Baradium Posted August 8 Author Share Posted August 8 On 8/6/2023 at 3:46 PM, ray54 said: I would not recommend tying the 2 knifes together. I knew a custom hay guy that rebuild the drive to have them going in sink with each other instead of meeting in the middle. But still 2 knifes. I have never had any trouble just because of the knifes meeting in the middle. If they are supposed to come together I have something setup wrong, which is possible with the state of the machine when I got it. Does the bar really need to go over the other knife if the aren't passing eachother? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baradium Posted August 8 Author Share Posted August 8 On 8/6/2023 at 9:53 AM, ny bill o said: this is my 114. It was pretty well used up before I got it 30 years ago, and the conditioner rolls kept losing time, which made the conditioner plug (takes 14' of hay and puts it through a 4' conditioner). I finally figured out that the top chain tightener was missing, and the PO had just shortened the chain. After I built a new mount for the idler sprocket and got the right number of links in the top chain, the problem went away. Mower still gets used occasionally, like a new seeding that may have rocks that would beat up the disc mower. Problem is, the 114 can only windrow the hay, not lay it flat to dry. The number of links in the chains matter? One whole chain is missing so I have to put a new one on without a template. Guess I should order a manual Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ny bill o Posted August 8 Share Posted August 8 9 minutes ago, Baradium said: The number of links in the chains matter? One whole chain is missing so I have to put a new one on without a template. Guess I should order a manual the conditioner was In Time-Out of Time-In Time-Out etc. It would plug repeatedly, got so bad that I was carrying a huge pipe wrench on the tractor to turn the rolls backward. If I can remember, I will look up the number of links in the manual in the morning. IIRC, the bottom chain is direct drive. The top chain has the idler to take up the extra links. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray54 Posted August 8 Share Posted August 8 22 minutes ago, Baradium said: The number of links in the chains matter? One whole chain is missing so I have to put a new one on without a template. Guess I should order a manual No chain involved in my knife drive. A belt under cab to drive line along the back top of header to bar that wobbles to drive knife back and forth. But moving drive shaft and universal joint orientations I could change mine to run in sink rather than to cross. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bud guy Posted August 8 Share Posted August 8 1 hour ago, Baradium said: Helps if i give the correct serial number, 112069 1974. First year of the rotating screen models Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baradium Posted August 8 Author Share Posted August 8 3 hours ago, Big Bud guy said: 1974. First year of the rotating screen models It was one of three identical units brought to Alaska via dealer transfer by our local green dealer. This is one, another went to the matanuska Valley (Anchorage) and the third is about 60 miles south of me in a tree line as it was replaced with a newer one. Supposedly I can get parts off of that one, but it sounds like it's complete. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baradium Posted August 8 Author Share Posted August 8 4 hours ago, ray54 said: No chain involved in my knife drive. A belt under cab to drive line along the back top of header to bar that wobbles to drive knife back and forth. But moving drive shaft and universal joint orientations I could change mine to run in sink rather than to cross. So on this one there is the hydraulic motor that runs a set of gears and that runs two chains. One chain runs the lower roller and one runs the top. The top roller has a driveline out of each side that goes to a flywheel with a bent stub end that wobbles the shift that works the knife on each respective side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ny bill o Posted August 10 Share Posted August 10 I finally remembered to look in the owners manual for the number of chain links. The top chain is 54 pitches of #60 chain. Bottom is 74 of #60 chain. Without the correct number of links, the conditioner won't keep time and will plug. I forgot that the bottom chain goes thither and yon, my top chain was the one that was straight linked between the sprockets. Here is the tightener that I built to use up the required number of links on the top chain. There was nothing on the machine where the orange piece is welded on. Gusset welded on under the orange piece. The slotted piece is flat steel that met up with Mr. Torch. Idler sprocket is common NH issue for #60 chain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stronger800 Posted August 11 Share Posted August 11 I have never been around one of those machines, but that’s how the manual says the missing idler is supposed to be oriented? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ny bill o Posted August 12 Share Posted August 12 On 8/10/2023 at 11:13 PM, stronger800 said: I have never been around one of those machines, but that’s how the manual says the missing idler is supposed to be oriented? According to a picture in the manual, the factory idler was above the chain. different construction, though. The factory idler was pushing down on the chain rather than holding it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacka Posted August 12 Share Posted August 12 On 8/6/2023 at 4:53 PM, Dirt_Floor_Poor said: I never liked the power of the hydrostatic drive center pivot mowers that we had. They plug too easily I thought without even putting much of a load on the tractor. I just didn’t really understand why they weren’t shaft drive. I remember my dad complaining about this very issue to the salesman a long time ago. He said it was because of the long tongue yada, yada. Then we got a center pivot disc mower and it was shaft drive and was nearly impossible to plug. I remember running all kinds of gates and who knows what through the rolls on the discbine and never plugged them. The hydrostatic haybines would never do that. I have and several center pivot sycle machines.All Hesston heritage whether built under Hesston name, Gehl or CIH.Smallest 12' and largest 14' cut.All hyd driven and have zero complaints with the cutting or plugging. Sure they would plug once in awhile but usually because I was pushing it or bad blade and built up and plugged. Mowed very heavy hay,wet can be rough but that's with any syclebar machine.Simple,efficient. The only complaint I would have if you blew a suction or pressure drive hose you lost all 25 gallons of Hyd oil in seconds 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baradium Posted September 20 Author Share Posted September 20 Update for my mower, it's been raining for the last month and a half so our hay season is not going great there. The mower is all together but the hydraulic hoses were original and pretty bad looking (you could see the metal under the first layers of rubber in many places) so I've elected to replace all the drive hoses before operating it, now my problem is that the pressure hose from the pump to the tongue has a somewhat unusual fitting, the hydraulic shop says the original hose is a 4000 PSI hose but the only fitting they have on hand is a 2000 psi fitting so they are asking what operating pressure I actually need. Does anyone know what pressure these mowers run at with the pro hydraulic pumps? I am trying to Google but my Google fu is weak today. Edit to add that we are assuming it needs the 4000 psi unless I can find otherwise, I was hoping to try it out this week but they are trying to source the fitting still. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rainman Posted September 21 Share Posted September 21 http://farmmanualsfast.com list one for $20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ny bill o Posted September 24 Share Posted September 24 On 9/20/2023 at 1:23 PM, Baradium said: Update for my mower, it's been raining for the last month and a half so our hay season is not going great there. The mower is all together but the hydraulic hoses were original and pretty bad looking (you could see the metal under the first layers of rubber in many places) so I've elected to replace all the drive hoses before operating it, now my problem is that the pressure hose from the pump to the tongue has a somewhat unusual fitting, the hydraulic shop says the original hose is a 4000 PSI hose but the only fitting they have on hand is a 2000 psi fitting so they are asking what operating pressure I actually need. Does anyone know what pressure these mowers run at with the pro hydraulic pumps? I am trying to Google but my Google fu is weak today. Edit to add that we are assuming it needs the 4000 psi unless I can find otherwise, I was hoping to try it out this week but they are trying to source the fitting still. book says the relief valve is a 3500#. That is the only reference to pressure that I found. Sorry for keep forgetting to look. Have you called Messick's to inquire about a new one? Might not like the price, but whatever.... Do you have the part number of the hose? Should be dismantlers with those machines in their yard. Fry's in Pa might, but they don't ship any more, IIRC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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