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My new to me puller M


bitty

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IMG_20231118_204242231.thumb.jpg.b8b16bf7cf31d16c458307be2853715a.jpg

I see the tag was bumped off the M as the rivet heads are still there . The engine serial number is this picture , not sure what it exactly is , I maybe have to scrape the paint off to see it better. I think I remember the 39 H I had before had the number stamped on the top of the front end of the right frame rail . I'm just curious what year it is.. 

IMG_20231118_204658913.jpg

IMG_20231118_204643586.jpg

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Provided the engine block number and others wasn't grounded off and engine restamped to pull in a certain class with later block the engine is a 51 model. Check date code on top of center housing and others on rear castings to see if they fall into time frame. Can't make out one number in picture of serial. If engine is original to chassis, chassis number was probably exactly 11000 higher than engine number. Block probably has a W for date code if correct serial. Could have a U but think that engine number has a slim chance of a U.

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8 hours ago, F-301066460puller said:

I saw that on farmall fanatic youboob... got any specs on it?

No specks on it. Guy passed away 12 years ago and who knows what I'm not sure. It's got good bones . 9 bolt hubs, tins are exceptionally straight, 16.9 151 Firestone tires although that's going to take some serious power to spin. Kil switch, wheelie bars shortened hitch with turnbuckles for height adjustment 

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2 hours ago, stronger800 said:

i like it.

 

school buses and old trucks are common up here. I’d love to find a nice M…..and do a transplant. Other than it’s about impossible to find one that has straight tin  and rims and tires that look like they’d hold air.  

 

 

 

 

Where are you located? Im in SE WI and h's and some m's are all that's on Craigslist or Marketplace.  Usually average condition decent tin, paint, tires. Ranging from 1200 to 2500. Of course you got some that were pulled out of the weeds, or a dupont overall that are worth gold but for the most part can find a decent one.

H's and M's are still seen and used in my area on smaller farms, moving wagons, or pto usage. So it's pretty easy to come across one.

With that said 2 years ago I was looking for a John Deere A, B or G I couldn't find a decent one to save my life only what you described.

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IMG_20231119_160144044.thumb.jpg.619e01c3107d51869db84e07c0493dc9.jpgIMG_20231119_160637695.thumb.jpg.365adae9fb761c269358e55cbc8424e3.jpgIMG_20231119_155744930.thumb.jpg.47042ea4cce79b7c9dc5a474fe9d219d.jpgIMG_20231119_155749487.thumb.jpg.467ae1b607207bc9a4a41aca6c855cb7.jpgIMG_20231119_155837278.thumb.jpg.d50c536503ae1a8433e2e4526ad41214.jpgIMG_20231119_155850805.thumb.jpg.7b7859aadab917d541adc2f9bfd7f767.jpgIMG_20231119_155805425.thumb.jpg.d28373765552b693a3ac2fea8f0191e9.jpgIMG_20231119_155836797.thumb.jpg.ce6cac141daac056818847924e0d3e01.jpg

18 hours ago, bitty said:

IMG_20231118_204242231.thumb.jpg.b8b16bf7cf31d16c458307be2853715a.jpg

I see the tag was bumped off the M as the rivet heads are still there . The engine serial number is this picture , not sure what it exactly is , I maybe have to scrape the paint off to see it better. I think I remember the 39 H I had before had the number stamped on the top of the front end of the right frame rail . I'm just curious what year it is.. 

IMG_20231118_204658913.jpg

IMG_20231118_204643586.jpg

 

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Don't know what I did wrong there but I couldn't add any text in that last post ... Tried to scrape off the engine serial number to make it a little more readable there's a picture of a couple other casting numbers but the paint is thick enough I didn't see the one for the deck cover. Whoever build it even put a little air filter on the engine breather. The PTO doesn't look quite as long as the one that I remember on my 50 M? But I'm sure it doesn't look as short as one on the early M ? Maybe I'm just not used to looking at M PTO's anymore since I got rid of my m a couple years back and only have 400-450 mainly anymore 

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1 hour ago, bitty said:

Don't know what I did wrong there but I couldn't add any text in that last post ... Tried to scrape off the engine serial number to make it a little more readable there's a picture of a couple other casting numbers but the paint is thick enough I didn't see the one for the deck cover. Whoever build it even put a little air filter on the engine breather. The PTO doesn't look quite as long as the one that I remember on my 50 M? But I'm sure it doesn't look as short as one on the early M ? Maybe I'm just not used to looking at M PTO's anymore since I got rid of my m a couple years back and only have 400-450 mainly anymore 

Looks like the engine and chassis match up. PTO is normal. Nice piece to play with or use with a few changes. 

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33 minutes ago, Dzldenny said:

Someone spent some time setting that one up. Looks like a fun one. They'd never let you pull with that hitch around here though. Has to be hooked to the belly via drawbar. Open horseshoe would not be allowed.

What does it weigh?

I wondered about the hitch also. It's really short.

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1 hour ago, Dzldenny said:

I know the rules are different for each class and vary in different areas. I was simply stating we would not be able to use it as is in this area or at least not that I'm aware of. Anyone ever see it hook?

I will measure it when I can and weigh it. It's 18" back from centerline here at most every place I know. I'd love to have some information on what I got here but it's at least 12+ years since it was pulled as he passed away that long ago 

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Center of axle to hitch pulling surface is 19 1/2" and it's adjusted around 18" high currently. 16.9-38 are 6 ply on 16" rims . Line up stud in one hole both hubs so I assume it was set up to swap tires for different classes . I have electric for spark when switch is on but starter button is bad as I don't get hot on second side when pushing the button. Carburetor is back together and didn't look bad at all . I'll try to start it with the gas in it before swapping out for fresh gas 

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2 minutes ago, bitty said:

Center of axle to hitch pulling surface is 19 1/2" and it's adjusted around 18" high currently. 16.9-38 are 6 ply on 16" rims . Line up stud in one hole both hubs so I assume it was set up to swap tires for different classes . I have electric for spark when switch is on but starter button is bad as I don't get hot on second side when pushing the button. Carburetor is back together and didn't look bad at all . I'll try to start it with the gas in it before swapping out for fresh gas 

I wish you were closer I would take those 16.9's off your hands lol

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I'm hoping it will turn these ok ... Not sure what classes are available for that size around here . (I'm only going to be pulling semi local)

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Cranks but no spark. It has juice down to the points but not sparking at the plugs . I put a new set of 3116 I had on as 386 that were in are dirty looking. 

On the tach it is backlit whenever the battery is hooked up so I have to change some wires. What does the plug (green arrow) and the cylinder part to the right accomplish? 

IMG_20231121_210039089~2.jpg

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Probably had wet points last night. Fired up this morning. Then drained the gas out and put new gas in and ran ok for a bit. I need to get tank flushed out and then I think it might be ok . 

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