Jump to content

Recommended Posts

IMG_0904.thumb.jpeg.804177bfa9cd57b9a4dcd95ba58c1c48.jpeg

This picture has a couple years on it but I wanted to show the fork lift mods. A pneumatic tire fork lift is generally priced quite high compared to a cushion tire model. This one only cost a few hundred but it could get stuck too easy off pavement. I bought a set of wheel shells and tires of appropriate capacity. I made a pair of spools that bolt on with the factory wheels up front. The other end of the spool is a disk that matches the disk I welded into the center of the wheel shells. The two disks bolt together. When unloaded the front pneumatics hold the cushion tires about an inch off the ground.  The rears on these machines are very narrow, so they dig in easily in gravel. I pushed the tires off and pushed on a set of wide drivers I got out of a scrap pile behind a local industrial tire company. I pressed them a little short of center, which lets them turn just short of original turning radius. This project is nearly 25 years old now and I haven’t come across anything about it that I would change.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got the mill in place and all put together and wired. The spindle motor was replaced not long back by the seller. These variable speed heads run a little noisy but I was hearing a little too much. It looks like the pulleys are out of alignment a bit so I’ll correct that next.IMG_1046.thumb.jpeg.4ba305d07354cbf0b1e488675e7c5b03.jpegIMG_1047.thumb.jpeg.dbe05cd0a7ed8d8db677c6cc1ed07d47.jpeg

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I took the head apart on the mill to see what mite need some attention before I run it much.

IMG_0370.thumb.jpeg.27fd1a3f3a6f048d3327382570a6af93.jpeg

the driven variable speed pulley has a worn key way. It was repaired at one time with some welding and ……I wish I had gotten to it before any welding. The part is NLA, I could reproduce it if needed, but despite looks it would be fine if the rough side of the key way was cleaned up, the diameter is round and a good fit on the sheave that slides up and down it. No rotation here. This machine ran one little job for many years with no speed change , that was the major cause. I ground the notched side of the key way until it cleaned up 90%. I did not do any additional welding due to the likely material it was made of, 1144 Stressproof steel or similar., not recommended for welding. The few pits will not have significant effect on service and the wall thickness is quite thin, about .030” at the bottom of the slot.IMG_1054.thumb.jpeg.8a5f060844bb456128a12745e8e56821.jpeg

This little cutter grinder is older than I and still cuts steel new one. The chuck holding the vice is magnetic. This took about 15-20 minutes and would of been my choice for the initial repair 
IMG_1056.thumb.jpeg.2d1801e6346e31f154ea93b0574dbf0e.jpeg

The key is bolted into the sheave with a retaining ring in each end to contain the bronze bushing. The bushing was removed and I opened up the slot in it to accept a custom made step key. 
IMG_1058.thumb.jpeg.c54112734c6ac00e58952676c731fa4b.jpeg

I put it all back together, still got to wire the motor back up. 
This work has become so much more enjoyable to me now that I’m not getting paid for it.
Cheers,  Dave

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/7/2023 at 7:16 AM, just Dave said:

I took the head apart on the mill to see what mite need some attention before I run it much.

IMG_0370.thumb.jpeg.27fd1a3f3a6f048d3327382570a6af93.jpeg

the driven variable speed pulley has a worn key way. It was repaired at one time with some welding and ……I wish I had gotten to it before any welding. The part is NLA, I could reproduce it if needed, but despite looks it would be fine if the rough side of the key way was cleaned up, the diameter is round and a good fit on the sheave that slides up and down it. No rotation here. This machine ran one little job for many years with no speed change , that was the major cause. I ground the notched side of the key way until it cleaned up 90%. I did not do any additional welding due to the likely material it was made of, 1144 Stressproof steel or similar., not recommended for welding. The few pits will not have significant effect on service and the wall thickness is quite thin, about .030” at the bottom of the slot.IMG_1054.thumb.jpeg.8a5f060844bb456128a12745e8e56821.jpeg

This little cutter grinder is older than I and still cuts steel new one. The chuck holding the vice is magnetic. This took about 15-20 minutes and would of been my choice for the initial repair 
IMG_1056.thumb.jpeg.2d1801e6346e31f154ea93b0574dbf0e.jpeg

