Jump to content

806 Engine Timing


Recommended Posts

So my 806 has had an injection pump failure and now the D361 is out of time with the injection pump, how do I find TDC, the only marking on the flywheel is an arrow( upside down V with a - next to it) does that indicate TDC?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, I will look in that area again tomorrow. The flywheel doesn't look to be scoured or anything, there is some surface rust though, I will try to clean it up tomorrow. Thanks Snoshoe.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You also need to be sure you're on the compression stroke when the timing marks come around - both intake and exhaust valves closed on cylinder-1.  Otherwise, your pump could/will be 180° out of time.  I'd personally pop the valve cover or something before I'd pull the injector if it's not already out.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the old pump is still on there , and has not broken the shaft

just remove the timing window from the pump and line up the marks
this will get you on the correct piston stroke

should also find the 8 degree mark on the flywheel like that

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Look at the pump driveshaft when it’s installed and the dot will be at 10 o’clock before the pump goes on . Take some emery paper and clean the flywheel and the marks are on there . I clean them and use a paint pen to mark out the numbers and timing marks , then spray it with clear paint 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Unfortunately the pump driveshaft is broke, the woodruff  key also sheared... I lined up the marks in the timing window before removing, also checked again that they were aligned before reinstalling the pump. The tractor started, I backed it out of my shop to let it warm up a bit. After about ten min I decided to drive it around in the yard, as soon as I opened the throttle it revved up and shut down immediately. I removed the pump and found the drive shaft to be broken as well as the key. Pump is going back to the Injection pump guy tomorrow. Thanks for your help folks.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  I should add that the reason for removing the pump was because it was leaking fuel into the crankcase. The seals were replaced as well as the drive shaft carrier bearing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, 806Jordy said:

  I should add that the reason for removing the pump was because it was leaking fuel into the crankcase. The seals were replaced as well as the drive shaft carrier bearing.

If that's all they did, they didn't fix your problem. Your problem is the flex ring on governor weight retainer has deteriorated and bits of it have plugged the orifice that regulates internal pump pressure from transfer pump. If pressure is too high, the cup seals can't hold it back. There is an updated retainer that is solid. Tractor could have died because if internal pressure is too high,pump plungers will be stuck in delivery position, instead of out toward cam ring to begin next fuel delivery.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, 806Jordy said:

Unfortunately the pump driveshaft is broke, the woodruff  key also sheared... I lined up the marks in the timing window before removing, also checked again that they were aligned before reinstalling the pump. The tractor started, I backed it out of my shop to let it warm up a bit. After about ten min I decided to drive it around in the yard, as soon as I opened the throttle it revved up and shut down immediately. I removed the pump and found the drive shaft to be broken as well as the key. Pump is going back to the Injection pump guy tomorrow. Thanks for your help folks.

 

The hydraulic head locked and twisted the drive shaft off.

Major failure.

This could be pump trouble in itself and also can be gear damage which drives it.

If gear damage, you can install a new pump and lock that one up too.

Be very, very careful!

I have seen the timing gears broken and worn and caused a pump to seize.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The head locking up would suggest dirty fuel -- or excessive end thrust on the drive shaft

You will be removing the valve cover to figure which piston stroke the engine is on

Check the spring plunger and wear pad on the front cover of the pump drive for proper operation
since you will be replacing the shaft -- problems here should be remedied by that

Check your filter setup and the hose from the filters to the pump -- any junk getting thru will damage the new pump head

Are the filter seal plates and spring present in your filter housings ?
I have seem them missing more too many times over the years
-- you will get unfiltered fuel to the pump

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, so I went back to the flywheel and with a friend holding the timing gear in place turned the flywheel very slowly and using a mag light was able to find the 50 mark, using a dremel with a brush cleaned the surface exposing adjacent marks. Then continued turning  the  wheel and brushing the surface until all the marks were exposed. The engine is now at 8 deg, the key way on the timing gear is in the 2 o'clock position.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is assumed that you had all your gears - crank/cam/idler/injection - indexed properly at assembly?

The "dot" @DirtBoyz07 refers to is stamped into the pump-end of the drive shaft.  There is a mating dot punched into the pumps driven hub.  With the flywheel pointer at 8°, and the pump and shaft mated "dot-to-dot", you should be able to rotate the loosely mounted pump slightly (one way or the other) to make the two marks on the rings in the timing window align exactly - then tighten the three mounting bolts.

If all that's "true", you should be back in time (someone jump in here if my memory is pooched and I'm steerin' him wrong....)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes I made sure the dots were indexed as you say when I reinstalled the pump, the damage was done when I used the three bolts on the adapter plate to pull in the adapter plate and shaft the last 1/16 or so into the timing gear pushing the driveshaft in the bearing back the the same amount. Amateur Mistake. The pump guy said if I buy the parts he will fix with no labor charge.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, DT361 said:

Sorry - I misunderstood; I thought you had your pump back and were looking for clarification to install it at this time.

Mark

No apology necessary Mark, I thank you for your responses.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, HydroTek said:

@806Jordy That pump shaft housing should fit easily into the engine -- and have some wiggle

Most of those engine that I have worked on used a button on the gear cover to control shaft end play

You for sure do not want end pressure on the injection pump

Yes there is a spring loaded button on the gear cover and it is free and works, I will be much more diligent when reinstalling the pump when I get it back. Thanks for your responses Hydro.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was thinking a 361 had a couple seals back to back on the shaft that sticks out of the engine that the pump slips over when you bolt it on the engine. and there should be a couple bearings in there too. Could be that they are wore causing some slack. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Carrier bearing has just been replaced along with 2 new seals. With the help of a good mechanic friend we reinstalled the pump yesterday, bled the lines and the tractor started right up. We let it run and warm up while checking for leaks. After letting it warm up good  I took it for a spin, I went up a long steep hill in 4 Hi DD with no problem. Tractor runs sweet and smooth, I'm a happy Boy!😀😀

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Unfortunately, your content contains terms that we do not allow. Please edit your content to remove the highlighted words below.
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...