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Paint for galvanized metal?


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I’ve had this small building for a few years and finally decided to do something with it.  The plan is for an elevated hunting blind. The problem is that it is galvanized and certain paints say not to use on galvanized metal. I would like a flat earth tone and intend to apply with a roller. It’s not going to be the Taj Mahal but has been dubbed the “attack shack”. Any paint pros out there?  

I pressure washed it to remove most of the loose paint and have been going over it with a cup brush on an angle grinder to clean up the rest. Any surface rust spots are getting primed after cleanup. I have searched the net for answers already but was hoping for real world knowledge.

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See if you can find a chromate self-etching primer.

 Lots of different regulations in the past few years have made the excellent paint formulations that really worked, alas, illegal.

 if self etch is not available, wash with dilute muriatic solution, then wash clear with hot water, and apply a primer immediately after drying.

 top coat with any paint that is compatible with your primer, for maximum weather resistance, a two-part epoxy paint will outlast most anything else.

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Would the tar based roof paint work? Then paint over that? 

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I let the “paint crew” doing our roofs shoot that stuff onto an extra fuel storage tank once.   When it was time to do it again, rustoleum “aluminum” (silver paint) wouldn’t stick to it. It softened the roof tar paint and made a sticky mess.

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I’ve had regular red oxide primer overspray get onto a “galvanized” tin/crappy steel farm gate, and onto a rack made from 2” galvanized water pipe.  Both pieces were then stored/used outside, and I remember that red primer overspray took a Long time to wear off

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Well there's old hot galvanized and new cold, I agree and was always told it was the right primer for success

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This is not “new” by any stretch. I don’t know the age but I would guess original construction to be the 70’s. It had electric hooked up to it at one point with glass barrel fuses so long story short, the outer metal isn’t glossy or smooth. 

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Ya you can tell the old good stuff by the Grey color the new stuff all looks more silver

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You can use a process called "Pickling" to get the primmer to stick 

i.e. wipe it down with vinegar

There are also some metal etching products out there that will work   

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Old and weathered…..I bet $25 rustoleum will stick just fine.   I’d spray it though. With a $20 harbor freight siphon  gun so that you could build it up in layers. (Two anyway).  First one very light and thin, like a heavy dust. Use bottom of the line $10 paint thinner from the hardware store, that will have it dry slow and give you time to work.   Let it set up till it seems dry to the touch, just and half hour, not overnight or then you (should) sand it (scotch bright pad quick quick low effort ).  And shoot your top color paint right on it. 

Self  etch primer is $80-100/quart and you would need two for that job, if not more 

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3 hours ago, stronger800 said:

Cut windows into it first?

I plan to cut windows into it, yes.  I was going to paint first and just touch up. That is when I was going to roller paint it. Air Gun will do a better job but will be more hassle also. I have an old paint gun and definitely would not use my good one for this. 

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I would let it be, the weathered coating, broken pattern and lived in appearance works from my point of view.  Why take on more work if you don’t need to?

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Just get the correct color spray cans and write attack shack in graffiti style graphics mixed with slashes to camouflage it and call it good ?

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https://www.sherwin-williams.com/painting-contractors/products/pro-industrial-urethane-alkyd-enamel

They used this stuff to paint the galvanized buildings where I work. They just pressure washed first, then painted. That was probably close to 10 years ago and they don't look any different. I bought some after seeing how easy it went on there, and painted my gooseneck trailer. That was about 5 years ago and the trailer still looks great. 

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2 hours ago, yellowrosefarm said:

https://www.sherwin-williams.com/painting-contractors/products/pro-industrial-urethane-alkyd-enamel

They used this stuff to paint the galvanized buildings where I work. They just pressure washed first, then painted. That was probably close to 10 years ago and they don't look any different. I bought some after seeing how easy it went on there, and painted my gooseneck trailer. That was about 5 years ago and the trailer still looks great. 

I’m pretty sure we used something similar to this to paint two shipping containers.  Held up really well. Looked no different after 10 years.  Starting to fade pretty good at 15 but never inside.

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  • 2 months later...

I finally had some time to get back on the attack shack. Interior was cleaned more and self etching aerosol primer around any new cut edges. I added one window which was framed with treated lumber and trimmed out. It will get an exterior paint job once the other two windows are finished in the other side and the end.  9CBADAA2-536A-4FB7-95AB-665FE28861DC.thumb.jpeg.2c4cf3e516abf21da2064cbd79ccbf1c.jpeg553A4392-644E-4B9C-BBEA-C691DCEAE93D.thumb.jpeg.e19cf5b25caf817aeb2cac0be33daf42.jpeg7AE7ACA4-4268-4DE0-B38C-3FBBF274C9F0.thumb.jpeg.6e8c16db7d204d992fd18fcdadb25319.jpeg

It came with telephone pole cross arms for floor joists.  They were spaced evenly and fastened in place first. 80ADD55E-04BC-4F28-AD4C-A1F3EB53D0EF.thumb.jpeg.73f43f2be8a8c9039d2add41c355aeb5.jpeg
I had good help 😊3AA88DCF-15B8-4FD3-8443-53AA46574C66.thumb.jpeg.94314357e755ab1641cc2d51745f8d14.jpeg7ADEB9A3-3EE7-4908-A0E3-D91E8758277B.thumb.jpeg.f3f59109bdeab42ec9260cb859bbb412.jpeg

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That might be loud in there when the fire stick goes boom 😁

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11 minutes ago, hardtail said:

That might be loud in there when the fire stick goes boom 😁

Nah. Muzzle will be outside. It will be just like when I shoot out of a window on the house 😁

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