The key is bolted into the sheave with a retaining ring in each end to contain the bronze bushing. The bushing was removed and I opened up the slot in it to accept a custom made step key. 
IMG_1058.thumb.jpeg.c54112734c6ac00e58952676c731fa4b.jpeg

I put it all back together, still got to wire the motor back up. 
This work has become so much more enjoyable to me now that I’m not getting paid for it.
Cheers,  Dave

Kind of ironic that last part...lol

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/9/2023 at 7:04 AM, Rawleigh99 said:

Dave, Would brazing not have been a reasonable way to build up the key way? I know it would not last as long as steel, but it might outlast you!

I imagine that part was made out of a free machining steel with a medium carbon, based on the complexity of the part, there will be quite a bit of machining to make this from bar stock and the duty requirements are basically low HP transmission shaft. In America that means LaSalle StressProof steel 1144. This is almost certainly copied by Eastern manufacturers because it is such a perfect recipe. As I recall it is around 60,000 PSI yield strength and it has a 87% machinability rating. A final note ; it is not recommended for welding. It can be done but not recommended. I have welded anti rotation straps on thousands of newly manufactured pins for heavy equipment per customer prints. I have also seen many anti rotation tabs crack out.
The main reason I prefer to widen key first choice is ;

It is easy to do 

It puts original material bearing the load

The only other part affected by a key widening mod would be the key itself and making the step key is also a very easy job.

Had this been done in the first place there would be no pits, there would be no sign of repair at all. Thank you Rawleigh, for your interest and comments .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/9/2023 at 8:31 AM, hardtail said:

Kind of ironic that last part...lol

I could tell by the filth on this machine it was not owned by a machine lover. The 2HP motor with that half of the variable speed setup was nearly brand new, so I went into the deal knowing someone had been in the head. To me that means what did they screw up……?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

One my Sons’ exspresed an interest in a little tractor I’ve had around for several years, waiting for a resurrection.IMG_3356.thumb.jpeg.dbb212023c3347bc708644a27c5a4b58.jpeg

I jumped at the chance to help him . The little Mustang was a salvage when I drug it home. I oiled the cylinders when I got it and set it in a row.

Nick got it running the first day , engine uncoupled.   That’s me the proud Dad running the Drott

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well he did a little wiring , oil flushing and he was driving around. He’s going to pick up some cylinder seals today, all four the same end gland and piston . 
IMG_1072.thumb.jpeg.6e3c17b29a3e13a97c4b769f0ed8e69d.jpeg

There was a rotten control cable for engaging the drive pumps. We made a new one with some 5/16” stock, cable and a couple tac welds. 
IMG_1069.thumb.jpeg.9a151b6bacf9d21148c457474892f26f.jpeg

He has been doing tons of wheel barrow work on his place, so this fits his needs perfectly . Glad. I saved it

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

These cylinders have a thin nut that pulls the end gland snug up to a retaining ring. A striking wrench is best . If you can dead head the piston to the end gland it will hold it whilst you unscrew the nut but if you have significant leaks that can be impossible so you will have to strike it off. The gland then gets tapped n a bit , retaining ring is removed ,then it all comes out the end.

I bored an old set ring off a pillow block bearing and milled key slots.IMG_1075.thumb.jpeg.ae94bec304b7c3fa41bb40d1b4ca52d2.jpegIMG_1076.thumb.jpeg.290885fca6241218303ede0150d01131.jpeg

Then weld on a short stout handle and four keys 

IMG_1077.thumb.jpeg.795e8b79250b54629659aa106bd4e73e.jpeg

He got the two lifts done so far.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nick took the loader down to his house so he could be in his shop for the next task. The drive pulls well but the loader tubes have a leak down deep. He’s thinking he will need to pull the motor to get to it?     I ordered him a set of hoses and while I was at it I replaced 6 hoses on my Drott.IMG_1080.thumb.jpeg.8cab28768481dd58cf7b3de89573c473.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

71694518012__0D7A05C8-297E-4073-9CA9-664F64997D17.thumb.jpeg.30e98cf4d4b509aa1bcd96a1d2fd16dc.jpeg

He been getting down to the hydraulic tubes, one leaker and a couple of suspects need to be replaced. OMC used JIC so I’m going to make a 37 degree tube flaring tool.

