FarmerFixEmUp Posted May 24 Share Posted May 24 I've had my 5288 for over 20 years. Never had ac work worth a hoot in my opinion. It had 134 in it when I bought it. Couldn't get air vent temp more than 15 degrees under ambient temp. Replaced receiver drier and expansion valve, no difference, has Duracool freon since 134 was always an issue keeping in the system. I have used this type freon in dozens of tractors with good results. Last summer I replaced the compressor with a new York, replaced the radiator and the condenser with a high efficiency unit from AP Air. Didn't matter one bit. Less than 50 hours on those parts. I have an auxiliary condenser to add to the other one inline but haven't got it on yet. Planting beans with it today it was livable in there but not great. 82 degrees and 30% humidity, low humidity any AC doesn't work well. When filling the planter I had it idling at 1300 or so RPM, at that engine speed it doesn't cool at all. Needs to be 1800 or so to even feel cool air. My 5488 has the exact same setup and works great, but the 5488's have a bigger fan and move a lot more air. With the new radiator everything in the system is as clean as it can be. I know it's hard to keep the bottom half of the radiator clean. Only thigs not replaced are hoses and evaporator. I had the roof off last summer and evaporator is pretty clean too. Seems to me a lot of these models have this problem, just a poor design? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mighty1206 Posted May 24 Share Posted May 24 We have owned a 3688 since new and a couple 5488's for over 10 years now. Never had a issue keeping the cab cool on any of them. Very seldom do i ever have the temperature control switch turned all the way up. I always thought they cooled very well. Figured the forward air flow helped keep the cab cooler by keeping the engine heat off the cab. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Kirsch Posted May 24 Share Posted May 24 This is why the doors and windows are missing on so many tractors. You spend a bunch of money to fix it and get it all perfect with new everything, and they don't work out of the gate, or the refrigerant all leaks out anyway. Can't figure out why, and it nickels and dimes you to death in the process... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerFixEmUp Posted May 24 Author Share Posted May 24 4 hours ago, Mighty1206 said: We have owned a 3688 since new and a couple 5488's for over 10 years now. Never had a issue keeping the cab cool on any of them. Very seldom do i ever have the temperature control switch turned all the way up. I always thought they cooled very well. Figured the forward air flow helped keep the cab cooler by keeping the engine heat off the cab. I hear more complaints of 50 and 5288's than 5488's and I think the 8 blade vs 6 blade fan is why. Walk in front of the 54 when it's running and you can definitely feel the difference. I also had a 3688 for a while and it was better than this 5288 is, but every tractor seems different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HydroTek Posted May 24 Share Posted May 24 Usually a plugged radiator on the front flow tractors -- lower half will plug first, because of the way air flows thru the air box The other problem is the foam on the roof cover -- this lets air bypass the evaporator when it is damaged 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brahamfireman Posted May 24 Share Posted May 24 Short of knowing the pressures, it's all speculation. 200-250 on the high side and 30-50 on the low. Pressure difference means temperature difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerFixEmUp Posted May 24 Author Share Posted May 24 Had the gauges on yesterday. 40 on the low and 210 on high. Normal for this freon. When I had 134 in it the high would get over 270 easy. Before the radiator and condenser were changed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TB5288 Posted May 24 Share Posted May 24 10 hours ago, FarmerFixEmUp said: I've had my 5288 for over 20 years. Never had ac work worth a hoot in my opinion. It had 134 in it when I bought it. Couldn't get air vent temp more than 15 degrees under ambient temp. Replaced receiver drier and expansion valve, no difference, has Duracool freon since 134 was always an issue keeping in the system. I have used this type freon in dozens of tractors with good results. Last summer I replaced the compressor with a new York, replaced the radiator and the condenser with a high efficiency unit from AP Air. Didn't matter one bit. Less than 50 hours on those parts. I have an auxiliary condenser to add to the other one inline but haven't got it on yet. Planting beans with it today it was livable in there but not great. 82 degrees and 30% humidity, low humidity any AC doesn't work well. When filling the planter I had it idling at 1300 or so RPM, at that engine speed it doesn't cool at all. Needs to be 1800 or so to even feel cool air. My 5488 has the exact same setup and works great, but the 5488's have a bigger fan and move a lot more air. With the new radiator everything in the system is as clean as it can be. I know it's hard to keep the bottom half of the radiator clean. Only thigs not replaced are hoses and evaporator. I had the roof off last summer and evaporator is pretty clean too. Seems to me a lot of these models have this problem, just a poor design? You need to get the second condenser installed, it made a huge difference on mine. Also, if it doesn't have it, take some foam and stuff it on the sides and on the top of the condenser's. Make it so the air being pulled through has to go across the condenser