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1660 with 1020 AHHC Driving Me Crazy


7secondmalibu

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I had issues last year and completed the year without using AHHC.  I got it pretty much all figured out this year except for one problem.

When the header lowers, it's going to low.  I adjust it up with the knob in the cab to the height I want and everything looks good.  When I raise the head and lower it again, it doesn't go down.  If I rotate the knob on the dash lower, then it will go down.  It's just to low again.  That means I have to rotate back to the height I want.   I just don't want to be raising and lowering that knob each time I raise the head. 

I tried rotating the potentiometer on the head and the head moves up and down fine with me rotating the potentiometer on the head.  I tried playing with the head potentiometer in different positions relative to the knob on the dash.  If I rotate the head potentiometer to where I want the height and lock it, I still have to play with the dash knob.  it's just all rotated slightly on the increments lines on the dash.  

Any suggestions?  It's driving me up a wall.

I spent the day getting all the springs adjusted properly and getting the levers to rest on the pads.  Everything appears perfect except it's for lowering the head.

 

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24 minutes ago, MoeSzyslak said:

Are you sure the cutter bar is floating properly and actually dropping back down all the way when the head is raised?

I have the springs set real good and everything moving free.  Pads are resting on tubes.  In the raised position, if I push down on the cutter bar it springs back up 1/4 to 1/2 inch along the entire cutter bar.  When I lower it all the way down and raise it, the cutter bar is back in it's normal resting spot.  (1/4-1/2" from bottoming out)  

When in auto head height is on,  at cutting height I can pick up either divider and the head goes up and back down when I let go. 

So everything seems so be working except when trying to lower. 

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Just now, HydroTek said:

Where are you running the knob in the cab ?

I mean in the middle or at one end of the travel or the other

It was at full up but was at my cut height.  I didn't want that.  I wanted it centered.  I started rotating to potentiometer on the head and right now the knob in the cab is about middle to slightly up to be at the cut height I want.  Pretty much centered.

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57 minutes ago, 7secondmalibu said:

It was at full up but was at my cut height.  I didn't want that.  I wanted it centered.  I started rotating to potentiometer on the head and right now the knob in the cab is about middle to slightly up to be at the cut height I want.  Pretty much centered.

May need to check the Ohms on those pots -- you may be near the end of travel if they have been moved

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12 minutes ago, axial_al said:

Did this head ever work right on the 1660?  If the head came from being used on a 21xx or 23xx series, the header potentiometers are different.  Good luck!

Agreed there were 3 pots. 1400, 1600 and 2100 series and up. Other than that, the 1020 op manual has the procedure for setting it up. 

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7 hours ago, axial_al said:

Did this head ever work right on the 1660?  If the head came from being used on a 21xx or 23xx series, the header potentiometers are different.  Good luck!

I did work right when we first bought it 6 years ago.  Last year it worked until we were almost finished with harvest.  Instead of messing with it, I just finished using manual.

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8 hours ago, Drysleeves said:

If memory serves the head needs to be at 10 degrees forward tilt. The head potentiometer also has a setting for rotational orientation but since I never had to mess with that I don't recall the specification. Been 10 years since my last 1020. Nice ones are good property.

I set it with the potentiometer arm about 10 degrees upward with the arm facing the front.  That's what the manual said to do.  Now where the pot was set, I rotated it a few times trying to find it's best location.  

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If you want to adjust your pot "right" ... you could backprobe pin B at the 3 pin plug (to frame ground) and adjust the pot to be close to 3V smashed on the ground.  It should then go up to ~5V when the header is raised.

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2 hours ago, Jeff-C-IL said:

If you want to adjust your pot "right" ... you could backprobe pin B at the 3 pin plug (to frame ground) and adjust the pot to be close to 3V smashed on the ground.  It should then go up to ~5V when the header is raised.

Thanks, that's easy enough to do.  Unfortunately I won't be able to get to it until tomorrow evening, but that is an easy task.

Place header in manual, lower it all the way down "smashed", VOM back probe into pin B and rotate potentiometer until it reads 3V then lock it down potentiometer.  Raise head up and again back probe pin B, it should be 5V. 

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7 hours ago, hippy5488 said:

if its still a cable operated ahhc head i would look at cable. they almost always got to where they didnt move freely in a few years. if cable is needed throw in trash can and put updated linkage kit on it

It's still cable operated.  The head never sits out in the rain so it should never rust.  But it's still a cable in a dirty dusty environment. 

But I will double check that it's not sticking.

Lower it in auto, get out and take a close look the the arm angle. raise it and try to lower again.  If it doesn't lower, get out and look at the arm angle again and make sure it's not the same as when it was lowered.

Thanks

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22 minutes ago, HydroTek said:

Held on with 2 bolts ?

you have pots on each end of the head , at the end snouts ?

That 1020 head had a few variations over the years

... and do you have tilt ?

The bracket the potentiometer is secured to is held on by two bolts.  There's a hole in the middle of that bracket the potentiometer sticks through.  Wish I had a photo to share to make it clear.

There is no tilt.  There is only one pot left hand side of the feeder house.

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There was a conversion kit from Case Product support at one time to eliminate the cable. The cable could be sticky and problematic. The kit used all rods. I sold a few when they came out. I would doubt they are available.  

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11 hours ago, cedar farm said:

There was a conversion kit from Case Product support at one time to eliminate the cable. The cable could be sticky and problematic. The kit used all rods. I sold a few when they came out. I would doubt they are available.  

still available put one on customers 1020 a few weeks ago. part no. 434092a4e have installed several over the years. hands down the best improvement for cutting on any 1020 even if cable is good. kit comes with locating tool so set fingers in correct location. i think that is the no. 1 problem with most heads that ahhc acts up on. without tool its a guess wether fingers and rod is set in the right operating range.

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2 hours ago, hippy5488 said:

still available put one on customers 1020 a few weeks ago. part no. 434092a4e have installed several over the years. hands down the best improvement for cutting on any 1020 even if cable is good. kit comes with locating tool so set fingers in correct location. i think that is the no. 1 problem with most heads that ahhc acts up on. without tool its a guess wether fingers and rod is set in the right operating range.

Thanks. I am going to order a kit while they are available. I see a 1660 also needs harness 87412210. I'm glad to see CNH still supports older stuff. 

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