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Getting ready to overhaul my first tractor. Dt436. I’ve got the tractor split and the engine on the stand. Any tips or tricks on these motors to save me headache and time? I’m doing a crank, sleeves, pistons, rings, gaskets. Are new lifters and rods usually necessary? Also doing wrist pins and one new rod 

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I put sleeves in without orings first and loosely checked standout,  some just fit better in certain holes. Labeled, then moved onto putting rods on.

If new wrist pins are tight in old rods, no need for new bushings. If old rods are straight no need for rods, I took new wrist pins out and put them in each rod to check play, then put rod, piston, sleeve in block as 1 assembly.

Dawn dish soap and a good piece of hardwood is your friend to get them seated all the way down.  Clamp down with short bolts and washers and triple check stand out.

Damper isn't much fun, needs to be heated and then put on. 

For the price we put new lifters in,a few were no longer turning and a couple were pitted.

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Mark which parts come from which hole , get a new quality camshaft with lifters new cam bearings check bearing clearance and anything that looks odd  new oil pump and you should be golden

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23 hours ago, brahamfireman said:

I put sleeves in without orings first and loosely checked standout,  some just fit better in certain holes. Labeled, then moved onto putting rods on.

If new wrist pins are tight in old rods, no need for new bushings. If old rods are straight no need for rods, I took new wrist pins out and put them in each rod to check play, then put rod, piston, sleeve in block as 1 assembly.

Dawn dish soap and a good piece of hardwood is your friend to get them seated all the way down.  Clamp down with short bolts and washers and triple check stand out.

Damper isn't much fun, needs to be heated and then put on. 

For the price we put new lifters in,a few were no longer turning and a couple were pitted.

I've installed many dampeners over the years and have never heated one to install. Not saying you can't but it's not necessary.

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Make sure you take the head to a good reputable machine shop and have the valves redone.   IDK why, but I've had it happen and have been told many times if you rebuild the bottom half and don't have the valves done it will likely eat a valve shortly after rebuild.    

Honestly these motor are really very easy to rebuild.   Keep everything in order where it came out of.   If the crank & bearings look good, you likely can reuse as is.  Mic it.  Clean everything well.   Have the cam & lifters checked.  The cam is often the bad spot - one or more lobes getting worn.  Get the head redone.  Also recommend you also have the pump and injectors checked.    

As far as the dampener - I always just used light oil, lined up the keyway real well and drew it on with longer bolts into the crank.    No way am I putting the rubber on that into hot oil or a furnace.

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X2 no heat pull it on cold with light oil can't imagine running the risk ruining the seal also from extreme temps

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Have the crank polished at the very least.

Have the head gone through....valves, seats, the works....

Have the rods checked and new piston pin bushings installed and reamed at the machine shop.

Test fit new sleeves without o-rings to see which ones fit best in each hole. 

Use Crisco on the sleeve o-rings. Don't ask why, just do it.

New cam and lifters is a good idea...unless you checked lift before teardown with a dial indicator.

Probably more I can think of, but this is what I can think of right now.

 

Travis

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