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1066 hi/low shifter roll pin


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Roll pin on the hi/low shifter wore out. I have tried calling the local dealer to find out if they have one in stock before I drive the twenty miles over there but I haven’t had much luck with the parts department. I’m not sure I got all of it out or if there’s still a broken piece in there. Anyone know the size or part number for the pin?

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13 minutes ago, rrr4quality said:

Forgot the pictures!E86FC142-EB59-453D-91F3-57983A11A0A0.thumb.jpeg.2e620e84221827581cc61e31d6a88861.jpegDD443766-FCD7-41F8-A1A6-CAF27AF2802F.thumb.jpeg.cd62f230995dbdadc020a7cafb7601ba.jpeg50279E19-FA62-45E4-9816-03CC0804272A.thumb.jpeg.93cbf6de31236f497b7aecf2c004e561.jpeg

Pretty sure it's just a 1/4" roll pin, roughly an inch long or so.  Our local Ace hardware store stocks a TON of fasteners, pins, keys chain links etc.  I picked up my last one there.  

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the factory one a double spiral pin? 

 

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It is 1/4x1-1/4. They were never roll pins. They were groove pins. Didn't work much better. What does work is make your own pins. Chuck 5/16 rod in lathe. Turn 1-1/2 inch down to 1/4 inch next to chuck. Outer end will be .008 larger from deflection. If you try to drive in with hammer and punch it will bend. Use an air hammer and it will slip right in. Only once did I have to make a larger pin. They do not shear or fall out. A drill press with cutter clamped in vise on table works if you don't have lathe.

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It's not a roll pin. A roll pin won't last two weeks.

Use a Tapered Groove pin.  I put in 1/4"x 1.5". That covers both lengths. 

If it doesn't seem to drive in tight, put a hose clamp around it to keep it in, if you don't want to replace worn parts.

 

Travis

 

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The original pins are solid, with one little extrusion on them of sorts that makes them tighter. If you put a bolt in it (because I bet you have bolts in your garage right now) just make sure it doesn’t hit anything when both levers are shifted through there travel. I know there’s one orientation where if you have 1/2” of bolt sticking out, it hits something, but if you cut the bolt short….perfect fit. I have used an allen had shoulder bolt, or a shear bolt, with a longer shank on it, so that the shank was against the shaft and collar, opposed to just a regular bolt where the threads would end up against the collar and could wear/create wear.

imo, that’s a legitimate fix, working with what you have on hand, quick like 

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They were 1/4 x 1-1/4 spiral roll pins in there originally -- the other pin you guys are talking about is called a "groove pin " , one of those would also be good

I drill the worn hole out , right on the tractor and use a 5/16 spiral pin to replace

You may need to remove some of the casting to get straight at the pin hole with a long drill bit

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I was towards the end of baling hay when it broke on me. Of course I didn’t know what happened. I was able to put it in reverse but that was it. Unfortunately I couldn’t finish baling in reverse so I had to either figure something out or switch to a different tractor. Thankfully I was able to remove the side covers and get it into low. 
I thought about running a drill bit through there to make sure everything was out of the hole. My only concern on going bigger would be weakening the shaft that goes down into the transmission. We use metal bonding adhesive at work all the time, If everything was clean I could pack the hole with some and then drive a new pin in. It should keep it from working back out.

Thanks again for the info!

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DAd's 1066 had the same issue - loader work!   We tried roll pins, groove pins, spiral pins, roll pins inside other roll pins (actually worked OK).    The drilled out 5/16" spiral pin fix finally lasted.

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16 hours ago, Cdfarabaugh said:

Pretty sure it's just a 1/4" roll pin, roughly an inch long or so.  Our local Ace hardware store stocks a TON of fasteners, pins, keys chain links etc.  I picked up my last one there.  

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the factory one a double spiral pin? 

 

1/4" X 2" heavy spirol pin.
CNH p/n 86644088  $3.85 at our store. 

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Cut off a grade 8 bolt the right length and run a clamp around it if neccesary probably last time it will need repaired

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35 minutes ago, ksfarmdude said:

Cut off a grade 8 bolt the right length and run a clamp around it if neccesary probably last time it will need repaired

Yes, cut a bolt or a piece of a hay rake tooth and fasten a  hose clamp around the shaft, works great. Make certain tightening screw of the hose clamp does not contact anything as shaft moves while shifting.

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Somebody wants a lifetime supply to share with friends, Mcmaster Carr sells heavy duty coiled spring pins that size in a pack of 25 for about $16. Step up to 1-3/8" length and they sell in packs of 10 for $6.50. Then you only have one lifetime's supply.

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39 minutes ago, Matt Kirsch said:

Somebody wants a lifetime supply to share with friends, Mcmaster Carr sells heavy duty coiled spring pins that size in a pack of 25 for about $16. Step up to 1-3/8" length and they sell in packs of 10 for $6.50. Then you only have one lifetime's supply.

Just buy the tapered groove pins from them....;-)

Travis

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14 minutes ago, 7and8and1456 said:

Picture of one of my tractors. Has two pins made of bolt or hay rake tooth  or maybe just an original pin that would not stay in place, now held in place with hose clamps.

 

Looks like one of the jobs I done -- hose clamp is on several of mine

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9 hours ago, 7and8and1456 said:

Picture of one of my tractors. Has two pins made of bolt or hay rake tooth  or maybe just an original pin that would not stay in place, now held in place with hose clamps.

001.JPG

 

8 hours ago, HydroTek said:

Looks like one of the jobs I done -- hose clamp is on several of mine

Been using hose clamps here since the 1970s, also on Cub Cadet Hydro drive plat to keep the hardened drive pin in place.

17 hours ago, Maynard said:

1/4" X 2" heavy spirol pin.
CNH p/n 86644088  $3.85 at our store. 

 

On 8/10/2023 at 7:53 PM, rrr4quality said:

Roll pin on the hi/low shifter wore out. I have tried calling the local dealer to find out if they have one in stock before I drive the twenty miles over there but I haven’t had much luck with the parts department. I’m not sure I got all of it out or if there’s still a broken piece in there. Anyone know the size or part number for the pin?

To clear up some confusion....
In parts on the 66 series a heavy spirol pin 1/4" X 2" p/n 6572196R1, subs to p/n  86624088
Whereas, in 56 series parts a 134/" X 1 1/4" groove pin p/n 443039, subs to, p/n 135-358
The High-Low shift plate in both is p/n 527900R1
See illustrations attached.
The Pins for the speed shift collar are, in sub order for 56 series, 135-76, subs to, 435-1820, subs to, 87852.
For the 66 series sub order is, 142521, subs to, 435-1820, subs to 87852. BTW, 142521 is called a hydraulic tube.

Clear as mud?

Range Hi-Low Shift Plate Parts Snip 856Capture.JPG

Range Hi-Low Shift Plate Parts Snip 1066 Capture.JPG

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