to get to the radiator and can't get pulled into the radiator around the sides. I have no complaints on the a/c in this tractor since installing the second condenser, and I'm in 100-105 a lot. I also installed a conversion to the cab blower. I installed the blower assembly that has a motor for each squirrel cage fan. That made for more air flow, but the condenser made biggest difference because it got the air cold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TB5288 Posted May 24 Share Posted May 24 2 minutes ago, TB5288 said: You need to get the second condenser installed, it made a huge difference on mine. Also, if it doesn't have it, take some foam and stuff it on the sides and on the top of the condenser's. Make it so the air being pulled through has to go across the condenser to get to the radiator and can't get pulled into the radiator around the sides. I have no complaints on the a/c in this tractor since installing the second condenser, and I'm in 100-105 a lot. I also installed a conversion to the cab blower. I installed the blower assembly that has a motor for each squirrel cage fan. That made for more air flow, but the condenser made biggest difference because it got the air cold. Also, 1 more thing, make sure the engine fan is not on backwards. I'm not saying that to be a smart a** or anything like that. I've seen it happen a few times. I think it gets taken apart to replace bearing and gets reinstalled backwards by mistake. Depending on what the tractor is doing, alot of times you'd never know it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HydroTek Posted May 24 Share Posted May 24 40 on the low side is too high -- need to adjust the expansion valve down some -- those old systems were set to R12, and other "refrigerants" need different settings to work well -- would cool much better at 20-30 Unless this is at idle, then that pressure may be seen -- rev the engine to 1500 is fast enough The hydrocarbon refrigerant is pretty good stuff -- there are a few types , but only available in the small cans in the USA -- R600 (isobutane) is the best in my experience - R290 (propane) works but pressure is higher 4 minutes ago, TB5288 said: Also, 1 more thing, make sure the engine fan is not on backwards. I'm not saying that to be a smart a** or anything like that. I've seen it happen a few times. I think it gets taken apart to replace bearing and gets reinstalled backwards by mistake. Depending on what the tractor is doing, alot of times you'd never know it. Yep -- seems to be pretty common -- the leading edge on the fan faces the radiator -- since the air flows toward the front of the tractor several times I have seen the fan flipped the wrong direction "leading edge" is the more flatter part of the blades -- "trailing edge" is the more curved part of the blade Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HydroTek Posted May 24 Share Posted May 24 6 minutes ago, TB5288 said: Also, 1 more thing, make sure the engine fan is not on backwards. I'm not saying that to be a smart a** or anything like that. I've seen it happen a few times. I think it gets taken apart to replace bearing and gets reinstalled backwards by mistake. Depending on what the tractor is doing, alot of times you'd never know it. Speaking of fan blades on wrong -- seen cab blower cage fans on wrong many times -- they go on backward of what you would think at first glance -- the outer part of the blades face into the direction of rotation This can easily be tested by running the fan while it is out of the cab , and see which way blows more air Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerFixEmUp Posted May 24 Author Share Posted May 24 3 hours ago, HydroTek said: 40 on the low side is too high -- need to adjust the expansion valve down some -- those old systems were set to R12, and other "refrigerants" need different settings to work well -- would cool much better at 20-30 Unless this is at idle, then that pressure may be seen -- rev the engine to 1500 is fast enough The hydrocarbon refrigerant is pretty good stuff -- there are a few types , but only available in the small cans in the USA -- R600 (isobutane) is the best in my experience - R290 (propane) works but pressure is higher Yep -- seems to be pretty common -- the leading edge on the fan faces the radiator -- since the air flows toward the front of the tractor several times I have seen the fan flipped the wrong direction "leading edge" is the more flatter part of the blades -- "trailing edge" is the more curved part of the blade Pressures were checked at about 1400 RPM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acem Posted May 25 Share Posted May 25 Does the top of your cab leak air? Is the recirculation door open? It's much easier to stay cool if you're not cooling hot air from outside! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerFixEmUp Posted May 25 Author Share Posted May 25 It's not even really hot here yet. Low 80;s and 30% humidity. Was in the 1066 with Year A Round cab all afternoon and that AC is way better than this 5288 ever was. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerFixEmUp Posted May 27 Author Share Posted May 27 On 5/24/2023 at 10:51 AM, TB5288 said: You need to get the second condenser installed, it made a huge difference on mine. Also, if it doesn't have it, take some foam and stuff it on the sides and on the top of the condenser's. Make it so the air being pulled through has to go across the condenser to get to the radiator and can't get pulled into the radiator around the sides. I have no complaints on the a/c in this tractor since installing the second condenser, and I'm in 100-105 a lot. I also installed a conversion to the cab blower. I installed the blower assembly that has a motor for each squirrel cage fan. That made for more air flow, but the condenser made biggest difference because it got the air cold. Well I got the second condenser on. Just finished planting soybeans, and it's definitely cooler in the cab, but not major in my opinion. 