Farmall C starter switch problems

[bankshotone]

Hello folks, I have had many issues in the past with the saddle type switch that mounts to the starter housing activated by a pull rod. Seems like all the ones I have been able to procure don't work. I am working on a C and the threads on the stud are bad so I bought a new switch from select parts which I have had been getting quality parts from, I put it on today and still the same issue. I got mad and put some putty between the copper lug on the starter and the lug on the switch then put the switch on the starter then activated the button. Turns out there is a gap between an 1/8" to 3/16" so the lugs are not even contacting each other. Surely I'm not alone with this issue, what is the solution? Case discontinued the part and doesn't even show a part number for it anymore. I did put the old switch back on to verify it still works and, yes it does. I'm at a loss as to what to do. Advice would sure be appreciated!

[mmi]

Its a common issues across all brands as the supply is %*^&(^&*(   50 x models take that or the next switch

Local shop takes weeks to receive parts and vet them, over 60% are NOT RETURNABLE FOR ANY REASON!!!

I ordered 3 of the cheapest switch (reputable ) and didnt bother the shop, as it would have been 3-5x $$$ .ALL are sourced from the same factory/supplier, just different "limited"QC for $$$.

2 are working with slight adjustment.

Its the PC NWO ,have nothing and like it,scrap it, go electric,and eat bugs.

When parts were somewhat decent returned a starter 5x . When tractor parked at night, always in neutral  and bat disconnected,for lunch in gear with attachment.

Several x while lunching , with no attachment, it was not where left ......thought kids playing? and run battery dead.

Until lunch in field ,and watched it walk off,key in pocket kept it from driving off......mexico/delco treated but not cured.

When you push the tab  3pt contact.  1 post could be backwards /short or the mount needs slotted + the expensive water/isolation gasket

 

[560Dennis]

They make new contacts for starter case . 
or am I not understanding the gap correctly, that close up some of the gap .

[bankshotone]

3 hours ago, 560Dennis said:

They make new contacts for starter case . 
or am I not understanding the gap correctly, that close up some of the gap .

The contact on the starter is fine. The new switch when pushed in all the way is an 1/8" away from touching the contact on the starter, that's my problem.

[560Dennis]

Huh! 
does the starter have the right contact ,comes up on an angle to match moving contact of the switch. 
 
or turn switch 180 degrees , I’m just  just guessing now , I don’t know never had one that did not travel far enough .

I get my switches now at napa off the turntable at the front of our store. 
 

all I can think of ,which you probably already done .

[560Dennis]

This the switch ?

https://www.napaonline.com/en/search?text=starter switch&referer=v2

 

[bankshotone]

3 hours ago, 560Dennis said:

This the switch ?

https://www.napaonline.com/en/search?text=starter switch&referer=v2

 

The s65603 is the style I am dealing with, the saddle mount style. Remember the old switch still worked so to me that dismisses the contact on the starter, that looks just fine by the way. I have tried napas version and all my ag parts suppliers switches. They all look the same which tells me there is only one manufacturer for them.

Standard ignition had a good switch part number ss522 but it has since been discontinued, I buy any nos on ebay whenever I see them.

Flipping the switch around only makes the problem worse as the contacts are off center of the mounting location.

In order to get my project going I ended up doing some surgery on the old and new switches and took the good threaded post out of the new switch and put in the old housing and works fine.

There has got to be other people that have had this issue as many times as it happens to me. There has got to be an answer, I know I'm not a genius but I am mechanically competent as I turn wrenches for a living.

[mmi]

 I said, sounds like NO QC or adults, thats why 90%> are non returnable

When children are paid < $.001 a "COPY" is not an original.

Fitting easier to copy parts to the original helped for now

[HydroTek]

Easiest way is to slot the mounting holes in the switch to move it closer to the lug -- also be sure the plunger is pushing all the way in, turn the switch over and look at the contact to be sure -- I have seen some that the spring binds up and keeps the plunger out a little -- leave that bottom gasket off, water won't run uphill

Also if you have replaced the starter post, and have not kept the thick insulating washer, the post will sit too low

I usually try to get the customer to goto a stud post and solenoid -- get away from the pull rod

[Matt Kirsch]

The buttons weren't so great even back in the day. Why do you think manufacturers went to solenoids the minute the technology became viable?

I remember as a kid, Dad having problems with the starter button on the Super M. Kept burning out. In the 1970s, when the tractor was only 25 years old and the parts were still "good" according to here. He put a Ford style solenoid and a twist-to-start key switch on it and never looked back. Replace the solenoid every 10 years, if then.

Unfortunately with the saddle switch starters you need to pull the starter apart and unsolder the pad to replace it with a stud. It's held in with a nut but is then soldered.

The quality of what you get these days is as much a function of the consumer as it is the manufacturer. You go to the dealer and they want $89 for a GOOD saddle switch, "You greedy mother-truckers! That's highway robbery! I ain't payin' that!" Then you go somewhere else and get the cheap knockoff for $19.99. The dealer doesn't sell any $89 GOOD switches, so they stop carrying them. The only thing that sells are the cheap ones, so what do you think are going to get stocked? Then you complain that you can't get any good ones anymore.

[mmi]

10 hours ago, Matt Kirsch said:

Then you go somewhere else and get the cheap knockoff for $19.99. The dealer doesn't sell any $89 GOOD switches, so they stop carrying them. The only thing that sells are the cheap ones, so what do you think are going to get stocked? Then you complain that you can't get any good ones anymore.

Problem is the "GOOD" is nothing more then the same (^&)*(_) CRAP with $ .50 QC and $ .20 fancy logo box, thus good = $.78 + fat +villa on the Rivera+ all the corrupt hands out x 2 to cover taxs . Then non coolaid dealer is stuck with <8% to operate on.
 

I sold an EU product/s,where 7/8 of the factory was sent to china, and then lo/behold could be made CHEAPER and BETTER in USA.

If you didnt drink the cool aid you didnt get product and/or what actually sold/kept the doors open.

Competition was $ 1/2 or less,  $75-700 /item made a living profit for everyone BUT MFG wanted dealers to be $150-2200/item upon site inspection/reports.

$35 vs $150 forces customer and dealer into < $19.99 against the "big boys" that pay < $5 for the item,with AI marketing.

Just this week I was in several BB looking for xyz,  back ordered last 6 months,both adult and kid said just "click amazn"

I said "WHY !!!! would I pay AZ zcam us off   $10 + shipping ($6.99)or member fee, for the IDENTICAL item off your shelf for $3.89 (full MSRP) <because they sucked up your order"

Too many cooks EATING the yoke and after the chicken before you get the soup.

[yellowrosefarm]

The Farmall A I used to have had a battery cable soldered to the lug on the starter, on the outside. Worked fine for many years. I had the same problem of a new switch not making contact on the C I have now. It was a NAPA and I returned it and got another one that did work.