IHS3920 for $225.00. That may not be to bad.

It sounds like they are the only ones with that thrust bearing that the full weight of the tractor runs on.

I guarantee your old one is very bad if the overhaul has not been done, probably ever.

Steiner says they have these made especially for them and are the only ones that have them.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

i got the kit from Steiners and made a puller for the upper bushing and seal. im thinking the lower bolster shaft might be worn. what is serviceable limit for the lower bushing area of the shaft. I should have it apart this week

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Just last week I pulled my 1952 Farmall M in the shop, I had three jobs on the list, leaking head gasket, narrow front end loose, and service up M&W live power clutch. Well, the heads off 8 hours on that, took the cover plate off the top of the front carrier and working the steering you could see the crown gear move back & forth loose!? So, I made a decision to pull it all apart for repair. The job is best done with the whole front off the tractor where you can position all your work.  With the front tires of the floor one inch, I took off the top crown nut, and with a hard wood block & a eight-pound hammer hitting the shaft down and no movement!? tried heat and no movement!!?? I put a 1/2 inch drift between the bolster nut and front carrier that made a push wedge effect and worked. I really thought I would have to drill and tap the crown gear for a pull plate!?  My next move is unbolt the bolster from the shaft and pull it out and do some measurements.

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If I was to do it again, I would also pull the bolster out.

It is a pain working on that main bushing from up and underneath.

Get the bolster on a table so you can easily work on it.

We work smarter now, not harder.

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  • 2 weeks later...

 Got some work done today. Those bushing lost the battle and came out. That one oil seal was a pain. The shaft was the issue I bought all the bushings and seal so they are going in. Off to find a good used bolster shaft

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How nasty was the thrust bearing?

It may be stuck on the bolster shaft yet.

The only good one I have found was new and in the box.

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The thrust bearing wasn’t that bad. The shaft splines are shot.   The bolster shaft has some wear too.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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