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756 - Clutch settings + TA dump valve


François02

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On my 756 the clutch has been changed

I adjusted rods today from the pedal to the clutch lever. I used the workshop manual.

I adjusted the 11/16" pedal free travel required. I also adjusted the transmission brake.

My problem is I can not put the TA dump valve linkage...

As you can see on the pic, the bolt is too short... Or there is something wrong somewhere else...

The tractor has not its wheels so I can use the transmission and the clutch seems working fine. I don't know what to do...

Other problem, there is a leak on the TA valve assy (the one witch is linked with the TA lever), and a leak on the TA dump valve (the one I can not link with the clutch linkage). I looked at the schema and it is 2 O-rings to change on each I think? Is it a big job to change the O-rings?

Thanks in advance for your help! It is the last straight line of the restoration 😎

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I use a quad ring on ta spool. Seals better longer. Dump valve I remember as an oil seal. If ta lever is in same position in all three pictures. Something is wrong with linkage. With ta spool down. Hole in bottom lever of bellcrank should be 3/4 inch from casting flange. Also in bottom picture are you showing pedal free play or is return spring missing?

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1 hour ago, snoshoe said:

I use a quad ring on ta spool. Seals better longer. Dump valve I remember as an oil seal. If ta lever is in same position in all three pictures. Something is wrong with linkage. With ta spool down. Hole in bottom lever of bellcrank should be 3/4 inch from casting flange. Also in bottom picture are you showing pedal free play or is return spring missing?

I do not have installed the return spring yet; it is the free play I showed

I set the whole TA linkage as it is explain in the workshop manual

 

1 hour ago, ksfarmdude said:

Has the bolt been replaced recently?  Get a longer bolt and adjust it according

it is the original one, there is an "IH" in the head!

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Has the clutch rod been changed. The rod, there are two different one's. There are serial number breaks for the 66 series tractors. If the wrong one is installed from a scrap yard you will need a longer bolt for the dump valve as has been suggested. Had the same thing happen to me years ago, working on a 766. Seal replacement is quite simple. Just remove the nuts and mount in a vice and remove seal and orings

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here is more pics

the dump valve is return on the tractor as its maximum, and the clutch pedal is free (I did not install the spring yet... and I miss it so I just ordered it this morning :D I needed so much parts... I forget one sometimes!)

 

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I would suspect something in the clutch has changed throw out bearing possibly  The arm is in a different position from the older pic when compared to the other pic

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I changed the disc from a 4 pads to a 6 pads but that is all

the pressure plate was "flattened" but keeping the original dimension

I guess the arm is in a different position because there was too much free play in the pedal when I received the tractor

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The clutch disc may be thicker. The flywheel step may be to short. If you can disengage clutch without engaging transmission brake. Don't worry about it. To much freeplay is when you can not disengage clutch. Give it as much free play as you can maintaining some distance between clutch dis engaging and transmission brake engagement. Then get a longer bolt if necessary to adjust dump valve. Keep this one as you may need it as clutch wears in.

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I adjusted all the linkage (clutch + trans brake) as shown in the workshop manual, and I can disengage clutch when I lean on the pedal. Gears work (a few ajustements to do with the 1-2-3-4 lever but H, L and R work good) correctly

Perhaps I ask dumb questions sometimes but even if it is basis mechanical, europeans tractors have often cables to clutch control, and no TA dump valve to manage :D I don't know a mechanic who knows those US tractors because there were not a lot of those here! In the local dealer (the bigger in France), the best mechanic knows perfectly Magnums and Steiger/Quadtrac but not old farmall :D 

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It looks like you are missing the snap ring that goes into the groove of the spool valve.

#47 in the diagram.

If that is not in place, the spool valve can go down to far and the groove will tear your o-ring.

That appears to be your problem.

Adjust the TA lever, when forward, so that snap ring should sets on top of the big nut.

The bolt on the TA dump valve is to short.

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I tried with an Oring that I have and witch was not so bad for the job...

It does not work

I have a bit of play with the original O ring, it does not thight on the axle... I have putted back the Oring witch was on the tractor, it thights a bit on the axle and looks "bigger" than the OEM new O ring

I will do a research to find an O ring witch could fit perfectly.

 

The snap ring was installed ;)

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