Amo Posted March 22 Share Posted March 22 Well, there's a lot of knoweldge on here, so Im going to pick some brains. I have a 2016 F-150 pickup with 3.55 ratio, 8.8 inch gears, and electric dif lock. I got a tiny bit of net wrap got on the end of the drive shaft and took the seal out. Didn't know it and rear axle lost all of its oil. Heard a noise, but was thinking it was the front wheel bearing. Anyway the rear axle went. After consulting several mechanics, it was recommended to get a used axle from a salvage yard. Pretty straight forward thing to order, and shouldn't be to difficult as long as you have the right ratio and gear size. Well, $2800 later, have an axle in place. Mechanic drives it and says its good to go. I take it home, and put in 4x4. I hear a binding noise while driving straight. Talk to mechanic and says try on pavement. Well a really loud binding noise. Mechanic drives it and agrees something isn't right. Local salvage yard got the axle off a locater site. They call their supplier and after a bit, they say they changed their inventory numbering system and agree they sent the wrong ratio axle. So they send another one. Put that one on Friday. Took the other one back yesterday and they asked if it was working fine. I hadn't tried it in 4x4 so tried it as I left. Well, it still had a binding noise. Its not super jumpy and mostly does it while turning. Sometimes it will be a bit jerky. It doesn't do it like throwing you out the window like you'd expect. Damaged original axle had 3.55 stamped right on the gear. The one that is currently in there mechanic didn't see a number stamped on it, but he counted teeth and says its correct. The local salvage yard, the mechanic that installed the axle, and another local mechanic all agree something isn't right. We just don't know what it is. One thought it was clutches with the posi lock, but the one mechanic who worked in a Ford dealership till couple of years ago said that the electric lock models don't have the clutch packs. Were all completely baffled on what the issue is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vtfireman85 Posted March 22 Share Posted March 22 No possibility the diff lock is stuck in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amo Posted March 22 Author Share Posted March 22 5 minutes ago, vtfireman85 said: No possibility the diff lock is stuck in? Well I guess that could be a possibility. I didn't use dif lock a lot, but never heard that when I did. Basically having the same noise with both axles. The supplier said they sent the wrong one the first time. I guess if it was locked in on both of them, that could be a possibility. Something that none of us had thought about yet. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
885 Posted March 22 Share Posted March 22 Chassis ears on rear differential and on transfer case it pinpoint noise location. I wonder if running the wrong rear gear and putting it in 4x4 caused damage to the transfer case. If it sometimes grinds when not tin 4x4 then check the front integrated wheel ends (front hubs) those trucks are notorious for having integrated wheel ends lose vacuum supply from the solenoid, or to have low vacuum which will cause them to either partially engage or fully engage and make a grinding noise when turning from the front. You did mention you thought you had a front wheel bearing noise, maybe you had 2 problems at once Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirt_Floor_Poor Posted March 22 Share Posted March 22 I don’t have a truck that new, but I’ve never driven a 4wd pickup that didn’t bind up during a turn on a hard surface with the 4wd engaged. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amo Posted March 22 Author Share Posted March 22 15 minutes ago, Dirt_Floor_Poor said: I don’t have a truck that new, but I’ve never driven a 4wd pickup that didn’t bind up during a turn on a hard surface with the 4wd engaged. All 3 agree there's a wee bit, and we all agree this is more than normal. I'm aware of vacuum lines coming off. Been there done that last year. Replaced both front wheel bearings last fall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howard_P Posted March 22 Share Posted March 22 Is the noise on pavement or off? One thing to check is the actual rolling diameter of your tires. I've had enough variations in same size tires to cause binding. Put a mark on each and make 10 revolutions across a parking lot to see how much variation there is. Put the largest and smallest together on one axle and the middle two on the other to help minimize the difference between the axles. Binding on a hard surface when turning, even hard dirt, is normal as the front axle has to travel further that the rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amo Posted March 22 Author Share Posted March 22 You can hear it turning on dirt. It's not as obvious, but you can hear it. Pavement is worse obviously. