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2001 loader onto a 560D


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Wanting another option to load out big round hay bales.

 

Couple of loaders for sale on marketplace place that had been on 656s. But I don't think either had the right mounts for 656 or 560 from what I could see looking at old topics here.

 

One had a bale stabber on it already but I felt like he was at the top end or above what I could resell it for if it didn't work out like I hoped. He was suppose to do some measuring on a 656 and a 560 and get back to me. He didn't and then it was sold. The other was half the price but again  incorrect mounts and no stabber. It sold before the other one.

 

Then I found this one that appears to have the right mounts for 460-560. Some clean up of previously modified mounts and assembly required. 

 

It was only 3 hours away and in another state. 🙄  But the price was right even adding in fuel to make the trip. So I took a road trip on a nice day and drug it home.

First the 560 has 2 bolts broke off where the mounts bolt to the front bolster. Forgot to take pics but started working on that last nite. Some heat and wd40 was tried and then some left hand drill bits. Was hoping to grab and spin broken stubs out. Didn't happen. But I did get thru. 1 I didn't get centered as good as I would have liked. Ran out of time so more wd40 to soak. At least it can get to the back side now.

Didn't have much time tonight but got the front brackets cleaned up some. Couple holes were partially welded into and some extra iron needed to come off from the pics I was seeing. Got that done. Back to the broken bolts when I get time again In a few days.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally got back to it today. Used a die grinder with a burr to get the hole back more centered and then drilled a size at a time till I got to tap drill size. Got the front mounts mocked up right at dark. Been dreading those darn bolts, glad to have that part done. 

Next I need to finish the plates for the axle mount end of the sub frame and find some bolts. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Not much to report. Got the plates made for the rear axle mounting of the sub frame. Got cold and the darn tractor won't start. Few other things came up around the place but hope to get back to it soon. Going to install a block heater, 2nd 12v batt and cables and probably rewire the glow plugs. Suppose to be warm next few days. We will see. 

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Have not got time to do much more with this. Was sick for 3 or 4 days so about all I got done was sneak out when I was feeling better and put cables and a 2nd 12 volt battery in. It now starts at colder temps than I would have even tried before. Still not a great cold starter but getting better. At least it will start below 50 now! Have a new frost plug heater I'm going to put in as well for those times I know it needs to start.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks. Mostly healthy again. Just not much time after I get home before dark right now. Hope to do some work on either or both the 560 and 400 next week. Have a numerous other things on my list too so we will see. Hope to at least get frost plug heater installed in the 560.

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  • 1 month later...

Finally getting  back to this at least a little bit. Mounted the tractor sub frame today.  The front cross piece is bent and at some point I will have to straighten it. Could only get 3 out of the 4 bolts in before it got too late and I gave up for today. 

Forgot to take some close ups of trying to get the front bolted together.

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A little more progress tonight. Did some straightening in the press. Not perfect but much better. Had to adjust the pieces along the frame back a bit too as they were bottoming out and not letting the cross brace sit where it needed to get the bottom bolts on.

Left the bolts back at the axle sorta loose till I see how everything lines up putting the loader arms back on.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Progress has been sporadic. Did get back to it today. Got the arms mounted and the pins in the arms and cylinders. But no retainer pins to hold the bigger puns in yet.

 

The hoses to the cylinders were not capped nor was the line going down the arm. Took hoses off and squirted cleaner down them and blew out as best i could. Had to get a few parts from town to adapt a chunk of hose to plug into tractor.

Got it all plumbed up and it goes up an down!.

Tried switching the hyd valve from dual action to single. But it acts like it's in dual action all the time. And in the single acting postion it sounds like its putting hyd system under load. I know it's been talked about here before so I will try to search it later. Unless somebody cares to tell me what might be going on and a fix.

Next to figure out the dump cyl. Fittings been broke off and open for a long time looks like. May end up needing new cylinders if these can't be saved. 

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Had this afternoon off so I tinkered with this set up a bit more.

Today's focus was on the hyd valves of the tractor. The sectors for the dual or single acting functions were not up to snuff. The right one was froze and the other I had worked loose several years ago but was still stiff and the roll pin for the detent was broken off either by me at that time or maybe before that. 

Some wd40 and then some oil on both as I worked them back and forth got them loosened up pretty well. I took the lower dash panel off yesterday so I could see and get to them better. 

