mader656 Posted April 30 Share Posted April 30 @Finney @AKwelder and the rest of you welders im struggling with getting 2 7/8 copeed to 4 inch pipe i reground my cutting gauge but hoping for other ideas to speed up fit as ive got over 1000 to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mader656 Posted April 30 Author Share Posted April 30 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Dinan Posted April 30 Share Posted April 30 I have used a cutoff wheel on a grinder, but it was on handrails. Same size posts, though. Not sure if it will work for you on this job. I just cut an angle off top and bottom. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobbyfarm Posted April 30 Share Posted April 30 That is some serious fence. What are they keeping in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mader656 Posted April 30 Author Share Posted April 30 4 minutes ago, hobbyfarm said: That is some serious fence. What are they keeping in? Keeping maintenance to zero. Couple of horses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vtfireman85 Posted April 30 Share Posted April 30 How are you cutting it now? I have had good luck using a hole saw, but it is slow and wouldn’t hold up long term. Are you using acetylene or plasma? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Absent Minded Farmer Posted April 30 Share Posted April 30 Can you free hand plasma cut those? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bitty Posted April 30 Share Posted April 30 I learned this method from one of the Mennonite kids when they built out barn . He used a demo saw to cut the pipe. Holds up pretty well but not 100% but 6010 first pass then 7018 and then it's good to go 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mader656 Posted April 30 Author Share Posted April 30 7 hours ago, vtfireman85 said: How are you cutting it now? I have had good luck using a hole saw, but it is slow and wouldn’t hold up long term. Are you using acetylene or plasma? Plasma. Roughly 2400 copes to do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mader656 Posted April 30 Author Share Posted April 30 1 hour ago, bitty said: I learned this method from one of the Mennonite kids when they built out barn . He used a demo saw to cut the pipe. Holds up pretty well but not 100% but 6010 first pass then 7018 and then it's good to go Ive done similar with the portaband Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finney Posted April 30 Share Posted April 30 Mader, When using 2-7/8" cross pieces into 4" pipe I cut holes in the 4" and insert the 2-7/8" into the 4". Alot faster, I use a circle cutter on a 180* torch head. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKwelder Posted April 30 Share Posted April 30 I haven’t done much pipe fence. I would try Finney’s method. It would be more forgiving and you can dress up the hole with a stone if you need to. I have seen the chop sawing the ends like Bitty shows and it works after you get it dialed in. If we are cutting saddles for piping we normally make a steel template that slips over the pipe, which is what it sounds like you doing. I have an App that calculates my ordinate lines for saddles when we are doing one off versions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vtfireman85 Posted April 30 Share Posted April 30 I have seen a similar method to the one you describe only using square stock as the guide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midnightman Posted April 30 Share Posted April 30 I usually do a flat pattern layout on paper. Using AutoCAD is easier but have done it in the field also with basic tools. For numerous cuts I transfer to a small piece of pipe. Pipe fitters handbooks have the process to make the layout. Easy once you’ve done a couple and works perfectly every time for all sizes and angles of joints Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mader656 Posted April 30 Author Share Posted April 30 2 hours ago, Finney said: Mader, When using 2-7/8" cross pieces into 4" pipe I cut holes in the 4" and insert the 2-7/8" into the 4". Alot faster, I use a circle cutter on a 180* torch head. Im afraid this 4 inch is nearly .375 wall it cuts extremely slowly and very little room for error. Ive got my modified cut gauge, im going to pickup a few other tools to help speed it up the process and my first employee starts tomorrow so we will see how it goes. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finney Posted April 30 Share Posted April 30 A lot of the 4" we use is .375 wall or thicker. I can still cut 4 holes faster than saddling 4 ends of pipe. plus you can cut the cross pipe 1-1/2' longer than the actual measurement between the post so you dont have to be as accurate with the cuts as you would if saddling the pipe. I cant stand a coped/saddled pipe someone has cut a 1/4' short. Plus I never had the post that were exactly plumb, the top or bottom will be shorter if cop/saddling where as the insert method it does not matter. It usaually takes me a couple of holes to get the circle cutter adjusted where I want then its turn and burn. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Beale Posted April 30 Share Posted April 30 Our boys are pest fencing the ranch using 6 foot woven mesh with 1 foot a bottom lap, which needs substantial end assemblies. They have an hydraulic cylinder set up run by the skid steer that flattens the ends of the horizontals. Makes for easier cutting and welding. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Plow Posted April 30 Share Posted April 30 Ian's end flattening method seems to be another solid solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stronger800 Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 I believe that .not too long ago they voted thumbs down on that method Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mader656 Posted May 1 Author Share Posted May 1 Crushed ends look ok in the back 40 not the front yard...also a strength issue. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Beale Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 5 hours ago, mader656 said: Crushed ends look ok in the back 40 not the front yard...also a strength issue. Any links back to that strength issue as I must have missed it? TIA The squasher does double duty as the wood splitter here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mader656 Posted May 1 Author Share Posted May 1 4 hours ago, Ian Beale said: Any links back to that strength issue as I must have missed it? TIA The squasher does double duty as the wood splitter here Im not 100% certian on links but crushing the ends causes the tube to be deformed and bend easier. Im sure it will hold the us farmer tight fence just fine. But good tight tall high tensile woven might be a issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawleigh99 Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 Here is a good video on Finney's technique. Rail length is not critical with this method. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobbyfarm Posted May 2 Share Posted May 2 This type of fence and driven steel posts don't happen in our part of the country or at least that I know of. Everything here is treated wood posts. Why is that? I'm guessing moist climate rots of all but the thickets wall pipe. What kind of life expectancy on this fence? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vtfireman85 Posted May 2 Share Posted May 2 3 minutes ago, hobbyfarm said: This type of fence and driven steel posts don't happen in our part of the country or at least that I know of. Everything here is treated wood posts. Why is that? I'm guessing moist climate rots of all but the thickets wall pipe. What kind of life expectancy on this fence? I assumed that was drill pipe, rumor has it it is cheap and plentiful in the right place. I want to figure out where to get it and make a road trip with a trailer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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