Jump to content

820 and 1020 headers


acem

Recommended Posts

I'm considering buying a smaller flex head to use on my 1460 (early mechanical hydraulics controls). I currently have a 30ft 1020 that I can use on my 1480 but it's really too big for my 1460 and hard to get around. I also have a bish adapter and JD  20ft 220 that's in bad shape (you could throw a cat through the hole in the floor).

Opinions on the 820 vs 1020?

I would like to use automatic header control if possible. My combine has the cable control.

I've been using my 810 Ridgid header this fall and it's a pain not having automatic header control. I could build a new finger bar, get new cables and make it work again...

I'm just thinking and looking for opinions/experiences.

Thx-Ace 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don’t know of any 820 heads left in my neighborhood. The ones I remember seeing around seemed to me like they left the field kind of ragged. Maybe it was the operators or worn out equipment. I remember my dad telling me the first time he saw a 200 series Deere head, he couldn’t believe the job it did. It was several years before he ever had his own flex head. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

24 minutes ago, acem said:

Thanks for the info.

Never seen a SCH cutter bar.

Are they that much better?

I’ve known some people that swear by them, but I’ve never really felt the need to upgrade what I’ve had. I had a Deere 930F that had the SCH knife drive conversion, but still used the OEM sickle. I ended up converting it back because I had so many problems. The way it mounted just never worked quite right. The major selling point way back when was the 4” stroke of the SCH knife drive versus the 3” stroke of most knife drives back then. Deere licensed the SCH knife drive design for hydraflex platforms. I have used them a lot and I don’t know that it’s that much better, but many will disagree with me on that. It probably has more capacity, but I felt like I couldn’t utilize it in my conditions. I don’t know if newer Deere heads still use it. The drive may be tougher, but comes with a jaw dropping replacement price when it fails on those heads. I never used just the SCH sickle. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1020 for the skids alone. Those large 820 skids held a lot of weight in dirt. I sold lots of AHHC kits back in the day to use a 1020 on and older 1400 series. A least in our area most 820's were 15' A 20' 820 if around is probably worn out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The SCH thing just doesn't make sense to me. As time goes by and the guards wear, cutting clearance is going to increase on the top-side. Hence less good cutting. If all your sections cut on the bottom, wear is much less of a problem.

Went to an auction some years back, there was a gleaner of some sort, and a lot of other Orange stuff there. We parked in a field that had been beans. I remember thinking, "this is the worst job of cutting beans I've ever seen"!! Looked at the grain head, apparently it had SCH cutter in it. Didn't know at the time that that was a thing. Thought someone just put every other section on upside down for some reason.

I guess this is one of those things. You don't have to have a superior product, you just have to convince people you do!

I may be all wet, might be the greatest cutter bar ever but I'm not going to spend the money to find out. With what I know about cutting clearance from my time in the toolroom, it just doesn't look good to me.

Edit; I should add that I went from an 820 to a 1020 and glad I did. Snouts alone are a big improvement. As I write this the right snout on my head is crippled and will need some repair work before going in the beans next fall.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have run a stock 820...an 820 modified by John Young...and a 1020.

The stock 820 was not much of a head,  didn't feed well, and had a ragged cut.

The Young 820 worked nice,  fed well, and cut closer than any head I've seen ..................  but picked up every rock that was in the field.

The 1020 was my favorite, fed nicely, and did a good job of cutting.

IF....you have no rocks I'd recommend a Young 820,  if you have rocks a1020

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the info.

What exactly should I be looking for on a used flex head?

Where are the important wear points?

I haven't run a flex head much. They don't work well in rice.

No rocks (except a few that come in with chicken litter) but plenty of mud. My 30ft 1020 does pretty good in wet conditions on flat planted beans. When planted on beds I tend to push even dry dirt on the top of the beds unless I cut at an angle. I probably need to make adjustments.

I'm probably going to get a 22 ft head but am flexible, if I get one. The 30 is just too big for the 1460. I'm afraid I will tweak or twist the feeder. The feeder was upgraded to 1660 (stronger sides) by the previous owner because it was bent...

