mmi Posted May 26 Share Posted May 26 WHo is the cub experts? Picked up a couple for parts to save from scrap, $40 so far and 6-7 hours freeing everything up. One runs great and quiet gears, the other (with same IH carb fitted ) will only run 1500-4000rpm, even with lever held to idle stop. How can this be? I know they do funny things when the $75 gov bearing looses some marbles. but that is over riden Cleaning 10 yr stale carbs,? ultrasonic or a pail of cheap dip $55 ....? Pine sol this cant work well, and plastic safe ,why in a metal can that will only last 1 yr? Fast-acting immersion cleaner Effective on gum, varnish, sludge, hard carbon, oil, and grease Safe for use on plastic, rubber, and most painted components Compatible with most metals and alloys VOC compliant in all 50 states ANyone remember central tractor/ and/or know where to find a current parts, used price sheet like in all their catalogs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrfred54 Posted May 26 Share Posted May 26 Remove the pin in the linkage from the governor to the carburetor and run by hand. If you can make it idle down then time to remove the governor. I hope it don't turn 4000 rpm, it will desinagrate😃 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmi Posted May 26 Author Share Posted May 26 howling near take off fast, it sure cleaned the radiator and sandblasted the seat. will remove rod ,but forcing stop <SHOULD have the same effect. IDK runs perfect on the other engine. unfortunately Too good to part now, Thats why I got banned from, thru the shop ,dealer dead row. oil is 20 psi idle 30 psi when hot. 50 when wound will soak carbs and offer for sale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Kirsch Posted May 26 Share Posted May 26 8 hours ago, mmi said: forcing stop <SHOULD have the same effect Not if by "forcing stop" you mean shoving the throttle lever forward to idle. It still goes through the governor and if the governor is broken, the engine is just going to do whatever it wants. Now if you disconnect the linkage to the carburetor and shove it closed, and the engine STILL goes 4000 RPM, you need to call the government immediately because you've just found a machine that breaks the laws of physics, and solved the energy crisis, LOL. I remember the old Central Tractor and their used parts "network." There's nothing like that anymore. Closest thing out there is All States Ag Parts and they're regional. You can look up part prices from them online, but many used parts you have to call because the price varies depending on the quality and availability of the part you need. If you want a good source of reasonably priced used Cub parts from good folks, look up JP Tractor Salvage. They could set you up with a complete good governor and have it in your hands by next Wednesday, for probably under $100 shipped. Or you can just replace the $20 spring that's probably broke. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacAR Posted May 26 Share Posted May 26 You may need to adjust the gov to carb rod; my Cub wouldn't idle down after replacing the gov spring and rebuilding carb. Wound up having to readjust that rod and now have a good idle. As far as going to 4 grand on the top end, there are two adjustment screws, one on top of the governor and one on the front, that will limit how far the engine will rev. Each takes a little futzing with to get each one of the adjusted right, but once you do that should stop the over-revving. Mac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gearclash Posted May 27 Share Posted May 27 Throttle plate screws could be AWOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmi Posted May 27 Author Share Posted May 27 Issue is old and deeper, looks like PO put $500 + into it WHEN parked. new carb (gummed up),electrics ,tune up ,tires.etc. 2 other just took off perfect carbs,idles down to 13-1500 on 1/2 choke. suspect small vacuum leak but not evident by fogging, water not circulating fast enough,running hot,before getting gauge on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmi Posted May 30 Author Share Posted May 30 So far it looks like by first thoughts,the one with all the repairs would be best for use/restore etc , is destine for donor project for someone. The one with the worst rust away from setting 10 years,purrs along and drives quiet, as in low use. ........camera now, not compatible with new computer. *&&^^%^ $$$ Got idle down to 1200 ,but requires 3/4 choke for any combination of carbs?, governor works good with out a lug ,as clutch/many parts are still tight/rusted. 19" vacuum, no leaks showing. By the many (10 yr old) "new" parts and lots of form agasket some one was chasing issues. What are you using for carb soak that actually works and not > $50 Any one find these parts at SANE pricing? 251235r1 i gs 251300r2 o nl 251337r3 ob gs 70949c92 os am 368357r9 nb gs 71523c93 ns am 73238c1 n nl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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