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Anybody widen out an 826 to 120"


JaredT

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We are looking to widen out our tires on our 826 for spraying. Would like to go to 120" on center,  but a little leary of the 3.25" axles taking the stress. I already measured and can get the rears out that wide using our dual spacers. We have a fab shop that can and has modified the front axles on 2wd tractors to 120". My main concern is if the rear axles will take the stress. The new to us sprayer is 1200 gallon 90', which we will not be putting more than 800 gallons in as that will cover our biggest field. I have already put that much in our current sprayer with 60' booms and handles it fine, bit is set at 66" 

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I remember when i was a kid my dad was always looking at good used tractors. He always said do not get one that had been on a beet harvester as they have had the wheels set out really wide and had a reputation of giving problems later on.

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5 hours ago, 801486 said:

Just plant your corn in 20" rows and run on 80" centers

I would but I can't get the corn header that tight without a ton of work. Plus our sand won't support 20" corn, not going narrow rows on the corn and beans are staying 20"

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On 4/24/2023 at 1:34 AM, JaredT said:

I would but I can't get the corn header that tight without a ton of work. Plus our sand won't support 20" corn, not going narrow rows on the corn and beans are staying 20"

 

Not trying to be argumentative, but do you mean the corn will go down in 20" rows or what.  For moisture wouldn't narrower be better because you would get canopy quicker.  Neighbor has 20" rows and likes them, said it wasn't too hard building a 20" head I've thought about doing it myself.

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We are looking to update the combine in the next few years, going from a 1460 and 1480 to a flagship. I don't want to transform the old 883 just to replace the combine and header in a couple of years. Our 20" planter is a toolbar and without fertilizer. Our Puma handles it fine but we aren't interested in adding more weight to that planter. 

Our sand is basically beach sand 8' deep in places. It can really dry out fast, canopy or not. We can have rain in the morning and dust at noon. In a really wet year, it can wash our stabilized nitrogen out because the water travels through it into our drainage tile so quickly. 7 out of 10 years we can have excellent crops the other 3 are usually mediocre.  I'm not sure 20" would hurt us, but I'm not really willing to risk it, we like what we have going and can do really well with it most years. 

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  • 4 months later...

I bet you will be fine as long as your careful and not abuse it.Sudden ground hog holes or ditch hits will tell you either way.But if it doesn't a narrow front single wheel might work better. Just don't rip and tear and the person running it should be the guy that's gotta fix it.

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I'm the one running it, it is stronger than it looks.  We couldn't go heavier wall tube or the knees wouldn't fit inside of it. Couldn't go bigger O.D. or it wouldn't fit in the bolster area, so trussing it was the only way to strengthen it up. My only concern is a washout or ground hog hole like said above.  I will say this, it sure turns nice.

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10 hours ago, JaredT said:

I'm the one running it, it is stronger than it looks.  We couldn't go heavier wall tube or the knees wouldn't fit inside of it. Couldn't go bigger O.D. or it wouldn't fit in the bolster area, so trussing it was the only way to strengthen it up. My only concern is a washout or ground hog hole like said above.  I will say this, it sure turns nice.

I wouldn’t worry about front end or rear. The only thing in rear is wheel bearing wear is a bit more pronounced but not enough to worry. After seeing yours I might stretch a 2 wd out in a couple years just for fungicide.

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3 hours ago, JaredT said:

I was really happy that I could set the rear hubs all the way in and use the extensions. Hopefully keep the load on the inner part of the axle. 

It doesn’t matter.  The fulcrum point of the axle (at the outer bearing) remains the same regardless of where exactly the wheel is attached to the axle.  Also, all else being equal, the farther the rear wheels are from center, the more load there is on the axle bearings.

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7 hours ago, Gearclash said:

It doesn’t matter.  The fulcrum point of the axle (at the outer bearing) remains the same regardless of where exactly the wheel is attached to the axle.  Also, all else being equal, the farther the rear wheels are from center, the more load there is on the axle bearings.

I agree the fulcrum point is the same, but I'm not worried about bearings. My concern is the 3.25" axle breaking, with the hub in all the way it alleviates my concerns

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58 minutes ago, snoshoe said:

False security. If it breaks it will be next to the bearing either way.

Exactly.  

Someone could convince me even that having the hub well away from the axle housing might benefit the axle slightly by allowing the axle shaft to flex slightly rather than not at all.

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