I have several parallel clamps that I made out of key stock, many different sizes. I made them years ago when I was bored at work. I am going to make a small modification to one made from 3/4” stock.IMG_1086.thumb.jpeg.2af69ca68f1bcd639f5ae700e3f0bb9d.jpeg

I clamped a shim between the bars, and tacked stub of round stock on it to make it easy to throw it in a lathe.

IMG_1088.thumb.jpeg.fea467380968f05b730f4cb93997dbc0.jpeg

A min cleanup face cut then a 64th undersized drill then 1/2” drill with a very brisk feed rate to create some gripping texture. Finally , plunge the 37 degree JIC taper. Cut tacks and debur.  I had this little arch and screw in my puller cabinet from another rig. After a little grinding it could slide onto the tube clamp. The screw is very hard and has a cup point like a set screw, so I got the idea to use ball bearings to expand the flair, and with a 3 ball progression it worked great. We are using 316 SS because they did not have 304 SS at the pipe house where I get the good guy deal. So half inch 316 .049 wall. The original tubes were carbon steel, which would be fine is I could find it in the correct size……….the state of metal availability in the middle of the country is dismal but our Yankee ingenuity is keeping us afloat.

IMG_1089.thumb.jpeg.74eff9b1c031e7fef84502bc4b9227d1.jpeg

When things are going down the drain….remember to enjoy the swirl .

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 9/30/2023 at 7:06 AM, Rawleigh99 said:

Very clever!  Can you buy the nuts in stainless steel?

I’m not sure if the ones Nick bought were but yes , all fittings can be had in SS.

I like the SS tube because it seems to move better than carbon steel tube.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

..interesting  stuff   Dave...  Had a day off because of the American ''invasion ''  on the Station...thus catching up with many posts.   Makes me yearn for a good W/S again...Guess by the time I leave the Excavators and set up my humble bits and pieces......including the Colchester lathe   etc......  a five foot ten wooden box might be just as appropriate....:unsure:

Mike

...

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, mike newman said:

..interesting  stuff   Dave...  Had a day off because of the American ''invasion ''  on the Station...thus catching up with many posts.   Makes me yearn for a good W/S again...Guess by the time I leave the Excavators and set up my humble bits and pieces......including the Colchester lathe   etc......  a five foot ten wooden box might be just as appropriate....:unsure:

Mike

...

If I had the open country around me like you do Mike,  I would ride around most days at a moderate speed in something open air style, maybe 2 wheels maybe four, as long as it’s open air .

I have neighbors and rules on all sides so I don’t dig as much as I would like. If I run across the right little excavator with an amazing, quiet, muffler I would be in it several days a week so I could get this plot looking the way. I see it in my mind ….you know, before it’s too late.

Good to hear from you Mike

when things are going down the drain, remember to “Enjoy the Swirl”

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Nick built a new muffler out of some light gauge sq tube

IMG_1123.thumb.jpeg.4c72182a5c9d3d78ce868ab2cbe1f1fa.jpeg

He also had to change the head gaskets after a short run. The little tractor is running well now hauling dirt up a steep drive and rocks down for construction .IMG_0436.thumb.png.302e4a81ff595cd910f1254c7009406c.png The spot he’s working on was home to a beautiful old oak that was in a bad spot, too bad, but a winter’s worth of fire wood for 2025.IMG_0438.thumb.png.c5b4f235287da5a3aab9e8808097d76d.png

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

I have always overloaded wheelbarrows and found the leverage is not that good maneuvering a load, so I built handle I can couple to my smaller trailers. I have found this more useful than I ever expected. Moved out a snow furrow today.IMG_1323.thumb.jpeg.8c52668210190a14a983724faf3512ad.jpegIMG_1325.thumb.jpeg.2be6ed2613956a81bbe6fcbae38040ee.jpegIMG_0525.thumb.png.ceb42f0d34b164c44c889309e4c08af2.png

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Unfortunately, your content contains terms that we do not allow. Please edit your content to remove the highlighted words below.
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...