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D-360 Low oil pressure, at wits end


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To try and answer multiple questions at once and for clarification purpose. This engine was first apart sping '19 for the major overhaul. Then, apart a second time this January-February 2024. 

The oil cooler was replaced but if there was a leak there we would have fluids mixing and other issues.

Had to replace the injection pump bc it crapped out when tried the first start.

We installed 12 piston jets, i believe reliance brand. The block was pre drilled.

We got the tractor home. Dropped the pan, checked the pickup tube gasket, went ahead and put a new one in, no change.

Tried new oil pump from dealer. I believe was NOS. It had an IH logo on it and was quite dusty.

We tried a new regulator valve, no change.

Capped the turbo, no change.

Fast forward to 2024. We tore it down again.

New rod and main bearings. I have 100% faith in my main and rod bearing clearances. I plastigauged them. They're on the tight end.

The camshaft miked out in spec at Berry cam service. New cam bearings, maxx-force brand this time instead of reliance.

The head gasket from the overhaul kit in college was an oem style reliance brand. This seconds head gasket is a truck style/400 series style OEM with the wierd have moon hole on one end, rear I think. 

Brand new rocker levers.

We took the regulator out of a perfectly good dt414. No change. 

I dropped the pan, Again, and put in a different suction tube with another correct gasket. No change.

New filter bypass spring and spool

We decided a filter base gasket and filter bypass valve should have no impact on pressure.

Capped off the oil feed to the injection pump and oiled it from a preluber and ran the engine hot. No change.

We have ruled out every possibility. The only thing left is a cracked block or an oil pump size/wear issue.

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14 minutes ago, iowaboy1965 said:

I dont recall, but did you check the cam bearing clearance?

I didn't. We know the cam is in spec. We've been through two different brands of bearings. That's fault on my end.

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I have a few other stupid thoughts. This is a different crankshaft. I wouldn't think it had extra drillings/passages for some dumb reason.

Wrist pins shouldn't be an issue.

I also was curious what this passage is for behind the filter base.

20240320_183629.jpg

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The one thing you have not said you have rechecked is those cooling jets. I have no idea how much oil they pass however you have added them and they are an unknown it appears to me. Not saying that is the issue, just a possibility. 

The other thing you have never said if you did or did not do is check the suction tube and casting as outlined in the service manual. Doubt that is the issue where you have changed tubes just something I am throwing out for you to consider. 

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2 hours ago, IHC_1470 said:

The one thing you have not said you have rechecked is those cooling jets. I have no idea how much oil they pass however you have added them and they are an unknown it appears to me. Not saying that is the issue, just a possibility. 

The other thing you have never said if you did or did not do is check the suction tube and casting as outlined in the service manual. Doubt that is the issue where you have changed tubes just something I am throwing out for you to consider. 

Well with my luck I probably got 2 bad tubes. I called reliance but the tech department doesn't have access to the blueprint. he says they sell a boat load every year. "never had an issue"

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Is there any way to hook up a remote pump to the engine and see how much pressure you can get?   With the pan off.

Like maybe an old barrel hand pump with a hose, pump it up and see if the pressure goes up or you just get a lot of oil falling out of the bottom of the engine

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A friend had a pressure oil tank setup.

You filled it with oil and installed the valve on top.

The valve was hooked up to an air compressor. The valve was opened and pressured up to 100+ psi. The Valve was shut and air disconnected. 

A Hose was connected from tank to the oil gallery. The tank was inverted so oil came out instead of air. The valve was opened and the engine was pressurized.

He used this to pre lube engines before starting.

In your case I would have the pan off and watch for something wrong while a helper pressurized the engine.  You could do this several times if needed.

If I remember correctly his was made from an old LPG tank (5 gallon?) and the necessary valve and fittings.

Best of luck!

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Not familiar with this engine, but just a dumb question. Usually, low pressure goes back to cam bearings. Your clearance is good, but I assume that the bearings have a lubrication hole in them. What if the hole does not align with the one in the block? Not sure how circuit works but would give you high pressure in some places but not enough volume in others.

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Remove the oil cooler and fab 2 plates to fit over the ports on the block -- 1/4 thick or better

Add a threaded hole in each plate for air / oil connection

Test the front port first to verify the , front cover and oil pump

Then pressure test the rear port (oil pan off would be best)
Use less than 75 psi , the regulator should stay closed
Look for the leaks
catch the oil in a clean container and use it over again

Not sure what the hole you pointed to in the block goes to
I am sure I have looked before , but been too long to remember

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1 hour ago, acem said:

A friend had a pressure oil tank setup.