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lars (midessa) Posted March 22 Share Posted March 22 I know it’s too late now but, why didn’t you repair the first one instead of switching out? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amo Posted March 22 Author Share Posted March 22 1 hour ago, Lars (midessa) said: I know it’s too late now but, why didn’t you repair the first one instead of switching out? My 2 main mechanics suggested going this route. I asked the one about getting rebuilt one. He said they'd most likely be back ordered till who knows when. Not exactly sure what the reason was for the other guy. I think he thought the odds of a race spinning in the housing might be a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oleman Posted March 22 Share Posted March 22 Also replacing the whole rear end is much cheaper and no precision work required just grunt work, a win-win for everyone, less liability for the shop! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captian Kirk Posted March 22 Share Posted March 22 I've only replaced one rear end in my life and it was on my 81 Bronco. I counted and matched the gears and good to go. With the newer stuff my 07 f350 rear is fully locked. Wrong gear oil makes it jump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardtail Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 I've done a few but the most memorable was outside in Redearth Alberta, January 1982 at -43, started at 8pm, was doing road test at 5am, we have about 8 hours daylight that time of year and had worked all day before and after, no wonder I have arthritic hands Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amo Posted March 23 Author Share Posted March 23 Well, after talking to a few people I that most of it is, I'm used to running it when it's wet, slick, etc. Not dry pavement. Maybe a slight bit paranoid. The guy who did the r&r for me talked to a friend at a tranny shop. Said they had the same deal. Went through tranny, transfer case, etc. Finally put a string around the tires and the front and back had enough difference in tread depth to make it act up on dry pavement. Granted my tires aren't slicks, but I do get a pair at a time, not a set. Doesn't look like much difference on tread depth, but the circumference is quite a bit. Going to go with it I guess and maybe start buying 4 tires at at time. Only $250 a piece 🙄 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirt_Floor_Poor Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 41 minutes ago, Amo said: Well, after talking to a few people I that most of it is, I'm used to running it when it's wet, slick, etc. Not dry pavement. Maybe a slight bit paranoid. The guy who did the r&r for me talked to a friend at a tranny shop. Said they had the same deal. Went through tranny, transfer case, etc. Finally put a string around the tires and the front and back had enough difference in tread depth to make it act up on dry pavement. Granted my tires aren't slicks, but I do get a pair at a time, not a set. Doesn't look like much difference on tread depth, but the circumference is quite a bit. Going to go with it I guess and maybe start buying 4 tires at at time. Only $250 a piece 🙄 I don’t know how the new stuff is, but the front diff and the rear diff is likely not even the same ratio. The front is usually geared faster and is only meant to be used when the surface it is on has “give“. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TN Hillbilly Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 What you are describing sounds like the rear diff is locked. Have you verified that the electronic diff lock/unlock is functioning? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amo Posted March 24 Author Share Posted March 24 45 minutes ago, TN Hillbilly said: What you are describing sounds like the rear diff is locked. Have you verified that the electronic diff lock/unlock is functioning? Had a guy drive it yesterday and he didn't think so Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmallFan Posted March 24 Share Posted March 24 On my Dad's 2012 it has an indicator light that tells you when the rear diff is locked. It unlocks at speeds above 20 MPH. Last summer the truck was acting like you describe, the problem was the 4WD/diff lock switch was bad. After he had it replaced, no more problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amo Posted March 24 Author Share Posted March 24 7 minutes ago, FarmallFan said: On my Dad's 2012 it has an indicator light that tells you when the rear diff is locked. It unlocks at speeds above 20 MPH. Last summer the truck was acting like you describe, the problem was the 4WD/diff lock switch was bad. After he had it replaced, no more problems. Interesting. The guy who drove it yesterday and checked the dif lock is a past Ford dealership mechanic who started his own shop. According to him (and he could be wrong) they changed and went to electric dif lock in 14 or 15 maybe 🤷🏻♂️. This is a 16 and no indicator light. When this