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Farmall super c governor


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My super c will not respond to throttle input. The lever works freely and all linkage to the governor is good and moving. The governor to carb linkage moves freely and is all connected. I assume there is a spring inside that broke or came unhooked. I am wanting to know if I can see inside the governor housing without removing it. There seems to be no caps or plugs to remove. Also if I remove it, it appears to be in the timing gear set. Is there a certain way besides the obvious of rolling it over to 1 tdc, remove, r&r the governor, then reinstall with correct timing marks?

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No way to see into it without X-ray vision.

You can remove the cover without disturbing the weights or timing gears. It's either 6 bolts and 5 different wrenches to get it off, or 5 bolts and 6 different wrenches. Been a while. It WILL come off without removing the radiator or the shroud.

If you are going to the trouble replace the spring AND the thrust bearing. One or the other has failed, and when one fails the other is not far behind.

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8 hours ago, Matt Kirsch said:

No way to see into it without X-ray vision.

You can remove the cover without disturbing the weights or timing gears. It's either 6 bolts and 5 different wrenches to get it off, or 5 bolts and 6 different wrenches. Been a while. It WILL come off without removing the radiator or the shroud.

If you are going to the trouble replace the spring AND the thrust bearing. One or the other has failed, and when one fails the other is not far behind.

A 9/16 socket will take off the governor. I just had mine apart on my 100 that also has a C123 engine. Hopefully you have better luck getting yours apart. But that's another story. :)

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9 hours ago, FarmallFan said:

A 9/16 socket will take off the governor. I just had mine apart on my 100 that also has a C123 engine. Hopefully you have better luck getting yours apart. But that's another story. :)

As I recall I needed a deep well socket to reach one bolt, but had to switch to a shallow well because the deep well hit the radiator shroud on the next bolt. A socket would not work on any of the other bolts. One I couldn't get a socket on at all and had to use a box end wrench. Another one I ended up using a ratcheting box wrench. Finally I had to use an open end wrench on one for some reason.

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  • 2 weeks later...

What ended up being wrong with it? I have a Farmall A that runs wide open all the time past rated RPM. Just started doing it yesterday. Throttle and linkage moves but doesnt affect the rpm at all. When the parts fail will they end up in the pan or in the timing gear? I have never had one apart before.

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2 hours ago, OFFTHEFARM said:

What ended up being wrong with it? I have a Farmall A that runs wide open all the time past rated RPM. Just started doing it yesterday. Throttle and linkage moves but doesnt affect the rpm at all. When the parts fail will they end up in the pan or in the timing gear? I have never had one apart before.

Sorry I can't answer that yet. I haven't gotten it taken apart yet. 

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Don't want to highjack Minnesotafarmall thread but this is what mine looks like. It appears everything is in one piece. The only strange thing is the sleeve is steel instead of plastic and the thrust bearing wore grooves in the sleeve and one of the races. Spring is ok too.

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18 hours ago, OFFTHEFARM said:

Did yours look similar to mine? Best I can tell everything in mine looks fine but it runs wide open all the time. The spring isn't broke or unhooked either.

Yes, same set up. Only thing I can think of your problem is the governor shaft to carb is broken, or the arm that pushes up against the spacer had fell down and got caught so it was binding thus causing it to go to full throttle. Or, simply, there is a pin missing.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I took mine apart and all of the parts seem to be in order. No broken parts of any kind. Nothing is rusted or stuck. The speed change lever #9 is a little sloppy but still rotated fine. Put it back together and had the same problem. Thought I would adjust the throttle rod and when I did the engine ran away and I needed to kill it so it didn't over rev and break itself. I did run #11 out some to try and slow it down a little to move it out of the shop. Still didnt have any throttle control. I did however have some throttle when I engaged the mower. It didnt idle all the way down but it would slow down to about half throttle under load. Any idea what part is sticking in the governor to make this happen?

20230627_171306.jpg

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First verify that carb throttle plate can close completely. Then with engine off put speed control lever in wide open position. With pin 12 removed adjust 10-11 until pin will fit with carb wide open.

Might want to check that throttle plate is straight up and down when wide open and doesn't go past.

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  • 2 months later...

So, I did find a broken part in the governor and installed a rebuild kit. The broken part was the bumper spring. It wasn't completely gone it had just rusted in half and sunk down into the adjusting screw. I didn't see it when I was looking at it the first time.

Would that affect the engine RPM? I was thinking that was more to keep the engine from galloping when under load.

Would I need to adjust the bumper spring after the new one is installed?

I reinstalled the governor and have the same problem. The engine RPM does change with the throttle when under load but not much. With no load its wide open all of the time.

I'm going to pull the carb off and have a look at that this week.

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4 hours ago, OFFTHEFARM said:

So, I did find a broken part in the governor and installed a rebuild kit. The broken part was the bumper spring. It wasn't completely gone it had just rusted in half and sunk down into the adjusting screw. I didn't see it when I was looking at it the first time.

Would that affect the engine RPM? I was thinking that was more to keep the engine from galloping when under load.

Would I need to adjust the bumper spring after the new one is installed?

I reinstalled the governor and have the same problem. The engine RPM does change with the throttle when under load but not much. With no load its wide open all of the time.

I'm going to pull the carb off and have a look at that this week.

Are the governor weights moving freely?

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Archived post might help  you all , it appears mine was much more abused than any of what I see  rockshaft  ,lever, spring s 

I made some modifications  added rivet to contact lever for anti bounce 

there  a difference in control spring c and super c is thirteen turns Farmall a and super a is 15 . I made the mistake order ,could only get 1500 rpm .

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On 6/28/2023 at 11:39 AM, snoshoe said:

First verify that carb throttle plate can close completely. Then with engine off put speed control lever in wide open position. With pin 12 removed adjust 10-11 until pin will fit with carb wide open.

Might want to check that throttle plate is straight up and down when wide open and doesn't go past.

Throttle plate is not closing. What part of this did you skip?

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1 hour ago, snoshoe said:

Throttle plate is not closing. What part of this did you skip?

I haven't skipped anything. Just haven't pulled the carb yet. I ran out of time this week. The curious thing for me is the carb side of the governor doesn't move when the throttle lever is moved. Seems like something isn't right in the governor. If I disconnect the rockshaft arm pin the throttle rod and carb move back and forth just fine. I will pull the carb and make sure the throttle plate is working correctly.

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With engine running and won't idle down. If pin 12 is loose you can look at governor.  If there is tension on it. Governor is working and problem is at other end of rod. If throttle closes to idle stop screw. Back out screw. If screw doesn't reach stop then drop carb and check throttle plate. If plate completely closes. A rich idle and an air leak is possible. 

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