85 degrees here and only 20% humidity so AC probably not working like it would in humid weather. Gauges are at 30 and 150 with suggested amount 30% of Duracool, 1400 rpm. Still not great at idle. Put in a few bags of beans and left it idle and temp was warmer inside, rev up to 1500 or more and it works better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TB5288 Posted May 27 Share Posted May 27 I think you still have something wrong. Hi side seems a little low but I'm not familiar with that freon. Heater valves shutoff? I think the next thing Is be looking for us a restriction in a line. Check for cold spots in the hoses. It should cool better and I don't think you should see much a difference between 1400 and 1500 rpms. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TroyDairy Posted May 27 Share Posted May 27 8930 was always piddly. Evap change huge difference. Just old I suppose. Sealing the cab? We vacuumed and washed the 8930 cab for hours. Dried it and redid foam on cab lid etc. With in a season the drains were plugged with dust up top.... Old stuff, more a/c problems. My 186 never was very good either. The Puma will freeze you out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acem Posted May 28 Share Posted May 28 Have you thoroughly cleaned the evaporator? I've had some that needed acid to come clean. Some have to be replaced. Thx-Ace 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neukm Posted May 29 Share Posted May 29 Make sure BOTH heater valves are closed by the engine 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superih Posted May 29 Share Posted May 29 I ended up having to over charge my 5488 and now it runs nice and cold Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoshoe Posted May 29 Share Posted May 29 Tighten the belt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerFixEmUp Posted May 29 Author Share Posted May 29 On 5/27/2023 at 9:10 PM, acem said: Have you thoroughly cleaned the evaporator? I've had some that needed acid to come clean. Some have to be replaced. Thx-Ace I blew it out last summer and flushed it with a garden hose. It was pretty dirty at the start. This is the same tractor that hasn't had 3rd and 4th gear working for a while. Getting tired of planting at 4 mph.🥺 I found the shift fork bolts on the 1 2, 3 4 gear, one was gone and the other ready to fall out. Funny 1st and 2nd always worked fine. Had it split and replaced the synchronizers in those gears and replaced the pads on the shift forks. New seals in the hi low clutch packs. Put it together and worked a little while (1/2 hour) then back to not at all in those gears. Has to be something in the side cover I'm thinking. This tractor has done this somewhat since I've owned it and has gradually gotten worse. To where letting out the clutch it jumps out of that gear. Linkage seems good and tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88power Posted May 30 Share Posted May 30 pull the top on the cab get the foaming condenser/evaporator cleaner from the big box store follow directions on can clean evaporator till clear water runs out make sure your drain tubes are cleaned if not whoever runs it next will get a muddy water bath, the lid on the cab is supposed to have a piece of foam on it if not or in rough shape replace it, cut the outward air flow off i've got in arguments over this in the past but like ace said you don't want to be cooling the hot air from outside and off the rear end, cut off heater valves, the aux condenser has really been working for us not just with performance but the life of the compressors, as far as flow and fans goes i agree it's not a good design but we only have one 54 and i got all the rest cooling as good as it,one thing i do that others might not agree with and I'm not saying it works for everyone, we run in 99% grass so i leave the foam out of the bottom of the radiator, less grass and junk collects and when you wash it out it runs out, i've replaced every radiator we have at least once and all but one was rotten at the bottom from junk collected over the years, one 50 cools better than the rest and i've yet to figure out what is different with it then the rest tried to mimic it and can't, if you do go to put the aux on one thing you can try is flush the system it's amazing how much junk is in those lines just don't run the flush thru your drier compressor or expansion valve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Takn4aFool Posted May 30 Share Posted May 30 converted the 3688 from R12 to 134A.....it cooled real good before and after the conversion, reason for the conversion was that it had leaked and lost the R12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerFixEmUp Posted May 30 Author Share Posted May 30 1 hour ago, 88power said: one 50 cools better than the rest and i've yet to figure out what is different with it then the rest tried to mimic it and can't, I know what you mean by some are better than others. My 5488, all I've ever done to it is replace the foam under the cab roof and recharge it. Works better than the 5288 which has been a pain since day one. I think the radiator fan has a lot to do with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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