ChrisMo Posted August 23 Share Posted August 23 Hello all. I am about to replace the clutch on my 1066 and see there is a 6 puck or an 8 puck option. Is one better than the other? Tractor is used for tillage, planting, hay and some loader work. Looking for something that will have good holding power and smooth engagement. TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IHC_1470 Posted August 23 Share Posted August 23 I had a 8 puck in the 3388 I am going through. Am going back to the 6 puck. When the get slipped by the operator really makes no difference what one is in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CIHTECH Posted August 23 Share Posted August 23 Lot of clutch choices and lots of things to keep in mind. Stock HP or tickled a bit? Do you want a 18 spring pressure plate with no clutch booster? I wouldn't.... Make sure you check and replace IPTO shaft & bearing + reseal transmission input shaft. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisMo Posted August 23 Author Share Posted August 23 This tractor does have hydraulic assist so I was planning to go with the heavy spring pressure plate. I am not too worried about the ipto shaft as this tractor did not have a pto until about 200 hours ago when I put one in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel Doctor Posted August 23 Share Posted August 23 15 minutes ago, ChrisMo said: This tractor does have hydraulic assist so I was planning to go with the heavy spring pressure plate. I am not too worried about the ipto shaft as this tractor did not have a pto until about 200 hours ago when I put one in. Look the splines over in the pressure plate and the PTO shaft itself. You may be surprised at the rust and wear on that shaft. The new seal on the PTO shaft will be required. It is just to old not to get replaced. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisMo Posted September 1 Author Share Posted September 1 Got around to splitting the 1066 today and since everyone likes pictures: Found the throw-out bearing seized and slightly wore into the pressure plate fingers The pressure plate is cracked all the way through. Thoughts on the rear main? Ended up getting a six puck clutch and flywheel kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisMo Posted September 1 Author Share Posted September 1 I am debating if I should replace the rear main seal or not. I see there are two different styles: a teflon seal or a neoprene seal. The neoprene seal is about twice the price of the teflon seal. Is one better than the other? Also, is it possible to install the seal without the special tool? I have seen a post where someone used a flat plate drilled with the flywheel bolt pattern. Seems like it would work if you slowly tighten each bolt slightly to evenly press the seal in. Finally, is it possible to remove the rear main seal wear ring without removing the engine rear plate? TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HydroTek Posted September 1 Share Posted September 1 I just "always" put in the rear main -- but had the tools , so it was an easy job for the security of no leak Teflon seal -- and use a couple of sharp pry bars on that wear ring to walk it out or a small welding tip on an acetylene torch and heat the wear ring in one spot pry on it while still red The new seal should come with a plastic spacer to help push the seal to the correct depth on the wear ring the tool pushes the wear ring about 1/8" past the edge of the crankshaft -- or just past the bevel on the edge of the shaft A plate would be shy of that by only pushing flush , tho it still may be "good enough" you could have a machine shop turn the plate with a recess to fit over the crankshaft and push the wear ring on the the correct spot seal and wear ring go in as an assembly -- at the same time Liking the roller skate splitting stands -- those your design ? I had a set with a wide single wheel on each side , and chains to run to the front axle turn buckles on the chains for adjustment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisMo Posted September 1 Author Share Posted September 1 The splitting stand is something I put together. They seem to roll well and distribute the weight which helps since I am doing this in a gravel driveway (the cab is 1" too tall to fit in the shop). I put down two layers of plywood over the gravel so it would have something smooth to roll on. I will need to remove the left cab mount to pull the clutch cross shaft. For some reason this tractor had the sealed style throw-out bearing and holder. Anyone know the depth to install the ipto seals to or what page in the I&T manual I would find the specs? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HydroTek Posted September 1 Share Posted September 1 They both go in until they bottom Use a large washer or driver that fits the bore , so you don't roll the seal edge Remove the battery box and support the cab with a pole stand -- that mount will come out in one piece , just remove the nut in the cab and rotate the mount bracket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisMo Posted September 1 Author Share Posted September 1 When you say rotate the mount bracket are you removing 2 of the 3 bracket to transmission mounting bolts and rotating it on the third bolt? Also, is there a torque spec for the pressure plate to flywheel bolts? It took some digging in the manual to find the flywheel to crankshaft spec of 123 ft-lbs but I can't find any spec for the pressure plate bolts. The I&T manual just says to reverse removal steps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farmall1066 Posted September 1 Share Posted September 1 7 hours ago, ChrisMo said: When you say rotate the mount bracket are you removing 2 of the 3 bracket to transmission mounting bolts and rotating it on the third bolt? Also, is there a torque spec for the pressure plate to flywheel bolts? It took some digging in the manual to find the flywheel to crankshaft spec of 123 ft-lbs but I can't find any spec for the pressure plate bolts. The I&T manual just says to