guy drove it yesterday, he pulled the knob out to lock it in, but it 2wd and turned in a circle. Then did a circle with it pushed in. It turned better when it was turned in. So he felt it was functioning properly. Funny thing is we got 3" of snow last night and I was just out in the pasture (dirt) checking cows. Had it in 4x4. Made a turn and had the binding noise. Probably 5 MPH. Might have to look into that. Surely a switch is cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmallFan Posted March 24 Share Posted March 24 On my Dad's pushing in on the switch turns off the diff. A friend of my mine is also a former Ford dealership mechanic and he told me that you need the Ford diagnostic software to properly diagnose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
885 Posted March 24 Share Posted March 24 8 hours ago, Amo said: Well, after talking to a few people I that most of it is, I'm used to running it when it's wet, slick, etc. Not dry pavement. Maybe a slight bit paranoid. The guy who did the r&r for me talked to a friend at a tranny shop. Said they had the same deal. Went through tranny, transfer case, etc. Finally put a string around the tires and the front and back had enough difference in tread depth to make it act up on dry pavement. Granted my tires aren't slicks, but I do get a pair at a time, not a set. Doesn't look like much difference on tread depth, but the circumference is quite a bit. Going to go with it I guess and maybe start buying 4 tires at at time. Only $250 a piece 🙄 I doubt tires are the cause, especially if they were the same tires with the old diff. The noise didn't happen until you put it in 4x4 with the wrong ratio rear end installed, correct? And now the noise happens with the correct ratio diff. I bet the transfer case has a broken tooth on the chain, gear, planetary, something. Pull a fluid sample from the transfer case and look for metal. Depending on transfer case design the chain may turn at all times. And since the ford has front integrated wheel ends (hubs) I bet the chain in the transfer case is always turning so you are always hearing the noise, quieter when there is no power transmission to the front wheels, and louder when power is being sent to the front wheels But I'm not super familiar with the ford system Take the truck to a shop that has chassis ears so they can try to pinpoint the actual area the sound is coming from to get some direction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amo Posted March 24 Author Share Posted March 24 1 hour ago, FarmallFan said: On my Dad's pushing in on the switch turns off the diff. A friend of my mine is also a former Ford dealership mechanic and he told me that you need the Ford diagnostic software to properly diagnose. This one works the same. Pull out on/in off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amo Posted March 24 Author Share Posted March 24 22 minutes ago, 885 said: I doubt tires are the cause, especially if they were the same tires with the old diff. The noise didn't happen until you put it in 4x4 with the wrong ratio rear end installed, correct? And now the noise happens with the correct ratio diff. I bet the transfer case has a broken tooth on the chain, gear, planetary, something. Pull a fluid sample from the transfer case and look for metal. Depending on transfer case design the chain may turn at all times. And since the ford has front integrated wheel ends (hubs) I bet the chain in the transfer case is always turning so you are always hearing the noise, quieter when there is no power transmission to the front wheels, and louder when power is being sent to the front wheels But I'm not super familiar with the ford system Take the truck to a shop that has chassis ears so they can try to pinpoint the actual area the sound is coming from to get some direction. Yes transfer case run continuously. Only thing that engages the 4x4 is when the vacuum is taken away from the hubs. Sure wouldn't hurt to check the transfer case fluid. I kinda questioned the tires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vtfireman85 Posted March 24 Share Posted March 24 I am not there hearing your noise, but your story makes me think of an issue I chased around and around sounded like some serious driveline bearing failure, the sound would change between 4wd and 2, all this following a transmission removal and reinstallation. As it turned out i had the TCase linkage installed on the wrong side of the shifter linkage and it was touching a little sheet metal bracket that held wiring. Once i removed the linkage and flipped it around the noise went completely away, but I drove myself nuts for about 2 days. it makes me wonder if you don’t have something similar going on. Harmonics will drive you crazy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nomorejohndeere Posted March 24 Share Posted March 24 does it make the noise if you remove the front driveshaft? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.