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Perhaps I'm an outlier but I had very good luck with the SCH cutting system when the original Tiger Jaw style cutterbar wore out, which didn't take long. I could cut standing beans at 5 mph much of the time and if they were leaning into the cutting direction 6.5 was possible. Didn't last long as those systems wore out fast and I remember shimming the guards with washers to close the gaps and get by for the remainder of the last season.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, acem said:

Thanks for all the info.

What exactly should I be looking for on a used flex head?

Where are the important wear points?

I haven't run a flex head much. They don't work well in rice.

No rocks (except a few that come in with chicken litter) but plenty of mud. My 30ft 1020 does pretty good in wet conditions on flat planted beans. When planted on beds I tend to push even dry dirt on the top of the beds unless I cut at an angle. I probably need to make adjustments.

I'm probably going to get a 22 ft head but am flexible, if I get one. The 30 is just too big for the 1460. I'm afraid I will tweak or twist the feeder. The feeder was upgraded to 1660 (stronger sides) by the previous owner because it was bent...

 

  I know that this is an IH site but knowing that you are budget minded I would look for a JD 200 or 900 series flex head as long as you have the adapter.  Around here a 1020 header will be almost double the money for not as good as condition.  I have a 915 flex and as long as you maintain it the head does a nice job in soybeans.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I sold SCH, Crary and the 3" conversion kits CIH offered. I always told the customer WHATEVER they bought to replace the 1.5" quickcut would be an improvement. Another important part when converting from the 1.5" cut was to change the drive pulley.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, 766 Man said:

  I know that this is an IH site but knowing that you are budget minded I would look for a JD 200 or 900 series flex head as long as you have the adapter.  Around here a 1020 header will be almost double the money for not as good as condition.  I have a 915 flex and as long as you maintain it the head does a nice job in soybeans.  

I have an old worn out JD 20ft flex (220?) off a 6620 I bought and parted out. You can throw a cat through the rusted out floor but I guess it could be rebuilt...

The JD heads will probably be cheaper than a 1020 in Arkansas.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, cedar farm said:

I sold SCH, Crary and the 3" conversion kits CIH offered. I always told the customer WHATEVER they bought to replace the 1.5" quickcut would be an improvement. Another important part when converting from the 1.5" cut was to change the drive pulley.

Never been around a 1.5" cutter bar.

Always ran the std 3"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, acem said:

Never been around a 1.5" cutter bar.

Always ran the std 3"

It seems like the 1.5" cutter bar was a White thing because they heavily advertised it on their headers and called it "Kwik-cut" back in the 80s.  Some aftermarket companies offered them too and for a short time it was the fad around here to add them to headers.  We never did.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, acem said:

I have an old worn out JD 20ft flex (220?) off a 6620 I bought and parted out. You can throw a cat through the rusted out floor but I guess it could be rebuilt...

The JD heads will probably be cheaper than a 1020 in Arkansas.

  I've known guys who have rebuilt the JD heads including floors.  An involved job but one that is definitely doable.  My 915 is getting tired and had my eye on another that had a good price but did not have the money in hand at the time.  The replacement head would have been cheaper given the cost to rebuild mine.  I want to upgrade in terms of a combine but prices have been too high to this point in time.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We have a 13 1/2 ' 820 with the standard 3" IH cutterbar and a 15' 820 with the 3" SCH cutterbar.  We no till and I can't see a big advantage for the SCH.  One piece of advice I learned the hard way:  don't  confuse the bolts between them.  Slightly different diameter and you will constantly have the sections work loose and fall off or become broken!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got a call from a friend who retired from farming. He has a 25 ft 1020 I'm going to look at. I'm doubtful about the condition as he's hard on equipment but it will be reasonable price.

25 ft is bigger than I want but it's better than 30 ft on the 1460!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Unfortunately, your content contains terms that we do not allow. Please edit your content to remove the highlighted words below.
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...