reverse removal steps. If they are 3/8 grade 5 bolts, 35 ft lbs is the go to torque spec I use Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stronger800 Posted September 1 Share Posted September 1 Am I shot here? We haven’t done one in a few years, but we have done several on our deluxe cab 66’s, always replace all that stuff, and I can’t remember ever unbolting the cab mount. Get back to the garage and I’ll have to go look at one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stronger800 Posted September 1 Share Posted September 1 You guys appear to be correct. Must be I just can’t remember it. Just did this one not three years ago Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HydroTek Posted September 1 Share Posted September 1 IT manual is better than nothing , but not by much Take the 3 bolts out of the mount -- after you support the cab drop and rotate the mount , it will fall out You can do it with the battery box in place , but will need to bend the part that the plastic cover fastens to have to pull the clutch shaft pretty far out to clear the transmission shaft -- so you can replace the seals Check the fit of the PTO drive bearing in the "nose" -- it wears in about the 2 o'clock position looking from the rear this allows the shaft to move sideways just enough to make the seal leak Brake clean the "nose" and bearing -- put the shaft in without the seal and mount in a vice check for side play at the 2 o'clock position -- seen the housing wear to the point it is obvious the bearing moves sideways Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoshoe Posted September 1 Share Posted September 1 Always used retaining compound on that bearing. Even with new housings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hippy5488 Posted September 1 Share Posted September 1 the seal in brg. retainer bottms out. the seal in ipto driveshaft goes .690 deep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HydroTek Posted September 1 Share Posted September 1 1 hour ago, snoshoe said: Always used retaining compound on that bearing. Even with new housings. I have used a center punch to "knurl" the worn area -- then used the green bearing retainer Ya do what you have to depending on parts stock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisMo Posted September 4 Author Share Posted September 4 Got the ipto housing removed today. Does the ipto shaft press into the housing or is there a snap ring that needs to be removed to remove the ipto shaft from the housing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoshoe Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 13 minutes ago, ChrisMo said: Got the ipto housing removed today. Does the ipto shaft press into the housing or is there a snap ring that needs to be removed to remove the ipto shaft from the housing? Shaft and bearing should just bump out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisMo Posted September 4 Author Share Posted September 4 Thank you. Got the shaft out easily with a brass hammer. Couldn't find anything in the manual and I didn't want to tap on it or press on it with out knowing for sure. Looks like a new ipto shaft is in my future: Its kind of hard to see in the pics but the splines are worn about half way through. No point in having the worn splines on the shaft wear out the splines prematurely in the new pressure plate. Interestingly the splines on the TA input shaft look great. Either the splines are much softer on the ipto shaft or being connected directly to the engine with no springs to absorb the engine impulses must wear the ipto shaft splines much faster. I have no idea if this is the original ipto shaft or not but wouldn't surprise me if it is. The tractor has 5,000 hours on it. The prior owners did very little maintenance. No PTO on the tractor or 3 point for the first 4,800 hours. It did have a 6 puck friction disc and the pressure plate only had 12 springs even though it does have hydraulic assist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CIHTECH Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 Judging by the wear pattern that shaft has wore out (2) pressure plates. Check your crankshaft endplay if you know it hasn't had the second pressure plate. Not a bad idea to check it anyway. Also appears that you should check your flywheel "TIR" total indicator runout. The splines are wore in an arc. When you put it back together make sure you use a new IPTO bearing. There is a bit of controversy on which bearing to use, I like to use the heavy duty ball bearing ahead of the roller bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HydroTek Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 That roller bearing has too much end slack for my liking -- I usually opt for the ball bearing Check the condition of the "flat washer" on the bearing -- you can flip it around if it is worn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisMo Posted September 5 Author Share Posted September 5 The tractor currently has a roller bearing in it. Spins smoothly but does have a bit more play than I think it should have. HyCapaicity lists 3 bearings for the ipto: 830343 which is a 15 ball standard duty, 83034317 which is a heavy duty 17 ball version and finally HH70227 which is the heavy duty roller bearing and is rated for 3,800 lbs more force than the heavy duty ball bearing. I wouldn't think the additional end play of the roller bearing wouldn't be a problem since there should be no thrust load on the ipto drive shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisMo Posted September 5 Author Share Posted September 5 Also, what is the purpose of the "flat washer"? The parts book calls it a retainer but it's not attached to anything so how could it retain anything? In the parts book it looks like on the non-TA equipped tractors the "flat washer" has 3 holes in it and it is bolted to the bearing cage but on the TA equipped tractors it's smooth and just floats around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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