You filled it with oil and installed the valve on top.

The valve was hooked up to an air compressor. The valve was opened and pressured up to 100+ psi. The Valve was shut and air disconnected. 

A Hose was connected from tank to the oil gallery. The tank was inverted so oil came out instead of air. The valve was opened and the engine was pressurized.

He used this to pre lube engines before starting.

In your case I would have the pan off and watch for something wrong while a helper pressurized the engine.  You could do this several times if needed.

If I remember correctly his was made from an old LPG tank (5 gallon?) and the necessary valve and fittings.

Best of luck!

I made one out of a harbor freight sandblaster. I hooked it up before I tore the engine apart and before I put the oil pan on.

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1 hour ago, Duntongw said:

Not familiar with this engine, but just a dumb question. Usually, low pressure goes back to cam bearings. Your clearance is good, but I assume that the bearings have a lubrication hole in them. What if the hole does not align with the one in the block? Not sure how circuit works but would give you high pressure in some places but not enough volume in others.

I marked the holes and used a mirror to verify after install

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29 minutes ago, HydroTek said:

Remove the oil cooler and fab 2 plates to fit over the ports on the block -- 1/4 thick or better

Add a threaded hole in each plate for air / oil connection

Test the front port first to verify the , front cover and oil pump

Then pressure test the rear port (oil pan off would be best)
Use less than 75 psi , the regulator should stay closed
Look for the leaks
catch the oil in a clean container and use it over again

Not sure what the hole you pointed to in the block goes to
I am sure I have looked before , but been too long to remember

I used the port on the LH side that feeds the injection pump

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13 hours ago, bwop2017 said:

I used the port on the LH side that feeds the injection pump

Yeah , so you have mentioned
that port restricts flow into the main galley too much
Make the plates for the oil cooler and test there on both ports

After all , we are looking for a leak that an 18 GPM pump can't seem to fill
that small hose on your leak tool will not do the job of supplying enough flow

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16 hours ago, bwop2017 said:

Well with my luck I probably got 2 bad tubes. I called reliance but the tech department doesn't have access to the blueprint. he says they sell a boat load every year. "never had an issue"

typical reliance answer. its never their fault.

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31 minutes ago, HydroTek said:

Yeah , so you have mentioned
that port restricts flow into the main galley too much
Make the plates for the oil cooler and test there on both ports

After all , we are looking for a leak that an 18 GPM pump can't seem to fill
that small hose on your leak tool will not do the job of supplying enough flow

How big of a hose?

My sandblaster will only take 1/4" pipe fittings without some major modification. 

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Shoot the oil from your pressure tank into a bucket
observe the flow
Compare that to the total leaks draining out of the oil pan when you test

Use some all thread in a couple of places to space the oil pan down several inches , to catch the oil
just a giant funnel that fits the leak area
you can look to see which area the leak is coming from thru the gap
Then remove the oil pan to investigate better

And ...do the plates , they are easy to make and will prove the pump side gaskets

Drop the suction tube if you want to check the port shape of the tube and housing
the later housings had a larger port , and used a different gasket
( no need to remove the front pulley to get the suction tube off )

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I was able to look at a 312 block that my cousin has. The port behind the filter base is part of the main gallery. It's only on 300 series engines. what its for, idk.20240320_183629.thumb.jpg.6e518f3e32ed4673b890ee7cd76eb530.jpg

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25 minutes ago, HydroTek said:

The oil filter base gasket could be flipped either way -- wondering if that hole is the problem ?

Seems like there were 2 different gaskets in the kits as well -- have to look that one up

The only gasket you can get anymore looks like this. Which doesn't cover the passage.

I will say, there's an extra drilling behind the filter baseand the regulator valve bore is different, maybe there more differences than we think.

I just find it hard to believe that there's some other leak. It was fine for 35 years. He re-ringed it and left a rod loose which would cause low oil pressure. I went through it a 2nd time and know that the bearings aren't an issue. Jets are going to take more volume.

Screenshot_20240325_104723_Google.jpg

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38 minutes ago, HydroTek said:

That passage seems to be a dead end
or a drain for the area around the center bolts
so we don't get a leak to the outside

I wonder if the base was tapped there for a different engine application

I'm just trying to point out that maybe there are more differences than we realize. 

The oil cooler held the highest pressure compared to the injection pump port and rear of the block. it makes sense if the mains are using too much oil and dumping out of the jets that you would have low pressure as you go higher.

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The other thought. 

Throw the big pump on and see how it acts. if it loses pressure just like this then we have a problem. I've had the pan off of this engine like 5 time since college and haven't found anything and have ruled enough stuff out. 

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