The left one I ended up taking the end cap off as I couldn't really get to the roll pin. You can see there was some sticking out the bottom so I elected to drive it up and see if there was enough to work in the detent. There was, for now anyway. Both detents were full of dirt and junk so I blew them out first. 

Of course there is a gasket under that cap i had to scrape off and replace. I had some gasket material around so I made one. Took a while but still quicker than running 15 miles and back to the closest dealer. Not sure they would have one on hand anyway?  Lot of you guys have been in these I'm sure but I hadn't. Not to tuff but saw something new. Wish I had taken a pic with the cap off but didn't think of it at the time. Got it back together and function correctly for the single, double functions.  The valve won't unlatch tho when the loader reaches full up so I should have taken the valve spool apart and cleaned up the little screen in there or maybe a bad o ring on the unlatch part will make it act like that too? Anyway I will get to take it apart again sometime to try and correct that. 

I found out the 560 will still fit in the garage with the loader on and the door will shut. After taking off the muffler and top part of the air cleaner assembly anyway.

Next I pulled it out and started taking the dump cylinders off. The pins are rusted in place pretty good. Got out the torch and did some heating. 1 pin out and another part way before it got too late. I may end up cutting that one. Not sure these cylinders are usable but I did see some movement as I was messing with them so we will see. The fittings are broke off and they appear to have had water in them. 

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The valve unlatching is the garter spring on the opposite end of the valve that you were working on. You have to have a tapered cone to run the spring up on with the valve in the right position. This cone is hollow on the large end. Under the cap with four bolts

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Ty snoshoe I was getting ready to clarify in case I said the wrong thing. I probably did. The handle won't go back to neutral on its own when the loader cylinders are up as far as they can go. Had that trouble some folding  the wheel rake too.

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After several days of heating and beating on the cylinder pins for the bucket I got them all out tonight. Had to go with Mr hacksaw and Mr air hammer to get the last few chunks out tonight. Only smashed my self with the hammer twice last nite. 🙄 once in the knee and once in the hand. No injurys tonight! 

Who ever converted it to hyd dump made the pin holes just barely bigger than the pins so with rusty pins it was not easy to get things moving. I think I will drill or ream them out a bit before going back together. Surprisingly the cylinders do move some and 1 will go full stroke tho it is sticky in the middle. I hope I can hone them a bit and rebuild them.

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Got the bucket cylinders tore apart tonight. Now to find some kits, clean them up and put them back together.

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Tried honing out the worst of the 2 cylinder barrels tonight. Pretty pitted. Would probably work for a while, no more than what I will be doing with it, but then again if I do try to handle big bales with this loader it may cause some problems with drifting. Wish I could get a new cylinder barrel for a price that would make it worth putting back together, but I doubt that will be the case. Still mulling it over. Need to see if the other cylinder is save able like I think it is.

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I did find a place last nite with honed Id tubes. Need to measure my wall thickness and double check my length,  but I came up with $86 plus tax and shipping for 2 x 26 tube with .250 wall thickness. Sounds a lil thick. I will check the place you suggest as well. Thanks.

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The bucket cylinders? They're nothing special, just standard 2x24 cylinders.

$86 for two honed tubes sounds like a BARGAIN to me. That's not even 1 hour of labor at a machine shop. If you want to see what kind of work goes into making a hydraulic cylinder tube watch Cutting Edge Engineering Austraila on youtube, or some older Abom79 videos when he was still working for Motion Industries. 

"Surplus Hydraulics store" is probably "Surplus Center." You can probably get an entire replacement cylinder from them, but it won't be cheap.

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That was $86 for 1 tube. .250 wall which will probably be too thick. I did find .187 wall thickness for $72 for 1 tube on the same site. My wall thickness is .125 or a bit more with rust. The od. Of the .187 tube is 2.375. Not sure that will fit between the tie rods that hold it all together. Need to check that. I may end up buying replacement cylinders.  

I didn't find a surplus hyd store but did find surplus center in neb somewhere. 

I know they are nothing special but I don't want to end up with 2 slightly in some way that matters different cylinders somehow.  Stroke, different rod size whatever. Probably over thinking. 

I agree the price for the tubing is doable. I am aware of how time consuming machining can be. We used to machine hyd cylinder shafts for aluminum injection molding machines at work. Never made a barrel  honed to size but I can imagine. 

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Checking before work his morning and after taking a tape measure and then setting the barrel back on a cap with tie bolts still in, there should be room for either of the heavier wall thickness tubes to work. 

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