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TD-6 TD-9


gxr2001

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Hi everyone, I’ve purchased a TD-6 with problem. I can’t shift gears while running. It will grind. I had to shut it off and select gear then start it up again.

I took the plate and I also released the engine clutch pressure plate counterclockwise until the dozer started slipping when under load. Just testing to see if it’s seized up. I tightened it and I am back where I started. Tested it under load and all and it’s holding.

I have 2 videos. Video 1 shows when transmission is in neutral and lever engaged then disengaged. shaft to transmission still spinning preventing me from shifting gears while running.

Video 2 shows when I started it while in gear and you see the shaft going towards transmission is not moving.. then I took it out of gear to neutral and everything is spinning again preventing me from shifting into any gears.

Does anyone have an idea? Is my engine clutch seized or not? To flywheel I mean? I have no experience with this at all. I tried searching to find out what’s wrong with no luck!!

I put the plates back on it and I just thought if I put a crowbar on the joint and try to spin it while transmission gear in neutral will it help that of course if it’s stuck?? Will the joint hold? Joint I mean the one between the transmission shaft and clutch engine shaft.

Please help. Thank you.

 

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It could have a transmission brake that is non functional it should be behind the main clutch in the cavity more towards the transmission 

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GXR2000, Get a zerk fitting into the end of your engine clutch shaft(13) the pilot bearing is a ball bearing it needs grease, it takes a lot of grease to reach the pilot bearing if the shaft is dry, it took over thirty pumps on the grease gun to reach the pilot bearing on a new shaft install. It looks like you are missing the engine clutch brake disc(9) it should be riveted to the engine clutch coupling (10). Adjust the clutch so that it takes 40 lbs of pull on the clutch lever. That looks like a 62 series TD6.

IH TD6 engine clutch parts.jpg

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I imagine it's pretty dry and gritty in where the zerk goes. Hit it with brake clean and clean it out good with a pic before putting in the zerk. If you have a grease gun that will allow you to pump some ATF or light oil in there first that might loosen it up enough to accept grease. Good luck.

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Thank you guys for your amazing responses. I will take the panels off again and put a zerk in the shaft and I will keep you folks posted. I still gotta figure out how to get in between the coupling from @louie figone #9 figure/picture to install the zerk without disassemble other things. Is it possible without removing anything else to install it you think? I will inject ATF fluid inside the shaft before installing the zerk... Thank you for the advice @Rawleigh99 and to everyone else who chimed in as well. 

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gxr2001

Yes you can put the zerk in as is, it is tight but it is the only way as you need to remove the zerk to pull the clutch, the engine clutch shaft will not move far enough back with the zerk fitting in place to remove the clutch. Be sure you use a zerk fitting that is extended with a 45 degree angle nipple.

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  • 2 weeks later...

My BTD6 had the same issue, sometimes usually after the first start. So I would have to stop the engine and restart with a gear selected, and the clutch lever in the release position then it was ok. 
i eventually cleaned out the grubby clutch and compartment using CRC brake clean on the released clutch, then regreased everything and it has not had a problem since. I figure it probably had some old oil/grease contamination causing the plate to stick.

This machine sat outside not being used for years, so there could have been anything that got in there I guess.

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